Tired of streetwear, male wardrobe designers are now betting on tailored
pieces. Virgil Abloh, the benchmark designer of street style, has himself
revised his copy for the autumn winter 2020/2021 season and has proposed
silhouettes in suits, both for his own label, Off-White, and for the Louis
Vuitton men’s line. But the streetwear wardrobe does not disappear and
instead opens up new avenues for tailoring, whether it be accessories or
cut, its nonchalant accents popularize the three-piece suit and pinch
pants.
The streetwear approach is not the only one to renew shirts and tailored
jackets. From “Guccian” fantasy to a totally colourful look, FashionUnited
takes examins the striking trends that are refreshing the world of men’s
suits.
Terracotta
Sand and earthy hues coloured a large part of the autumn winter 2020/21
men’s shows. Olivier Rousteing, artistic director of Balmain, bet on the
nuances of the Sahara and delivered a fluid collection.
Touch of madness
The zany fantasy driven by the house of Gucci extends to men’s suits.
From discreet stylistic punctuations to total looks, it humorously renews
men’s tailoring. An exercise in style taken up by Kim Jones, artistic
director of Dior’s men’s lines, who drew inspiration from decadent English
chic to sprinkle his collection with long paisley shirts, pearl gloves and
zipped berets.
Colour explosion
Forget the tennis stripes on an anthracite background, for autumn winter
2020/21, the suit is worn in monochrome, in bright, theatrical tones. The
exercise in style has been notably taken up by the houses Ami Paris and
Berluti.
Tailored streetwear
The lexical field of streetwear is rethinking the lexical field of men’s
suits. Sliding details, elasticated, utilitarian, loose fit, wearing a
banana bag across the chest – anything goes. Virgil Abloh said: “The suit,
symbol of convention, commerce and success is about to leave its comfort
zone.”
All Leather
Leather and its ersatz structure gives the men’s suits a nonchalant or
adventurous spirit. The Berluti autumn winter 2020/21 show with its
patinated leathers is an ode to the material.
Tailored workwear
Workwear pieces have long since proven their potential as timeless
classics. Flap or gusset pockets, sturdy materials, boxy cuts – classics of
the twist men’s suits.
Main article image: Hermès AW20/21 Backstage
This article was originally written for FashionUnited.fr before being translated to English
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