Valentino opted for utility chic during its AW15 men’s presentation in Paris on
Thursday. Inspired by images of the Ballet Russes in Paris and the Beat
generation in San Francisco, their ideas were translated by Australian
artist Esther Stewart, whose signature geometric patterns were featured on
tailored overcoats, parkas, bomber jackets and knitwear. Even their
signature camouflage, pale and deconstructed in a grey tones, looked fresh
and new.
Raf Simons presented a directional collection, with graffiti lab coats
and flared trousers as a new way of dressing next season. It was 70s
rockstar, with hints of rebelling youth with a mix of sportswear thrown in.
The graffiti prints found themselves on a long and lean silhouette, such as
sleeveless, raw edged lab coats, and worn with knitted trousers that seamed
to flare at the end. Colours included white with flashes of bright yellow
and red alongside browns and black. Simons’ tailoring was remixed with
outerwear that never steers far from his futurist path.
British designer Christopher Nemeth served as the inspiration for the
AW15 Louis Vuitton collection. Nemeth’s codes for the deconstruction trend in the
eighties were seen in original prints such as hand-drawn rope-like patterns
crafted onto outerwear, trousers and knits. Denim came needle-punched and
was teamed with luxurious indigo cashmeres and outdoors parkas. Sport,
luxury and travel were at the heart of this collection.
Rick Owens may or may not have anticipated that a little male nudity can
send shockwaves to the public. When a woman’s nipple is exposed on a
catwalk nobody bats an eyelid, but barely a glimpse of a man’s genitalia
and we are reduced to oohs, ahhs, and a media storm of commentary. What was
mostly a conservative show for Owens, with double breasted coats in
leather, suede and canvas, it was the toga gowns and curved hemlines that
were Owens’ more challenging silhouettes. When asked why he chose to expose
the models, Owens stated: “Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture, it
packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something
about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s
a corporate world!
Dries van Noten took Historical references and subtle Eastern elements to
present his collection, which always resonates with a luxurious nomadic
spirit. Navy and khaki were the primary colours with key styles including
overcoats and shirts were embellished with silver ornaments and quilted
blazers warn apron-like kilts over trousers highlighted. Traditional coats
and blazers were worn inside out to parade the delicate quilted linings in
tricolour satin.
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