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If you’ve ever wanted to hide your pool pump and filter, this post is for you! A pool equipment enclosure not only keeps your backyard looking tidy, but also protects your costly pool equipment from being damaged by the sun, rain, snow, or anything else Mother Nature has to offer.
While it’s not necessary to cover and enclose pool equipment, many pool owners want a way to keep their equipment safe and their backyard pretty. And thankfully, there are endless ways to create a pool equipment enclosure, no matter your taste or budget.
Should You Enclose Your Pool Equipment?
Pool equipment — pumps, filters, pipes, etc. — are designed to be outside and withstand the elements. It’s not mandatory to enclose them or cover them, as long as they are safe from severe storms or natural disasters. That being said, they are costly, vital pieces of equipment that last longer with proper care and maintenance.
There are three main types of pool equipment enclosures: walls, boxes, and sheds. Walls are the quickest and easiest way to enclose your pool equipment. While boxes and sheds offer more equipment protection, coverage, and storage space. Let’s discuss each option further…
Pool Equipment Enclosures — Walls
The simplest way to hide your pool pump and filter is to put up a small wall or screen to block the view, and the noise from the pump.
If you are handy with wood, you can saw-up your own pool filter screen to hide the pool pump, or you can buy vinyl privacy walls at most home stores and garden centers. As a third option, hire a carpenter to take care of it all for you!
Screens to Hide Pool Equipment
Most privacy screens that you can purchase from a home improvement store are made of vinyl resin. Using pre-fab vinyl fence panels has many advantages:
- Affordability — Most privacy screens have connected stake-like legs on the bottom that secure the screen panels into the ground for stability. Sectional and modular panels are connected with steel bolts, and can be angled into many positions.
- Durability — Vinyl doesn’t fade in the sun or rust in the rain. This durability will keep these enclosures looking new for years. When the panels get dirty, simply spray them with a garden hose.
- Variety — There are many types of vinyl screen panels readily available almost everywhere. You can find traditional picket-fence, or prairie-style panels, or go for colors and textures molded to look like real wood panels or bamboo sheets.
Another way to enclose your pool equipment is to make an enclosure yourself! Depending on your abilities, time, and resources, this can be a fun and creative way to give your backyard a unique look and character.
Wood
Whether it’s natural wood, stained, painted, or repurposed from another project, wood is an elegant and timeless construction material. It is easy to handle and has great longevity, especially when sealed with a water-resistant sealant.
Concrete
Constructing concrete walls takes some real talent and special tools, but if you know how to create a concrete enclosure, you will have a unique and highly durable enclosure. If you choose concrete, which is porous, remember to use a sealant product.
Stone
This material has incredible variety, from small, round pebbles to long, flat blocks like flag stone, along with different colors, shapes and textures. Like concrete, creating stone walls or enclosures takes an advanced skill set, but results in a natural and classic finished product.
Glass
For ultra-modern homes, glass panels are the ideal material for pool-equipment-hiding enclosures. Depending on your budget, you could surround your entire pool with privacy glass.
Vinyl
Much like the ready-to-assemble vinyl panels you can buy at the big home improvement stores, vinyl is available in board-like planks. Many places also offer vinyl boards made from recycled materials, and with life-like wood grain color and texture.
Pool Equipment Enclosure — Boxes
A box offers more protection from the sun, rain, and other elements for your pool equipment than a walled enclosure. Boxes usually have hinged lids for easy access to your equipment. Obtaining proper equipment size measurements is key to building a quality box. If the box fits too snug around the perimeter of your equipment, there won’t be enough room to access the equipment for repairs or maintenance. Always add a few extra inches, or even a foot, to the width, height, and length measurements.
Pool Equipment Enclosures — Sheds
There’s one more option for the pool equipment enclosure possibilities — an equipment shed. Sheds fully protect your equipment, while also offering space to store pool toys, supplies, and chemicals.
Whether you build one from blueprints or get a DIY kit, a shed is a great way to conceal your equipment. You can store other items in the shed, including yard tools, pool toys, pool floats, and even smaller pieces of pool furniture.
Pool Equipment Enclosure — Design
- Construct high ceilings and put in windows for proper ventilation.
- Allow enough room for equipment repairs and services. In addition to room for pool supplies, furniture, and maintenance equipment storage.
- Chlorine chemicals, even in tightly sealed buckets, will rust metal on pumps, filters and heaters.
- Heaters or heat pumps cannot be enclosed. Pool heaters need proper air supply and exhaust venting. If enclosed around the sides, be sure the top is open to clear sky, or follow manufacturer instructions for proper venting.
Depending on your budget, the choices of ways to hide your pool equipment is endless. From simple and affordable, to lavish and costly, research and discover what works for you and your yard. Be sure to plant, build, or install something compatible with your regional climate, as well as your style and taste.
We hope you enjoyed this look at pool equipment enclosures. From a simple 2-wall wood enclosure to custom pool cabanas, there are plenty of ways to hide your pool pump!
Second in our Series of Gas Pool Heater Troubleshooting Guides, today we tackle the early electronic pool heaters from the mid-eighties to the late nineties.
A Spark Ignition is akin to an electronic gas stove top. When your turn on a gas burner on a stove, you don’t have a pilot burning, you have a sparker (tick-tick-tick) that lights one side of the burner, and then the burner orifices quickly ignites, all around the burner. Gas hot water heaters work the same way.
This new generation of gas pool heaters is a whole new ball game. Gone is the pilot generator and mechanical thermostat. Electronic heaters are wired up with 110V or 220V power directly into a transformer, which steps down the power to 24V. From the transformer, 24 volts powers the entire ignition and safety circuitry, and everything is controlled electronically with the Ignition Control (PCB, printed circuit board), the brains of the operation.
But, aside from the IID controller, transformer, a redesigned electronic thermostat, gas valve and pilot, electronic heaters still function in the same way as millivolt heaters. Once the safety circuitry checks out, the gas valve opens and releases gas to the burners. The pilot light ignites the first burner (on the far right), and the others follow – whoosh!
After a heater ignites, it continues to fire or burn until the set thermostat temperature is reached, or another switch breaks the circuit (pressure switch, high limit switch, on/off switch).
You’ll need a multi-meter, one that can check low voltage 24 Volts. You can find these everywhere – Walmart, Home Depot, Radio Shack, and it should cost under $20. You don’t need a fancy test meter to troubleshoot a pool heater.
ELECTRONIC POOL HEATER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDES
For our example heater, we will be using the Old Teledyne Laars Series I & Series II Spark Ignition heaters, made from 1986-1997; but the concepts apply to electronic heaters made by Raypak, Hayward or Purex – RP2100, H-Series or Minimax Plus heaters.
The diagram below is from the Teledyne Laars Series One heater, Model EPS/EPC, and Laars Series 2 ESC. The Dual thermostats (shown above) is something of a gimmick, it just allows you to keep two preset temperatures, and use the 3-position Spa-Off-Pool switch to select Spa or Pool, it’s nothing more than that. If fact, if your Pool Thermostat (potentiometer) wears out, you can use the Spa thermostat to heat the pool.
What we have here is a schematic diagram of the safety circuit in an electronic gas pool heater. The Transformer (1) steps down the incoming power to 24 volts, and the power does a circuit, or a loop, from one side of the gas valve to the other.
When the power successfully passes through all of the components (fuse, fusible link, high limits, pressure switch, thermistor) and again returns to the Ignition Controller (6), the gas valve (8) should open and allow gas to flow into the pilot, which is lit by a small spark (7A), created by the spark ignition wire. The pilot (7B) is lit temporarily, which lights up the burners. Whooosh!
Let’s take it step by step…
STEP 1: TRANSFORMER CHECK
If your heater has no power at all, check the circuit breaker or look for a popped GFCI outlet. Next, verify that you have 24 volts coming in and out of the transformer. Place your test meter on VAC (AC Volts), on a low scale 100 or 200 volts. Then place each probe onto the metal spade connectors of the transformer to verify 22-26 volts, no more – no less.
Inspect the wires too, looking for any obvious signs of damage from heat or rodents. If you don’t get 24 volts on the transformer, Replace the transformer (pn R0061100), they go bad every once in a while.
STEP 2 & 3: FUSIBLE LINK CHECKS
With the Black, or Common lead from your multimeter remaining on the Yellow Wire side of the Transformer, you will move the other Red lead around to different heater components, starting with the Fusible link, a small white part that sits down near the burners, to sense flame rollout. Move your Red meter lead to both sides of the Fusible Link. If you find power coming in (2), but not coming out (3), you either have a bad In-line Fuse (pn 10480000) or a bad Fusible Link (pn R0012200).
The cause of a failed Fusible Link should be investigated. It could be material laying on the burners, or leaves or nests on top of the heat exchanger, or high winds downdrafting, or soot or lime deposits between the copper heat exchanger fins.
STEP 4 & 5: PRESSURE SWITCH / HIGH LIMIT CHECKS
Keeping the black wire on the transformer (an alligator clip adapter for a test probe is useful), move to the probe to the pressure switch (R0011300) and check for 24 volts on each pressure switch spade terminal. Be sure you are contacting the brass metal of the terminal. If no power is found coming into the pressure switch, back-up and test each Hi-Limit (4B 4C) and the Fireman’s Switch terminal (which shuts the heater off 15 minutes before the pump timer is going to shut off, for a cool down period). Remember – the problem lies where the power dies!
If the Hi-Limits (R0023200 and R0022700) are tripping, or the cause of the problem, check the Internal Bypass assembly (pn R0054900), in the front header, for broken, missing or misaligned parts. A temperature rise can be done with a special thermometer inserted into the drain plug hole (pn R0336000), to see how high the temperature is rising inside of the header.
If you find no voltage or less than 24 volts on the black wire (outgoing) of the pressure switch, check for a dirty filter, dirty pump or skimmer baskets or closed or partially closed valves or broken check valves. Also check for an external bypass, a valve outside of the heater, which can allow too much water to bypass the heater.
STEP 6: THERMOSTAT CHECKS
On this step just move your Red lead over to the black/yellow striped wire on the Ignition Control box, to the terminal labeled 24V. Again be sure to contact the metal spade connector on the Controller, without removing the wire, although you can loosen the wire if needed. Turn the thermostat up, and the On/Off switch towards the correct dial.
If there is not 24V at this terminal, replace the Temperature Board (pn R0011700) and if there is 24V but no heat, it’s most likely the Thermistor (pn R0011800).
STEP 7: SPARK CHECK
For Step 7A, Check if there is a Spark at the Gap, by removing the Spark Ignition Wire, pulling back the rubber boot and holding it close to the connector. With thermostat turned up, the call for heat should be sending a small, visible electric spark, jumping the gap from the end of the rubber coated wire, to the connector. If no spark, check the stainless steel wire that runs from the Ceramic Insulator to the Pilot (R0099000), to be sure the power is not grounding out to the burner tray, or some other metal piece. Also check and clean where the SS wire connects at the bottom of the pilot. Make a Visual Check of the Position of the pilot and sparker, to be sure there aren’t nests or insects or debris, and it all appears intact. If you have followed the steps to this point and have 24V up to the Spark Ignition Wire, but no spark jumping the gap, the problem may be the Ignition Control Box or IID (Intermittent Ignition Device) (R0011900).
Step 7B, the pilot (7B) lights, but you have no ignition or firing of the heater burners; use your multi-meter in the same settings and position as used above, check for 24V at the Orange Wire on the Gas Valve. If Yes, check for clogs in the pilot or burner orifices, or in the gas supply. You may also suspect the volume and pressure of gas supply at this point, Propane tanks could be low, or other high demand natural gas appliances could be in use. First consider and check the wires, looking for sharp bends or nicks in the wire casing, and making sure wire nuts, screw or connectors are clean (not rusted) and tight. If damage is found, replace Wire Harness (pn R0058100), and possibly the Ignition Controller still could be the problem. Circuit boards in the good old outdoors tend to fail in 8-10 yrs.
STEP 8: GAS VALVE CHECK
If you have come this far, with a pilot burning and 24V at the Orange wire on the Gas Valve, now check for 24V on the Brown wire on the gas valve. If no, your brown wire is highly suspect, or the circuit board (Ignition Control) is shot. If you do have power, at 24V (or at least 22V) at the Brown wire and the heater won’t fire – give the gas valve a little tap with a hammer (really!). If it still won’t fire off, the electronics inside the valve have failed, replace the gas valve, (R0095900 and Nat pn R0099400). Check for a clogged intake screen as you remove it.
Before you go and throw down several hundred dollars on a new Gas Valve or Ignition Control – go through the steps another time to be sure – I’d hate to waste your time and money, buying pool heater parts that don’t fix the problem!
And…These part numbers I’m throwing around Fit only Jandy (Laars) Series 2 ESC heaters, be sure to check your model size, some don’t fit other models!
After running through all of the steps at least twice – if you want some confirmation of your Laars heater troubleshooting, you can call us at 877-766-5287 (1-877-POOLCTR), to speak with a pool tech, who can answer any questions on the process. Jandy Laars (Owned by Zodiac) also has homeowner technical support, and heater manuals online, or call them at 800-227-1442.
Oh, I almost forgot – here’s the link for over 150 gas pool heater parts schematics! Support your local swimming pool blog!
Thanks for Reading!
Mark Garcia
If you've ever dyed your hair any color on the ROYGBIV spectrum, you already know how hard it is to get that stuff out when you're ready for a change again. But Hilary Duff just made it look easy. On April 8, the actor revealed her new white-blonde hair, which now extends all the way down to her waist. It's an impressive feat, considering she had a pastel blue shade less than a month ago.
"Have you noticed that I’m blonde…. and Rapunzeled???" Duff wrote in an Instagram post. "@nikkilee901 you are hair fairy goddess and I thank you for going down all my hair-ventures with me. Especially for all the tender loving care you treat my hair with when you have to undo what I make you do."
Duff's colorist, Nikki Lee from Los Angeles's Nine Zero One salon, broke down via a press release how she took the actor "from sky blue to springtime sunshine." According to Lee, it took eight hours and two rounds of a color-removing solution just to get all of the blue pigment out of Duff's hair. Then, to lighten the hair to that platinum blonde hue, she used a few different professional-grade Redken formulas.
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To add length to Duff's hair, extensions were a must. "Lisa Satron and I used a Great Lengths combination of tape-in and individual keratin-bonded extensions in 18-inch and 20-inch for the perfect look," Lee explains. "We mixed rooted and bronde tape-ins in the back of the head and individual keratin-tip extensions in front and sides for the most moveable effortless look."
Sadly, this isn't a transformation you could pull off easily at home or without a licensed professional — but if you're in the market for a hair-repairing product to soothe heat-damaged or color-treated hair like Duff's, there's always the In Common Common Crystal Cashmere Treatment system, the bond-repairing treatment Lee used to keep Duff's hair as healthy as possible during their lightening session. [Lee co-created the brand.]
We don't know about you, but this new look has us itching even more for a drastic springtime hair transformation ourselves. Be right back, we're off to call our colorists.
All products featured on Allure are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
More on celebrity hair:
- Chrissy Teigen Now Has Pink Hair, and No, It's Not a Wig
- Everyone, Please Look at Megan Thee Stallion's Platinum Hair
- Salma Hayek Lets Her Curls Down In Latest Makeup-Free Selfie
Now, see Martha Stewart's morning beauty routine:
Don't forget to follow Allure on Instagram and Twitter.
Time to read: 5 min
Image Source: Forbes. Paris Olympics medals.
Since 1904, top Olympians in the Olympic Games have been awarded gold, silver, and bronze medals. As in previous years, the Paris Olympic Games will award medals to Olympic and Paralympic competitors who reach the pinnacle of athletic achievement.
Behind this inspiring vision lies the hard work and complexity involved in creating the medals themselves. At Fictiv, our mission is to simplify sourcing for custom manufacturing projects like this, so we tapped our manufacturing experts to weigh in on the intricate process that would be involved in concepting, designing, sourcing, and manufacturing this year’s Olympic medals—all in service to the incredible heritage of the Games.
The final results: Over 5,000 medals were produced, each 9.2mm thick, and weighing between 450 and 500 grams.
Designing the Olympic Medals
Image Source: Forbes. Close-up of the complex design of this year’s Olympic medals.
Each host city is responsible for the design and manufacture of Olympic medals. This year, the process began when the Olympics Organizing Committee collaborated with artists and designers to brainstorm motifs and themes that embody the Paris Olympics. This culminated in a design competition where artists and designers submitted their proposals and were judged by a panel that included the International Olympic Committee (IOC). The design must adhere to specific guidelines set by the IOC, that required the inclusion of the Olympic motto and the year of the Games.
Assessing Medal Manufacturability
The design would then be shared with manufacturing engineers, who offer design for manufacturability guidance (DFM). Engineers examine the design to ensure it aligns with manufacturing best practices and principles and can be manufactured. Typically this involves an effort to simplify the manufacturing process, reduce production costs, and improve product quality and consistency. But, in the case of Olympic medals, tolerances, repeatability, and aesthetics are critical to the final product, so DFM would prioritize the relevant attributes.
Each medal for the 2024 Paris Olympics contains original iron from the Eiffel Tower. The iron was cut into a hexagon, with puddled iron left in its original color, then placed in the center and embossed with the emblem of the Paris 2024 Games. From a manufacturing standpoint, this precise process requires strict adherence to tight tolerances and aesthetic guidelines.
DFM, in this case, would ensure all of the requirements were included in the design and ready for manufacturing. Reliable, accurate DFM isn’t always easy to find, and finding the right manufacturing partner with in-depth knowledge and expertise in engineering and manufacturing of custom-made items like the medals can be extremely difficult.
Material Sourcing & Sustainability for the Paris Olympic Medals
Increasingly, sustainability is a critical priority in manufacturing and sourcing Olympic medals. This year is no exception. The Paris Olympics medals were made with a strong focus on sustainability, ethical practices, and environmental responsibility. By using recycled materials, ensuring fair trade and conflict-free sourcing, and maintaining transparency in the supply chain, the organizing committee aimed to set a new standard for the responsible production of Olympic medals.
Sourcing complexity is intrinsic to manufacturing in a global economy. Finding responsibly sourced materials from reliable, high-quality manufacturing partners is one of the most significant challenges facing supply chain leaders today.
Prototyping the Olympic Medals
Medals are typically manufactured using casting, which often first requires a prototype with a sand cast or clay mold. This year, the medals are produced by the French National Mint. Likely steps include selecting the appropriate molding material, applying mold release agents to the pattern to prevent sticking, and constructing the mold. The mold material would be packed around the pattern for a single-use mold, such as a sand mold. The curing/setting process would then allow the mold to set around the pattern. The time required for this process can vary depending on the material used. Demolding the final product would remove the cast or break the mold away. Post-cast processing involves finishing steps such as trimming excess material, CNC machining the strap hole, and electroplating or polishing. The Paris Olympic medals likely require all of these steps.
The quality control step is one of the most critical, as this is the process by which any defects or deviations from the design specifications are flagged. Then, continued testing is used to ensure the product meets the required standards and performance criteria.
Olympic Medal Production Testing
Once the Olympic medal casts were ready for testing, test parts would likely have been created to test the validity of the design. A test part is often manufactured using a sand cast, 3D printed, or CNC machined format to test the fit and function of the parts. 3D printing is typically used for rapid prototyping for quick iterations and adjustments, whereas CNC machining is used for prototypes requiring high precision, like this year’s Olympic medals.
Following a close inspection by quality engineers, the medal manufacturer would then provide the prototype to the Olympic Committee in charge of overseeing medal production. After a visual inspection of the medals and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF) testing, where X-rays are utilized to confirm the composition meets the requirements using radiation, the Olympic Committee experts would offer final approval.
Olympic Medal Final Production
Once the manufacturer’s quality control team verifies the initial production, the project would then move to production, typically casting, stamping, and CNC machining. Additional advanced techniques for the medals would include engraving and embossing. Each medal would then be carefully crafted to meet high-quality durability and aesthetic standards. The final finishing steps often involve electroplating, polishing, cleaning, or a combination of these steps.
Assembly & Shipping
After securing final inspection and quality control, including inspection to ensure the medals meet all the quality standards, the final assembly might involve further polishing. Next, ribbons are often produced using the colors and branding of the specific Olympic Games.
Finally, the manufacturer would carefully package, label, and ship the final products to the Olympic Committee. This step involves everything from customs to documentation and logistics, to ensuring security clearance.
Vision Meets Design & Manufacturing
The design and manufacture of the Paris Olympics medals blend artistic vision, technical expertise, and a deep respect for the Olympic Games’ tradition and values. The manufacturing process is incredibly complex, but the rewards are clear: Seeing the Olympians claim their place on the podium, medal in hand.
Visit our website at www.fictiv.com to learn more about Fictiv and how we help companies simplify sourcing for custom manufacturing.
Sources: Olympics.com, How It’s Made, Forbes
A to-do list is the primary tool of a productive person. It helps in everyday work and allows you to carry out your duties better. As it turns out, some of its elements can also be entered into the administration panel of a Drupal website.
In this article I’ll take a closer look at the Checklist API module, which provides Drupal users with an interesting implementation of a TODO list.
Dates
The first alpha release of the module was introduced in 2012 for Drupal 7. The stable version 1.0 was released several months later. To date, 12 stable versions have been created – including the newest, marked as 2.0, for Drupal 8 and 9.
Popularity
Even though the Checklist API module isn’t very popular, it has become quite recognisable over the years. Currently, according to the official statistics, it’s used by over 30 thousand Drupal-based websites, 63% of which are the 7.x-1.x branch.
Module’s creators
The module is maintained by Travis Carden from Acquia, a very active member of the Drupal community. Besides him, 11 other people have also participated in the project so far. About 170 commits were created in total.
Purpose of the module
The Checklist API module is used to create lists with checkboxes. The status of the task execution is saved to the configuration or to the State API, and it can be modified using the code. Checklist API can be employed to build a to-do list, but that is only one way to use it.
In the case of the Droopler distribution, the Checklist API module was used as a mechanism supporting the update process. When automatic processes fail, we advise the user to perform the operations that aren’t checked on the list manually. There are detailed instructions and links available for them:
Checklist API is used by many tools for checking websites in terms of SEO and quality, including SEO Checklist and QA Checklist.
Unboxing
The module is available on the Drupal.org website. You can install it both via Composer (using the composer require drupal/linkit command) and from the .zip file available on Drupal.org.
Module’s use
After running the Checklist API module, you’ll probably be surprised by the fact that it doesn’t have any administration panel. New lists can only be created via the API. This is done using a hook – hook_checklistapi_checklist_info().
Here is an example of a hook that adds a simple to-do checklist when publishing a new website:
/**
* Implements hook_checklistapi_checklist_info().
*
* Defines an example deploy checklist.
* .
*/
function mylist_checklistapi_checklist_info() {
$definitions = [];
$definitions['mylist'] = [
'#title' => t('Website deploy checklist'),
'#path' => '/admin/config/development/website-checklist',
'#callback' => 'mylist_checklistapi_checklist_items',
'#description' => t('An example deploy checklist for the website.'),
'#help' => t('<p>This is an example deploy checklist for your website, provided by the hook_checklistapi_checklist_items().</p>'),
'#storage' => 'state',
];
return $definitions;
}
This hook references the mylist_checklistapi_checklist_items function, which returns a multidimensional array. You divide the checklist into tabs with tasks. Each defined task can have a description and a list of links to help the user perform it:
/**
* Implements callback_checklistapi_checklist_items() for mylist.
*/
function mylist_checklistapi_checklist_items() {
return [
'tab1' => [
'#title' => t('Drupal admin panel'),
'#description' => t('<p>Set up the Drupal installation for PROD environment.</p>'),
'aggregate_css_js' => [
'#title' => t('Enable JS/CSS aggregation'),
'#description' => t('Enable optimization of the site assets, it is crucial for page speed.'),
'handbook_page' => [
'#text' => t('Performance options'),
'#url' => Url::fromUri('base://admin/config/development/performance'),
],
],
'disable_devel' => [
'#title' => t('Disable "devel" module'),
'handbook_page' => [
'#text' => t('Module list'),
'#url' => Url::fromUri('base://admin/modules'),
],
],
],
'tab2' => [
// ...
],
];
}
After calling the above code, every authorised user of the website will get access to the new checklist. When they uncheck subsequent items, they’ll obtain clear information about the level of completion of tasks:
Defining the content via code has one major advantage – the ability to manipulate tasks, including automatically marking them as completed. Looking at the example above, you could write a module that will check by itself whether the CSS/JS aggregation is enabled and if the “devel” module has been uninstalled. This way, the potential user will save a lot of time.
Here’s an example of a piece of code that loads the checklist and enforces its initial state. If the “devel” module is active, the relevant checkbox will be checked automatically.
$handler = Drupal::service('module_handler');
$checklist = checklistapi_checklist_load('mylist');
$progress = [
'tab1' => [
'disable_devel' => $handler->moduleExists('devel'),
],
];
$checklist->saveProgress($progress);
Summary
Checklist API is very useful for carrying out repetitive tasks, such as those you perform when publishing a new website. The module can also be used as a tool supporting security monitoring and website optimisation, performed as part of Drupal support.
With little effort, Checklist API provides plenty of possibilities and a convenient interface for non-technical users. I definitely recommend getting better acquainted with its functionalities.
人生一定要拥有一款的香奈儿包包，woc链条包绝对算得上一个，我很早就喜欢上这款包，那时候长款钱包还是蛮流行的，chanel woc就是由钱包演变而来，钱包+链条的设计直接戳中无数女人的心，掀起了一股流行风尚。
chanel woc大家都喜欢称之为发财包，是香奈儿多少年来一直最受欢迎的款式之一，虽然现在很多品牌都推出了类型的款式，但woc的世界里，香奈儿在女人们心目中的地位永远不会动摇。
喜欢精致小包的女人一定都很精致，而她们一定会喜欢chanel woc，这款包把精致感觉做到了每个细节，设计十分经典，就像cf在口盖包的地位一样，已经成为woc链条包的经典样板款式，不仅永不过时，而且上身效果也很美。
作为一只无数女人喜爱的小包，woc的亮点还不少，比如这些：
精美经典：woc延续小香口盖包的经典设计，双C标志 菱格纹 链条肩带这些经典元素加持，尺寸设计的小巧又纤薄，加上精美的材质与手工打造，尽显精致美感，
搭法灵活：搭配最有小香风的链条肩带，不仅可以单肩斜挎，还可以手拿，一包多用，就算是时下流行的手拧和腋下背，woc一样能满足你的心愿。
便于携带：小巧轻盈，不管肩搭，还是拿在手中，都让人感觉很轻松，而且还能放在大包里面，小巧纤薄的尺寸完全不占空间，携带方便，完全无负担。
时尚百搭：各种日常穿衣风格都能驾驭，衬衫 T桖 外套 裙子…，想怎么穿就怎么穿，一年四季全都适合，可起到点亮时尚的效果，轻轻松松搭配出时尚女人的风范。
实用性强：不要看它只是一只小包，但包内功能性很强大，有多个隔层和拉链袋，而且有非常多的卡位，有了它，钱包卡包都不用带了。
chanel woc新旧版对比
今年wco又悄悄的改了版，你知道有哪些变化吗？
拉链头对比：翻盖上的拉链袋换成了金属头，金属颜色统一，精美度瞬即提升的同时，使用起来也更流畅，尤其是拉链头折叠后不会再扎伤皮革。
按扣对比：传统按扣换成了更大的磁扣，开合更轻松，只需要轻松轻松一按，翻盖就自动合拢了，还有清脆的吸扣碰触声，打开翻盖也只需要一只手就能操作。
里衬颜色对比：都采用酒红色织布里衬，虽然颜色变化不大，但新版感觉要更深一些。
包内拉链：包内拉链袋也换上了金属头，又精致又好用，
新旧版皮串链条肩带对比：都是使用的浅金色金属，不过感觉新版的要稍金黄色一些。
双C标志对比：woc经典款的双C标志设计的非常秀气，只占不到一个菱格，
鱼子酱纹路牛皮对比：旧版的球纹一粒粒更圆润，新版球纹的表面要平坦一些，光泽感也要柔和一些。
▲新版chanel woc黑色球纹牛皮加银链肩带
虽然现在经典款woc已经推出新版了，但是依然还是能买着旧版的哦，接下来可以看看目前能买到的，chanel woc新旧版款式详细图，皮革有羊皮和球纹皮，金属有银色和金色两种搭配。
▲新版chanel woc黑色球纹牛皮加银链肩带
▲新版chanel woc黑色球纹牛皮加金链肩带
▲旧版chanel woc黑色球纹皮加金链肩带
选牛皮的优势：如果你喜欢有质感的皮革，而且耐用一些的皮革，建议选择球纹皮，牛皮要比羊皮厚一些，手感也要硬一些。
▲旧版chanel woc黑色球纹皮加金链肩带
▲旧版chanel woc黑色羊皮加银链肩带
选择羊皮的优势：如果你喜欢光滑平坦的皮革，可以选择羊皮的，羊皮的纹路很细腻，表面光滑，手摸上去就像婴儿的肌肤一样光滑细腻，而且特别柔软。
选择羊皮的缺点：皮革比较薄，比有牛皮耐用，时间久了会磨花皮革表面的颜色，所以羊皮包包除了很有女人味，也适合很爱惜包包的女人。
▲旧版chanel woc黑色羊皮加银链肩带
选择银色链条：银色金属没有金色那么显眼，风格低调许多，在夏天还能带给人清爽的感觉，而且不用担心金属褪色。
▲旧版chanel woc黑色羊皮加金链肩带
选择金色链条：金色金属在黑色皮革衬托下，显得金光闪闪，散发华丽的气息，所以也非常引人注目，缺点是时间久了会把链条表现的镀金磨损，从而造成金属的氧化褪色。
▲旧版chanel woc黑色羊皮加金链肩带
说了这么多新旧版chanel woc的区别，以及不同材质的优缺点，大家都知道怎么选了吗？欢迎在网页下方评论区发表你的看法。
文章关键词：香奈儿发财包、香奈儿链条钱包、chanel woc、香奈儿迷你包
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