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工作中经常会遇到Excel报表中的金额很大，导致不易于识别，是否想过让这些长长的数字转换为以万元为单位表示，报表就会立刻清晰易读了。所以如何在Excel表格中把数字转换为万元单位呢？
现在我教大家在Excel表格中把数字转为万元的一种方法，叫做直接设置法。
将数字转换为万元单位。在空白单元格里输入数字10000并且复制它，然后选择原来的数字单元格，在原来的数字单元格点击鼠标右键，点击【选择性粘贴】，选择【除】，然后点击【确定】：
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设置小数位数。选定这些数字单元格，在数字单元格上点鼠标右键，找到【单元格格式设置】：
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点击【数字】标签【数值】，在【小数位数】处设定为2，然后点击【确定】：
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那么，在Excel表格技巧当中，Excel把数字改为万元的方法，是不是很简单呢，你学会了吗？
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When it comes to maintaining a clean and safe swimming pool, the choice between chlorine tablets and filter balls is essential. Both options offer distinct advantages, and understanding their benefits can help you make an informed decision that best suits your pool care needs. In this article, we will explore these two popular pool maintenance solutions and help you determine which is the best choice for your swimming environment.
Chlorine tablets are a popular choice for pool sanitation due to their effectiveness in keeping water clean and free from harmful bacteria. These tablets are typically made from trichloroisocyanuric acid (TCCA) or dichlor, both of which dissolve slowly in water, releasing chlorine over time. This gradual release means that you don’t have to add chlorine to your pool frequently, making chlorine tablets a convenient option for pool owners.
One of the key advantages of using cheap but good chlorine tablets is their cost-effectiveness. When purchased in bulk, you can find wholesale chlorine tablets at competitive prices, making it easier to keep your pool maintained without breaking the bank. This affordability does not come at the expense of quality; even budget-friendly options effectively eliminate bacteria and algae, ensuring that your pool remains a safe environment for swimming.
Chlorine tablets also provide a steady supply of chlorine, which is crucial for maintaining balanced water chemistry. Regularly monitoring your pool’s chlorine levels ensures that they remain within the recommended range, preventing issues like algae blooms or cloudy water. With the right dosage, chlorine tablets can significantly enhance your pool’s water quality.
On the other hand, best pool filter balls have gained popularity among pool owners looking for an alternative to traditional filter media like sand and cartridge filters. These lightweight, eco-friendly filter balls are designed to provide superior filtration, capturing even the tiniest particles that standard filters might miss. By replacing sand or cartridges with filter balls, you can improve your pool’s clarity and cleanliness.
One significant advantage of using filter balls is their durability. Unlike sand, which can degrade over time and require replacement, filter balls can last several years with proper care. This longevity means less frequent maintenance and lower long-term costs. Additionally, filter balls are easier to clean and maintain than traditional filter media, as they can be rinsed off and reused, making them a practical choice for busy pool owners.
Furthermore, filter balls are designed to be more efficient, reducing energy consumption and helping you save on operational costs. With enhanced filtration capabilities, your pool’s circulation system can work more effectively, which may reduce the overall strain on your pool equipment.
When comparing chlorine tablets and filter balls, it’s essential to consider the specific needs of your pool. If your primary concern is effective sanitation, chlorine tablets are likely the way to go. Their ability to maintain consistent chlorine levels makes them ideal for pool owners who want a reliable method for keeping water clean.
Conversely, if you are more focused on filtration and water clarity, filter balls may be the better choice. Their advanced filtration technology can help reduce the number of contaminants in your pool, leading to cleaner and clearer water. By enhancing the efficiency of your pool’s filtration system, filter balls can complement the sanitation provided by chlorine tablets, creating a comprehensive maintenance strategy.
Many pool owners choose to use both products in tandem. By using chlorine tablets to ensure proper sanitation and filter balls for enhanced filtration, you can achieve optimal water quality. This combination allows you to leverage the strengths of each product, ensuring that your pool remains safe, clean, and inviting.
Deciding between chlorine tablets and filter balls ultimately depends on your pool’s specific requirements and your personal preferences. If you are looking for a cost-effective, easy-to-use option for maintaining your pool’s sanitation, buy chlorine tablets in bulk to maximize savings. Ensure you select quality products that provide consistent results to keep your pool water safe and enjoyable.
On the other hand, if you want to improve your pool’s filtration system, consider incorporating filter balls into your maintenance routine. Their superior filtration capabilities can help keep your pool water clear and free from debris, contributing to an overall better swimming experience.
In conclusion, both chlorine tablets and filter balls serve critical roles in pool maintenance. By understanding their unique advantages and considering your pool’s needs, you can make an informed choice that enhances your swimming environment. Whether you opt for the reliable sanitation of chlorine tablets or the advanced filtration offered by filter balls, both options can contribute to a cleaner, safer pool experience.
For pool owners looking for the best combination of convenience, effectiveness, and cost, using chlorine tablets for pools alongside best pool filter balls is an excellent strategy. With proper care and maintenance, you can enjoy crystal-clear water while ensuring the safety and health of all who swim in your pool. By selecting quality products and maintaining a consistent maintenance routine, you’ll create a beautiful and inviting swimming area for your family and friends to enjoy all year round.
Pool tile at the waterline is a protective and decorative element on in-ground pools. If your pool tile has begun to crack and crumble, repair it! There are many different options when it comes to repairing or replacing the tiling around your pool. This article shows you the DIY way to repair and rejuvenate your pool tile.
Starting at the bottom of the materials list may be best. If you have just a few pieces that fell off, and you have the pieces, you’re fine. But if you have more than a few inches of tile to replace, using “sheet tile” is easier and gives a better result.
Where can you find the original pool tile used by your pool builder? The first place to ask is your pool builder, if they are still around. Snap a photo and email it to them if they need more detail other than color, style and when the pool was built.
The second best place to look are local pool stores, which can order from a local pool supply distributor or from another source. Again, a picture or tile sample is most useful. You can also call ceramic tile stores in your area to see if they carry any “frost-free” swimming pool tiles. Next, you can search online. There are some websites with lots of pool tile catalogs you can look through.
If you can’t locate the tile, you could use a close match tile, especially for small repairs, maybe on areas you can’t see from the house! Buy the same color, and close to the same size and shape, if it’s mosaic tile.
The surface that you reapply tile to may need some work. In the top image, we see a broken out area that was patched with some hydraulic cement to bring the surface up to level with the surrounding tile bed. If there are sizable cracks, enlarge them and remove any loose material with a disk grinder or chisel, and fill them with hydraulic cement (if deeper than 1 inch) or EZ Patch #1 (less than 1 inch). Fill in any holes to create a flat, even surface for the new tile. Allow any patches to dry for 24-48 hours before continuing.
Use the chisel or a small, sharp flathead to remove any pieces of grout still stuck to the surface and to create a good ledge. This bottom edge, or the notch in the pool plaster, is useful when hanging new tile. If the surface has been exposed for some time, it may be good to clean it before retiling. A degreaser such as TSP or Simple Green can be used for cleaning to improve the bond of the tile cement.
If there are large cracks in the beam (the area of the pool wall behind the tile), stop! This is called beam damage and should be opened up and filled with hydraulic cement, pushing the cement as far as possible into the crack to reduce the possibility that your tile will fall off too soon. Pay attention to large cracks in the beam, as these are likely the cause of the tile falling off.
Such cracks are often caused by a faulty expansion joint, allowing the pool and pool deck to touch during expansion and contraction. As they both expand, the deck wins, pushing into the pool wall. In cases of active beam damage, expect a tile repair to only last a year or two unless the larger issues are dealt with. In worst cases, this involves removing the coping stones, replacing the top portion of the wall, and restoring the expansion joint between the pool wall and pool deck.
During a cool part of the day, use pool water or a hose to wet the area to be repaired thoroughly. If the surface is hot and dry, it will suck the moisture out of the setting bed of mortar. Mix up small batches of EZ Patch, 1 cup at a time, with water and the included bonding additive. Mix until a peanut butter consistency is reached. Spread it onto the moist tile bed with a 1/4-inch V-notched trowel, raking the bed to create 1/4″ rows or furrows of the EZ Patch tile repair mix.
Quickly position your sheet tile and press it firmly and evenly into the bed of pool mortar. Some will squeeze through the tiles and out the sides. Be sure to press on all areas or pieces of the tile and that the tile remains level and plumb. Mosaics need some extra finesse to align and space the pieces correctly.
If the mix is too wet, or too dry, or the bed too thin, the tile may slowly fall off. After placing the tile, stay with it for a few minutes to be sure it’s not sliding. Then keep an eye on it as you move on to the next tile section. EZ Patch Fast Set gives you only 5-10 minutes to work with the mix. Mixing small batches, progressing foot by foot, is most efficient.
After your tile has been set, gently wipe away large hunks of excess tile mix, but avoid cleaning or touching the tiles too much for 24 hours.
After your tiles have set up for 24 hours or so, you can grout in between the tile pieces. EZ Patch #4 is an excellent waterproof pool tile grout. Again, mix up small batches of 1 cup or less to the peanut butter consistency. Use a sponge, grout spreader, or a piece of stiff cardboard to force the grout into the spaces between tiles and the space above the tile. EZ Patch 4 also makes an excellent material to parge the area where the tile meets the skimmers.
After it has set up for 10-15 minutes, use some water and gentle rubbing to clean up the extra grout that smeared onto the tiles. Then, after 24 hours, you can use a stiff brush or scrubber to remove the haze and polish the tiles. Finally, after the grout has dried for a few hours, you can begin to fill the pool level again.
After the grout has set up for about an hour, you can gently give it an initial cleaning with a wet sponge or small towel. Allow the tile grout to set up overnight, and you can then give it a final cleanup with a sponge or towel, buffing to remove the white haze. Any “glops” that fall in the pool can just be brushed off the surface. If they harden onto the surface, a chisel or screwdriver will pop them off easily.
The hardest part about making small pool tile repairs may be finding the replacement tile. Once that’s done, the rest is easy breezy.
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Digital pool heaters have come a long way in the past few years. Self-diagnostics and digital readouts have made life simple for repair technicians. Low flow? The heater tells you. Heater too hot? The heater tells you. Pool too hot? The heater tells you. Filter dirty? The heater tells you. There’s not much to troubleshoot, but what about the things the heater can’t tell you? Here are some frequently asked questions about digital pool heaters that are NOT in the book.
Digital pool heaters can leak from several places. Or it could not be leaking at all; it could be just condensation. If the pool water is cold and the heater has just been fired up, then the heater may emit heater rain. Heater rain is condensation that drips water down on the burner tray from the heat exchanger. This means lots of sizzling and noise, but rarely enough moisture to leak water out from the bottom of the heater, like a leak in the system would.
Now, if there is water pouring, or leaking from the heat exchanger, then the internal components are failing and you need immediate repairs. The most common cause of a leaking pool heater is the heat exchanger. Most heat exchangers are made of copper, and copper is soft and susceptible to poor water conditions. Low pH, improperly plumbed chlorinator or excessive salt can all reduce the life of a heat exchanger. If the heat exchanger is OK, then it could be the headers, or header gaskets. Whatever the cause, the heater will need to be disassembled in order to properly diagnose and find the problem.
If it looks like the heater has no power, then you need to confirm that. Is there anything on the display panel? Do the indicator lights come on? If the answer is no, then you need to check the voltage.
Regular voltage of 120 or 240 volts is delivered to the heater and wired to the heater transformer that reduces (or transforms) the current to 25 volts. This electricity is sent to an electronic switching device called the IID (intermittent ignition device), sometimes called the ignition control. This acts as a pathway or distributer to and from the control circuit.
From here, the current flows through the safety and control circuit. The transformer is the key here. Check the line voltage going into the transformer. It needs to be either 120V or 240V, depending on how it was originally wired. You will need a multi or voltage meter to check the voltage accurately. Then, if you have the voltage going to the transformer, and no voltage leaving the transformer, then it’s probably the transformer that needs replacing.
If there is no voltage going to the transformer, then check the breakers, the pump switch or the heater power supply. If you have power to the transformer and power leaving the transformer, but still no lights or display, then check the IID, or control module.
This can mean several things. The most common cause is flow, a dirty basket, or clogged or dirty filter. A pool heater is an “open boiler” system, meaning the heater is cooled by the water flowing through the heater. All pool heaters have a pressure switch or flow switch that measures the flow rate of water pumped into the heater. If there is not enough water flowing through the heater, it will not operate, which is a bit of self-preservation on your heater’s part. If the filter and baskets are clean and water flow and filter pressure are normal, then the problem usually is in the safety or control circuit.
Some heaters have a bypass assembly, where some of the water can be bypassed by means of a valve in between the filter and heater. If open too much, this valve can direct most of the water around the heater, causing the pressure switch to open and prevent heater firing. Bypass valves should be set with a use of a Pete’s Plug thermometer to create optimum temperature rise.
Sometimes, a pool heater will make noise. Heater noise can be caused by several different things. It’s usually attributed to flow, meaning if the heater is not getting enough water, the water can get hot and begin to boil, causing a banging sound. Sometimes, that sound is loud. It can be knocking, banging so loud, that you can hear it across the yard. Most heaters have an internal bypass that regulates the flow of the pool water to the heat exchanger. If that bypass fails, then not enough water will flow through the heat exchanger, and the water will get hot and begin to boil within the heat exchanger. That makes noise.
Another cause can be a calcium or lime buildup in the exchanger. If there is a water chemistry problem, then calcium will build up inside the exchanger. The buildup can be so much that it will close off the tubes of the heat exchanger with calcium deposits. If that is the case, the tubes can be cleaned with a wire brush and a drill.
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Exposed to the outside air on all sides except for the floor, above ground pools can lose heat more easily than in-ground pools. If you battle this heat loss with an electric or gas heater, heating the pool comes at a great expense. There is, however, an affordable solution — a solar powered pool heater. Above ground solar pool heaters require more room than a compact gas or electric unit. However, with good installation and placement, solar heater panels are just as out of sight as any other heater. Plus, they pay for themselves with the savings in heating expenses!
The installation of an above ground solar pool heater involves three steps:
The rack is very useful in a solar pool heater application. Sure, you could just lay the panels on the ground, but they will last longer and absorb more heat when mounted on a triangular rack, built at an angle to the sun. Mounting panels on a roof may be too much vertical lift for smaller above ground pool pumps.
A solar panel rack is a simple contraption that does several things:
The rack is often something that is not included with the purchase of solar panels, which is why most installations are custom-built by the owner or a professional installer. When it comes to the construction of the rack, it is really nothing more than a wedge that props up the panels to give them a pitch of about 35 degrees off the ground.
You can use pressure treated two-by-fours to build the frame, topped with 4×8 plywood sheets. Or, you can build a frame with angle iron or strut channel, bolted together — a more expensive option. Painting the rack or platform black can help protect the wood and help to blend it visually. And will add a bit more absorption of the solar energy.
If you have a hillside not far from the equipment, you could build a flat rack, position it on the hillside, and run pipe across the yard, or bury the pipe. A flat rack can also be made easily with 4- or 8-foot plywood, pitched at 35 degrees.
Once the solar rack has been built, secure it to the ground to keep the solar panel installation from collapsing in high winds. Long rebar pieces, bent at the top is a good method to secure the rack to the ground.
As you assemble the solar panels and stretch them across the rack, take care to properly connect the panel segments snugly together. Use the directions and materials included with your solar panels to secure the solar panels to the rack.
Straps and screws are commonly included with most systems to secure panels to a roof or rack. You can use pipe clamps, from any hardware or home store. I’ve seen adhesives like Liquid Nails used to further secure the solar panels to the solar rack, but not if you plan to store your solar panels inside during the winter.
Once the panels have been secured to the solar rack we’re ready for plumbing!
The plumbing is just as simple as any of the other steps in the installation. That being said, ask yourself two questions before connecting the pipes coming out of your filter to the solar heater panels.
1. Do you want to install a valve to be able to bypass the solar panels?
2. Do you want to automate this process with a solar controller?
A bypass valve, either two two-way valves or one three-way valve, will allow you to control the speed through the panels (slower speed is generally better, under 10 gpm), and allow you to bypass the panels at night, or when it’s not sunny. This is important, because when the panels are cooler than the water, running your pool water through the panels will cause your pool water to lose heat! So in general, you should always install a bypass valve to give you the options of solar-on and solar-off.
An optional but recommended upgrade, a solar controller includes a bypass valve and an automatic valve-turner device. The panel has a thermostat knob, and when conditions are right, the sensors will signal the controller to open the bypass valve and send water through the solar panels. When conditions are poor for solar heat, the bypass valve is automatically closed. Solar controllers create optimum solar absorption, and I highly recommend them for all serious solar pool systems.
For those that are looking for the easiest possible install, again, you could just lay the panels right on the ground on the sunny side of the pool. You do have the option to forgo a solar rack and a diverter valve or controller. Especially if you run your pump only during the sunny hours of the day.
One other comment, and answer to the question “How many solar panels do I need?”. Solar pool heaters are modular, and the more panels you have, the more square footage of sun absorbing panels, the greater the heat transfer.
With one 4-inch by 20-inch panel, you can probably realize 5-10 degrees temperature rise on most above ground pools. Double the panels, and you’ll get double the heat! Other factors come into play too, like amount of hours of full sun, position of panels, amount of wind and whether you use a pool cover or solar blanket.
Once everything is all installed, check the system for leaks, give the panels the initial few minutes to warm up, and you’re ready to begin heating your pool! Remember to keep your pool covered at night to minimize heat loss!
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Whether you’re a brand new pool owner or seasoned pro, chances are you have heard about chlorine. The powerful water sanitizer is synonymous with pools and swimming, but have you heard about its cousin, bromine? This lesser known sanitizer is similar to chlorine, but with a few key differences. In this post, we will discuss the chlorine vs. bromine debate, and help you decide which sanitizer is best for your pool or spa!
First things first, let’s cover the basics. Chlorine and bromine are sanitizers that help keep your pool or spa water clean and safe. Both chlorine and bromine come in tablet and granular form, while chlorine is also available in liquid form.
Understanding how each sanitizer works is key to deciding which one is the best option for your pool or spa. While both chlorine and bromine clean your pool, they do so in different ways. Let’s dive into the differences between chlorine and bromine, and discuss the unique role of each sanitizer.
As many pool owners know, chlorine is what is known as an oxidizing sanitizer. When chlorine is added to your pool water, it immediately zeroes in on contaminants and neutralizes them through oxidation. During this process, chlorine molecules penetrate the contaminant and strip the electron particles, breaking down the contaminant. Following the oxidation process, waste byproducts called chloramines are leftover.
Chloramines create the unpleasant, overwhelming chemical smell and skin irritation commonly associated with chlorine. The production of chloramines is the biggest inconvenience when using a chlorine sanitizer. Many people assume the intense smell of chlorine means their pool is clean, but in reality, it means the opposite. As chloramines build up over time, they decrease the amount of Free Available Chlorine — the active, sanitizing molecules — and leave your water unprotected. The only way to clear the chloramines is to shock your pool, also known as reaching breakpoint chlorination. When your pool hits breakpoint chlorination, the chlorine levels exceed the contaminant or oxidant demand, and Free Available Chlorine starts to increase.
Chlorine is available in tablets — the most common form — sticks, and granules. Tablets and sticks work well in floating dispensers, and in-line or off-line chlorinators. Granular chlorine needs to be pre-dissolved in a bucket of water before being dispersed throughout the pool.
Ideal Chlorine Levels:
While chlorine oxidizes contaminants to get rid of them, bromine eliminates contaminants through ionization. During ionization, bromine particles attack and break apart the pollutant molecules. But unlike the ineffective and frustrating chloramines left over after chlorine oxidation, bromine produces bromamine molecules that continue to sanitize the water after ionization. Chlorine-free pool shock will reactivate the bromamine molecules, returning them to their full strength.
Bromine is more limited than chlorine regarding the forms it comes in and how it’s distributed in your pool. Bromine is only available in tablet and granular form, and works best in a floating dispenser. Because bromine tablets take longer to dissolve than chlorine tablets, they don’t work well in in-line or off-line chlorinators.
Due to its slow-dissolving nature, bromine takes longer to build up a residual in the water, and is difficult to raise quickly if the level drops. A bromine booster is a great product to use if your bromine levels drop suddenly or you need to raise them quickly. Bromine boosters instantly build a bromine residual in your pool or spa.
Ideal Bromine Levels:
The answer to which sanitizer is best depends on whether you’re sanitizing an indoor or outdoor spa or pool. Chlorine and bromine are both effective sanitizers, but each one has its own optimal working conditions, and its own pros and cons.
Below are a few commonly asked questions regarding caring for a bromine pool and what type of pool it is best suited for.
You can shock a bromine pool with non-chlorine shock or chlorine shock. Shocking a bromine pool oxidizes contaminants and creates bromamines, which aren’t harmful. Refer to the shock dosing instructions before adding shock to your bromine pool. The standard dose for a chlorine pool is typically sufficient for a bromine pool.
While bromine can be used in outdoor pools, we don’t recommend it because bromine is not compatible with Cyanuric Acid (CYA). CYA protects chlorine molecules from the sun and prevents evaporation. Therefore, Bromine is at a high risk for evaporation when used in outdoor pools.
Use a bromine sanitizer for indoor pools that receive little sunlight. Bromamines, the leftover bromine particles, do not “gas-off” the surface of the water like chloramines. Chloramines are potentially harmful to metal structures like pool ladders, furniture, and any other metal when trapped indoors. Outdoor pools are better suited for handling chloramines because of the abundant airflow.
Perhaps the most important part of having a chlorine or bromine-based pool is knowing what to do if you want to switch sanitizers. Switching from chlorine to bromine is simple, while switching from bromine to chlorine is a laborious process.
To switch from chlorine to bromine, simply stop using chlorine tablets, and begin using bromine tablets! Replace your chlorine floater or in/off-line chlorinator to prevent any chlorine residue from coming into contact with the bromine.
Changing your pool’s sanitizer from bromine to chlorine is not quite as simple. Making this change requires a full pool drain to remove the build-up of bromine ions in the water — which will continue to convert added chlorine into bromine. Even when bromine levels are zero, there are still ions present, which is why draining is necessary. As with switching from chlorine to bromine, replace your existing floating chlorinator with a new one to avoid cross contamination.
There you have it — the ultimate guide for the chlorine vs. bromine sanitizer debate! Each sanitizer plays an important role in pool and spa care, and neither one is “better” than the other. The best sanitizer is the one that works for you and your pool.
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Perfect as my little one’s first daycare bag.
Little Panda introduces you to his friends!
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• Capacity : minimum 676 oz / 20 l
• Bag not compatible with A4 size.
• Age range : 1 to 4 years.
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A classy and cute companion that he will show off with pride! For the beginning of the school year, Petit-Panda has invited his friends.
• Made of cotton and polyester, soft and fluffy, its fur is pleasant to the touch.
• This 10×9.5×4″ / 26.5x24x10.5cm comfort bag has adjustable padded straps.
• Bag not compatible with A4 size.
• This Plush Bag is suitable for children over 24 months.
• This Backpack Plush Nursery consists of several zipped pockets in which your child will be able to put the essentials for a leisure outing or for a day in the nursery, like his snack, his toys, and even his little secrets…
• This Plush Bag is very soft with a fine fur.
• It is not only a plush bag, it is a companion to cuddle. The Plush Backpack, my cute and very soft friend. To take everywhere.
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Wind, snow and ice and will soon be on its way, and for an aboveground pool, this can be particularly worrisome. Mistakes with any of these three and your pool or pool cover can suffer serious damage.
We’ve talked about the winter cover accessories for inground pools here, and today we turn our lens on above ground pool cover accessories, all designed to save you time, money, and worry.
In a perfect world, every above ground winter cover would be dry and clean, but in the real world, Mother Nature and Old Man Winter will make a mess of the cover in just a few weeks. Two essential cleaning accessories for above ground pool covers are leaf rakes and leaf catchers.
Cleaning your pool cover regularly protects your cover and your pool water. A small hole in a winter cover can contaminate the pool water, or rip into a much larger hole. And removing the worms, berries, bugs and nuts that attract birds and squirrels, protects your cover from sharp beaks and claws.
A leaf rake is a bag shaped skimmer net that attaches to any pool pole. Push or pull the pool Leaf Rake gently across the pool cover to scoop up leaves, twigs and other debris. Oversized bag holds large amounts of leaves to quickly dredge any solid cover efficiently.
An easier method for sure – if you have large trees around the pool, spread a leaf net cover over top of your winter cover until all of the leaves have dropped. Then remove all of the leaves from the pool cover at once, and easily take the bundle of leaves to the curb or drag-off into the woods.
Keeping water pumped off of your pool cover is important to prevent the cover from tearing – just 100 gallons of water weighs over 750 lbs, stressing the walls and the edges of your winter cover. And when rainwater freezes solid, sharp edges can form while the massive ice sheet thaws, which could puncture some pool covers. Cover pumps are a cover accessory that nearly all above ground pools will need.
Electric submersible pumps, manual or automatic, allow you to easily remove rain water and snow melt from the pool cover. Just attach a garden hose, and plug it in. Manual pumps should be unplugged when done, but automatic cover pumps will safely turn themselves on and off as needed.
We also have gravity-fed, siphon pool cover pumps, that work great with above ground pools, such as the siphon pump cover drain, permanently installed into an above ground pool cover, to drain out of the wall return.
Snow? It’s best to leave it alone, to avoid damaging the pool cover with a sharp snow shovel, but if it gets over 12″ deep, you can either carefully use a plastic shovel to take off the top 6 inches, or spray the snow with warm water, and then pump off with your cover pump.
High winds can wreak havoc on an above ground pool winter cover, tearing and ripping the edges as heavy winds get up underneath. In addition to the cover cable and winch used on above ground covers, there are a number of cover accessories made specifically to combat high winds.
This is like a giant roll of Saran Wrap™ – only much stronger! Once your above ground pool cover is installed, wrap around the pool 3 or 4 times to block wind and prevent your cover from rubbing on the top rail of your pool. A reusable cover seal pool cover wrap can be rolled back up on the spool in spring.
Pool cover clips hold your pool cover to the top rail of your above ground pool, to help stop winds from getting under the cover. Use 2 cover clips for each vertical upright in your pool (between wall panels) after tightening your cover cable. Sold in 5, 10, 20, and 30 packs for all pool sizes.
Vinyl bags that you fill with water and hang on the cover cable, or they can also lay up against the pool wall, on the inside of the pool cover. Reusable for years and years, pool cover wall bags are the classier option to hanging milk jugs half-filled with water!
This solid center disk attaches to 5 spots around the pool edge by use of thick bungee cords and heavy hooks. The web holds covers in place during high winds, and Spider Cover Saver also helps keep air pillows from drifting to the side of the pool.
Not a friend of above ground pools, ice expands nearly 10%, putting pressure on pool walls and skimmers. Of course, there are above ground winter accessories to help you deal with the damaging effects of winter pool ice.
Place an air pillow in your pool before you button up the pool cover. The pressure of the pool cover pushes air pillows down into the water, preventing a continuous ice sheet from forming across the pool, which can damage pool walls and skimmers. Use more than one pool pillow for larger above ground pools.
Dual purpose Gizmo™ like device plugs your skimmer line tightly, and the raised plastic cylinder absorbs ice expansion from water inside the skimmer, which can quickly crack it into pieces. Reusable and very durable, threaded Skimmer Guard screws right into any above ground pool skimmer.
Works like a Lid’l Seal™ or the Aquador™, with the big exception that you don’t need to replace your skimmer faceplate. Just push it into the front of your skimmer, and Skimmer Plug makes a water tight seal, keeping water out of the skimmer, all winter long. No need to lower the water to winterize!
Old Man Winter and Mother Nature will be certain to throw a lot of weather at your swimming pool during the off-season. Fight back and protect your pool with these smart above ground pool cover accessories to prevent damage from debris, water, wind, and ice!
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