Author: DELEITURAS

TOKYO/BEIJING – Japan has upgraded its estimate of North Korea’s nuclear weapons capability in an upcoming annual defense white paper, saying it seems Pyongyang has already achieved the miniaturization of warheads, the Yomiuri newspaper said in an unsourced report Wednesday.

That compares with the assessment in last year’s report in which the government said it was possible North Korea had achieved miniaturization, the daily said without citing sources.

The report, to be approved at a Cabinet meeting in mid-September, will maintain the assessment that North Korea’s military activities pose a “serious and imminent threat,” the Yomiuri said.

South Korea’s 2018 defense white paper, released in January, reported that North Korea’s ability to miniaturize nuclear weapons “appears to have reached a considerable level.”

According to South Korean media reports late last year, the South Korean intelligence agency told lawmakers that North Korea had continued to miniaturize nuclear warheads even after the Singapore summit between U.S. President Donald Trump and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un in June 2018.

At that time, North Korea committed “to work toward complete denuclearization of the Korean Peninsula” and destroyed some tunnels and buildings at its Punggye-ri nuclear test site.

But a second Trump-Kim meeting in February collapsed without an agreement, and North Korea has since resumed missile tests.

American officials have concluded for years that North Korea had likely produced miniaturized nuclear warheads. A leaked report by the Defense Intelligence Agency in 2017 concluded that North Korea had successfully produced a miniaturized nuclear warhead that can fit inside its missiles, according to The Washington Post.

In last year’s defense white paper, Japan said “miniaturizing a nuclear weapon small enough to be mounted on a ballistic missile requires a considerably high degree of technological capacity,” and that “it is possible that North Korea has achieved the miniaturization of nuclear weapons and has developed nuclear warheads.”

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Also Wednesday, North Korea voiced its eagerness via its state-run media to continue developing and testing new weapons while accusing the United States of seeking confrontation through joint military drills with the South.

“There can be no constructive dialogue while confrontation is fueled,” the Rodong Sinmun, the mouthpiece of the ruling Workers’ Party of Korea, said. “We have to develop, test and deploy powerful physical means essential for national defense.”

The remarks by North Korea’s most influential newspaper came a day after the United States and South Korea ended their joint military exercise that started Aug. 5. Pyongyang has denounced such drills as a rehearsal for an invasion.

North Korea has repeatedly launched projectiles, including what appeared to be short-range ballistic missiles, off its east coast since July 25, in protest against the latest U.S.-South Korea joint military exercise.

The moves came despite Trump’s revelation earlier this month that he received what he called a “beautiful” letter from Kim. Trump said Kim expressed his desire in the letter to hold more summit talks following the end of the military drill.

North Korea is scheduled to convene the second session of its top legislative body this year on Aug. 29. All eyes are on whether Kim will make a speech at the legislature to announce his policy of how to proceed with denuclearization negotiations with the United States.

At their June 30 meeting at the inter-Korean truce village of Panmunjeom, Trump and Kim agreed that Washington and Pyongyang would resume stalled denuclearization talks within weeks, but they have yet to take place.

Chelsea are looking to sign 16-year-old Spanish youngster Pedri from La Liga 2 side Las Palmas.

The Blues are currently under a transfer ban after being punished by FIFA for breaking rules around signing foreign players under the age of 18.

But this does not seem to have dampened their resolve to target the top young talent from across Europe.

The young midfielder has been attracting attention from the ‘great clubs of Europe’ many of whom were ‘marvelling at him’ in Gran Canaria last weekend, according to a Radio Marca Lanzarote report.

Barcelona are also said to be front-runners for Pedri’s signature, keen to land one of the ‘great promises’ in Spanish football before his value skyrockets.

With Las Palmas in something of a crisis, it is thought that they would be willing to accept a fee in the region of €10million.

Chelsea would not be able to register Pedri until next summer, but an up front payment and a loan deal back to Las Palmas could be one that suits all parties.

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Harry Maguire fee
Interesting article yesterday about Harry Maguire, to which I would like to offer a Manchester United fan point of view.

Over the years, I have grown less concerned about transfer fees. Let’s be honest: there’s no such thing as a reasonable fee paid for any player at any level – it’s all exorbitant and ridiculous spending really. The only time I really get interested in transfer fees is in the context of our reported budget, i.e. if the fee we pay for for one player hinders us from being able to sign another player we also need. Harry Maguire signing for £80m is ridiculous but really speaking it’s no more or less ridiculous than Virgil van Dijk at £75m, or Neymar at £200m, or even £800k for Steve Bruce back in the day. I think people are far too hung up on fees these days, something I have also been guilty of in the past, but it’s all about context really. The only things that United need concern ourselves with are:

Is he better than the players we already had? On previous evidence there’s really very little concern in this regard; for both Leicester and England he has shown that he is a talented player quite consistently. It’s very early days in his United career but the signs suggest that he is, having played well in his first two matches and seemingly formed a reasonable understanding with both Lindelof and Shaw next to him. We’ll see more how that develops in the next few months and years, but he’s off to a good start.

Does he fit how we want to play? I would say quite obviously yes. He seemed to be one of only a very select number of players we wanted for that position, alongside maybe only Koulibaly, so he must fit the profile. From an observers vantage point, I would say he ticks the boxes: calm under pressure in possession, good in the air, good passing game are all things that Jones and Smalling weren’t.

Could we afford him? Again, obviously yes. At the start of the window then I would think it was reasonable to assume that there was at least in the £150m mark to play with and we subsequently brought in about £70m + recovered wages (which might even go up a bit more if Sanchez leaves this month). So again, this wasn’t really a concern.

All things considered, I don’t really care too much how much he cost us if he plays well consistently. His transfer fee won’t really dictate whether he’s a success – only his performances will. If he turns out to be bobbins then, sure, you can say it was a waste of money but that would still be the case even if he’d cost £8m. It would be different if we had gone and signed someone like Neymar for £200m or something, and clearly broken our financial structure, if he had then turned out to be utterly useless because then you’re saddled with an expensive mistake that will continue to cost you into the future (Alexis Sanchez, anyone?); we didn’t go beyond our means because £80m was within our budget, so the finer details of his price don’t really matter.

When I watch him play I’m not thinking “£80m player”, I’m just thinking “United player”. It definitely doesn’t matter to me how much we paid or whether or not he turns out to be better than Van Dijk because we don’t really need him to be; we only need him to be better than the players he has replaced and at least equal to the attackers he faces.  I certainly won’t be counting the pennies any time he makes a mistake; Phil Jones has taught me the fultility of that particular exercise.
Ted, Manchester

 

Let’s just enjoy Maddison
So F365 publish an article the other day slating Simon Jordan and Karen Brady for their words on Daniel Sturridge quite rightly. They don’t know him and as was said people within the game really respect and him and Klopp who has managed him for the last 4 years has said nothing but good things about him.

So it was to my great surprise that today I see an article from Seb Stafford-Bloor doing the exact same thing to James Maddison.

“It’s easy to criticise him. It’s also easy to interpret the way he looks and how he carries himself as an accurate reflection of who he is. As a bit brash, a bit obnoxious. Is that fair? Only people who actually know him can answer that, but it’s actually part of what makes him alluring. Jeremy Clarkson may not like it, but Maddison looks the part. He struts his way through warm-ups and has that confidentdemeanour on the pitch which makes him seem like a star in waiting”

So you don’t know the guy at all but to you he is “arrogant” and “struts around” in a warm up. Almost everything I’ve seen on him says he’s hard working and really wants to make the best of himself. He back’s himself but what footballer at the top level doesn’t?

Theres about as much consistency here as the handball rule for attackers and defenders.

Lets enjoy watching Maddison develop with starting the rumours of him being difficult and being the new David Bentley.
Chaz (Essex)

 

Why would you sign?
Question to the mailbox. I’ve kind of seen a pattern arise for players who sign for Barcelona or Real Madrid, and I was wondering what the mailbox thinks. Often, the clubs will go all out to court, tap up, and basically blow smoke up the backsides of any player they want, especially young players. Obviously, they have the prestige, any young player probably dreams of playing for them since picking up a joypad to play Fifa or Pro Evo, but how many of those players end up used, abused or discarded?

I’d say for every Ronaldo, there is a Dembele. Players who’s development takes a hit because the seductive idea of being a major signing for the world’s biggest clubs supersedes this. I think of Sancho at Dortmund, who has recently signed a new contract in spite of offers from United and PSG, and I think he has been smart. If Real really want him, or one of the other superclubs, they will have to make him a record signing. And unless you are a record signing, you will never have the club truly back you. Basically this is a round about way of asking, if you were a great young player, what club would you want to play for, and why? Even as an Arsenal fan, I’d want to go to either Dortmund, Southampton, Ajax, or Liverpool. Those are the clubs that seem to be properly nurturing talent IMO.
John (TRAITOR) Matrix AFC

 

Holloway
I am sitting here stunned, and in absolute awe, of Ian Holloway’s brexit/VAR comments.

I’m not going to call it the stupidest, most Brexity thing ever said – but for anyone who doesn’t know how football’s rules get changed, please google ‘IFAB’ and take a look at how its membership and rules are structured.
Joe Donohoe

 

While I was campaigning for Remain in the referendum back in 2016 I was told by a man looking not dissimilar to the esteemable Ian Holloway that all of us Remainers were traitors, as the EU had invaded the Falklands.

This is their world, we just live in it.
Tim Sutton

 

VAR was inevitable
How many times have you watched a match and an exchange, between commentators or in the studio, like this happens?’I think he might have handled that/fouled etc’
*watches frame by frame, zoomed in replay*

‘Yep, he has. I can’t believe the ref hasn’t seen it’

You get the gist. Technology has been used for so long as a stick to beat the ref with. And whip up the masses when a result hasn’t gone your way. This is one of the reasons why we have Var now, because of the constant outcry against a miniscule offence that you only spotted because it was reviewed several times, from several angles, at 1/10th speed. And then bitch and moan that the refs necessary snap judgement can be wrong. With that consistent level of undermining going on from fans, pundits, ex pros etc, Var was inevitable.

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Anyway my question is this, for people opposed to Var, if you were told that Var would be scrapped but, to protect refs, incidents could only be reviewed from their viewpoint (or as close as possible) at full speed and only once, would you agree to it?
Kev (it’s the linesmen I feel sorry for)

 

Is this the year that Barcelona get ripped to shreds in La Liga and The Champions League?
The average age of this current 2019/20 starting 11 is 28.7yrs, that’s including the youngster De Jong and Griezmann, who is no spring chicken anymore at 28yrs old.

They have an aging Piqué, Busquets, Rakitic & Suárez, all over 30yrs of age (Messi is 32, but I think we can all allow him some leyway for being the football Messiah).

Add to that Démbélé being injured, Malcom sold to Russia and Coutinho loaned to Champions League rivals Bayern, and this team have a serious lack of pace. I think Valverde could be on borrowed time. Gone by Christmas is my bet.

(Anyone know how to type Rakitic with a c accent..?)
Kireca

 

One more about the pundits
Phil Neville claims that footballers should get off social media due to the ridiculous abuse they get online.
But one thing that feeds this type of abuse is the overly strong opinions expressed by pundits towards certain players.
Could Phil speak to Gary and ask him to take a chill pill?
Ryan

 

Leicester striker Islam Slimani has joined Monaco on loan for the rest of the season.

The 31-year-old, who became the Foxes’ record signing when he arrived for a reported £29million from Sporting Lisbon in summer 2016, scored just 13 times in 46 appearances for the club.

He spent the second half of the 2017/18 campaign on loan at Newcastle, where he played four times without scoring, before another unproductive loan last term at Turkish side Fenerbahce.

Slimani has had some joy on the international front, however, helping Algeria win the Africa Cup of Nations earlier this summer.

He will now link up with Monaco and could make his debut for the Ligue 1 side at home to Nimes on Sunday.

 

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Tottenham and Club Brugge are quite some way apart on their valuations of midfielder Victor Wanyama, according to reports.

The Express believe say that Wanyama, whose Premier League career seems to have finally been claimed by injury, might be on the way to Belgium and Club Brugge.

The Kenya international, who takes home £65,000 a week, has two years remaining on his current contract at Spurs – but he reportedly wants out.

Harry Winks, Moussa Sissoko, Eric Dier and Oliver Skipp are ahead of him in the pecking order and that’s before you take into account the arrival of Tanguy Ndombele over the summer.

Wanyama has been blighted by injuries over the past couple of seasons and it could be the right time to make a move.

The Evening Standard say that Tottenham are demanding £17million for the midfielder but Club Brugge are not prepared to pay that.

Instead, the Belgium side value him at £8million and ‘the two clubs are still in negotiations’.

Another potential ‘stumbling block’ could be Wanyama’s high wages and there could be the possibility of taking him on loan.

 

Gen. David Berger, the new U.S. Marines commandant, acknowledged Wednesday that he is concerned about deteriorating relations between Japan and South Korea, both key regional allies, but also expressed hopes that politicians would work out a resolution.

Berger stressed that Japan and South Korea have common interests despite their differences, such as the threat posed by China and pursuing stability in Asia.

“I’m optimistic it will get worked out,” said Berger, during his first trip to Japan after being appointed to his post.

Besides meetings with Japanese government and military officials, his visit also includes traveling to Okinawa, where most of the U.S. forces here are based. He heads to South Korea later this week.

Bilateral relations worsened after Tokyo removed South Korea’s preferential trade status in early July. South Korea has decided to strip Japan of its own preferential trade status, with the new rules taking effect in September.

Seoul sees Tokyo’s initial move as retaliation for South Korean court rulings that Japanese companies must compensate South Korean wartime forced laborers. Japan says it was driven by a security issue.

Berger declined to comment on what might happen if South Korea makes good on the threat to end an agreement with Japan to share military intelligence, called the General Security of Military Information Agreement, or GSOMIA, which went into effect in 2016. He said such sharing was important from a military standpoint, and discussions were ongoing outside the military.

“I never said I was not concerned. We are. What I did say is we have a common focus on an assessment of what the near and long-term threats are. But absolutely we should all be concerned when any part of any alliance has some challenges,” said Berger.

“I am confident that the right leaders are talking. I am confident that we all share a common view of the threat to stability in this region.”

Berger met Chief Cabinet Secretary Yoshihide Suga on Tuesday and confirmed that their countries will redouble efforts to reinforce their alliance.

“Through frequent mutual visits by top-level officials, Japan-U.S. ties have become even stronger,” Suga said at their meeting at the Prime Minister’s Office.

In response, Berger, who took the post in July, expressed his intention to work harder to strengthen the alliance.

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The two also confirmed that the burden of hosting U.S. bases in Okinawa Prefecture will be reduced through the relocation of U.S. Marine Corps Air Station Futenma, located in the densely populated Okinawa city of Ginowan, to the Henoko coastal area in Nago, also in Okinawa, and the transfer of U.S. Marines in the prefecture to Guam.

While in Okinawa, Berger will visit Henoko, where a U.S. Marine air station is being built on a coastal landfill.

Many residents want the base moved completely off Okinawa, and its new governor, Denny Tamaki, was elected last year after campaigning on that demand.

Berger played down worries about delays and said construction was going smoothly, while stopping short of giving a detailed timeline.

He said that earlier he had checked construction of a U.S. Marine facility in the U.S. Pacific territory of Guam.

“I think the progress is solid,” he said, adding that the overall plan to begin the Guam move in the early 2020s is “on track.”

Japan sees the U.S. as its most important ally. Berger noted that the U.S. military and Japan’s Self-Defense Forces work closely together.

“This is the most consequential region for us. Our alliance with Japan is an essential part of that,” he said.

Manchester United want Inter Milan to pay more over a potential loan move for Alexis Sanchez, according to reports.

During Friday’s press conference Ole Gunnar Solskjaer appeared to end talk of Sanchez leaving, despite the Chilean failing to achieve anywhere near his best since joining from Arsenal in January 2018.

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Solskjaer spoke about his belief that Sanchez, 30, would come good at United – but just days later the manager opened the door to an exit by the Premier League’s highest-paid player.

The Red Devils were reportedly asking for €15m (£13.7m) initially for Inter to take the Chilean on loan for the season.

However, Sky Italia now claims that United have increased their fee demands, while they also want the Serie A side to pay a higher percentage of Sanchez’s wages.

The report adds that United and Inter will hold further talks on Thursday and another Italian outlet Gazzetta dello Sport claim that Sanchez could even undergo a medical on the same day with a deal likely.

Sanchez has only scored five goals in his 45 appearances for United over his two seasons at Old Trafford and is yet to appear this campaign.

 

Borussia Dortmund have rewarded Jadon Sancho with a new deal at the club amid speculation over a move away from Signal Iduna Park, according to reports.

The England international reportedly turned down interest from Manchester United and Paris Saint-Germain in the summer transfer window and now Dortmund have moved to protect their own interests.

The Daily Mail claims that Sancho has been handed a new deal by the German giants worth just short of £10million a year.

His previous contract was worth around £75,000 a week and was set to run until the summer of 2022 – but now Dortmund have given him a ‘lucrative extension to his previous deal’.

The 19-year-old’s new salary is reportedly £190,000 a week with ‘his status as one of the hottest prospects in world football has now been acknowledged by Dortmund’.

Sancho has been heavily linked with moves to United and Manchester City in the past and the two clubs ‘will test Dortmund’s resolve’ in the future.

The new contract means any potential buyers will have to ‘break the bank on wages as well as a transfer fee to lure him away next summer’.

The 19-year-old England international joined the Bundesliga side from City for £7million in August 2017 and contributed 12 goals and 17 assists in his breakthrough season.

He was named in the Bundesliga Team of the Year and his form has drawn interest from a host of top clubs across Europe.

 

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Corrado Pibiri e Vincenzo Carcangiu hanno aperto Los Compadres (5c+, 335m) sulle Gole di Gorroppu in Sardegna.

Ancora una nuova via “facile” a Gorroppu. Corrado Pibiri è ritornato sulla stessa parete dove il mese scorso con Fabio Erriu aveva aperto Lunghe ‘e vida mia per tracciare un’altra via simile alla precedente ma un po’ più corta. Il nuovo itinerario, aperto questa volta in compagnia di Vincenzo Carcangiu, si sviluppa per 330 metri ripartiti in 7 tiri di corda, sempre su placche di ottimo calcare grigio. La via è stata battezzata Los Compadres, è interamente chiodata a fix ed ha una difficoltà massima di 5c+. Sono necessari 10 rinvii e corde da 55 metri. Per avvicinamento, discesa e altre informazioni riferirsi alla vicina Lunghe ‘e vida mia.

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Nell’articolo precedente avevamo indicato la parete col nome di Costas Mammaluccas. Il geografo Matteo Cara ci invia tuttavia la seguente precisazione, che accogliamo volentieri: “…la via non si sviluppa su Costa Mammaluccas, che si trova proprio sopra il primo lago di Gorroppu, ma parte esattamente dal centro di Sa forada ‘e sa Ida, che a Orgosolo chiamano Su Hone ‘e sa Ide. Non credo che la parete abbia un nome, come molte di quelle che non erano praticabili, anche se poco più in basso si apre l’imbocco di su piggiu de Giuanne Soro”

SCHEDA: Los Compadres, Gole di Gorroppu, Sardegna.

Il racconto delle recente ripetizione di Divine Providence da parte di Andrea Di Donato e Bertrand Lemaire. Aperta nel 1984 dai francesi Patrick Gabarrou e François Marsigny e gradata ABO, Divine Providence al Gran Pilier d’Angle è stata liberata nel 1990 da Alain Ghersen e Thierry Renault. Ancora oggi rimane una via di riferimento nel gruppo del Monte Bianco.

Ci sono vie immortali. Divine Providence al Gran Pilier d’Angle del Monte Bianco è una di queste. Come già avevamo scritto in occasione della ripetizione a-vista in 32 ore di Luka Krajnc e Luka Lindic, la via aperta nel 1984 dalla grande cordata Patrick Gabarrou – François Marsigny è un capolavoro assoluto. Un vero manifesto dell’alpinismo sul Monte Bianco (e non solo) che ha segnato un’epoca e che continua ad affascinare ed impegnare gli alpinisti. Per la difficoltà, per la quota e per l’ambiente superbo e selvaggio, quello dell’immenso versante sud del Monte Bianco, che affronta. Non a caso questa incredibile linea è rimasta tra le più ambite. Come non è un caso che nella sua storia si leggano le firme di super alpinisti come Alain Ghersen e Thierry Renault (3a salita e 1a libera nel 1990) o come Jean Christophe Lafaille (4a salita e 1a solitaria sempre nel 1990). Insieme alla prima salita italiana (5a assoluta) effettuata nel 1991 da Luciano Barbieri, Giovanni Bassanini, Valerio Folco, Pierino Rey, e Marcello Ricotti. Ma anche a quella di Roberto Bressan, Saverio Occhi e Paolo Tamagnini 3 giovani, forti e un po’ matti aspiranti guide alpine che, nel 1992, ne hanno fatto la prima salita invernale (fino alla cima del Pilier d’Angle). Una salita invernale completa fino alla cima del Bianco che, sempre nel ’92, è stata poi portata a termine in 5 giorni da Brendan Murphy e Dave Wills. E ancora nel 1993 dalla solitaria invernale sempre di Alain Ghersen. Questo per dire che se nei suoi primi 10 anni di vita “Providence” aveva avuto non più di 9 ripetizioni, e che la statistica non si è poi alzata di molto con gli anni a venire. Tanto che la frequenza delle salite si può stimare con una o al massimo due cordate all’anno. Tra queste un posto di rilievo hanno quella degli svizzeri Denis Burdet e Nicolas Zambetti, che nel 2002 ne hanno fatto la prima a-vista, e quella dei già citati Luka Krajnc e Luka Lindic. Ma aldilà di tutto questo per comprendere un po’ cosa significhi questa linea bisognerebbe andare lì, affacciarsi sul versante sud del Monte Bianco (quello italiano), passare per la Brenva… Insomma occorre entrare nel cuore della montagna selvaggia. Come hanno fatto la guida alpina Andrea Di Donato e il francese Bertrand Lemaire, 47enne matematico di stanza a Roma che ha riscoperto l’arrampicata e l’alpinismo sul Gran Sasso…

DIVINE PROVIDENCE: UNA GRANDE AVVENTURA, NON C’È CHE DIRE
di Andrea Di Donato

Sì, ma certo, facciamo qualcosa prima… ceche sei matto? Non vorrai mica buttarti sul Pilier d’Angle direttamente da Roma, con un solo Velino sulle spalle!! Naturalmente se poi arriva la finestra buona dobbiamo andare subito. Naturalmente la finestra arriva subito e partiamo. Io ho due mesi di monte Bianco sulle spalle, Bertrand un Velino. Ma lui è un Gallo, lui ha fibra, lui scalava sui blocchi di Fontainebleau con Alain Ghersen quando aveva 14 anni. E le storie si intrecciano, le storie di chi ha fatto la storia. E già, perché il mitico Alain Ghersen (insieme a Thierry Renault ndr), nel 1990, l’ha salito per la prima volta in libera, la mitica Divine (un po’ di storia), e nel 2002 ha effettuato la prima solitaria invernale. Ora sono io che incontro spesso Alain alla compagnia delle guide qui a Chamonix… Salut, Ca va?!

Un sogno, un sogno questa Divine, la Perla di Gabarrou e Marsigny… e le storie si intrecciano di nuovo: Gabarrou al Tete Rousse mi regala una rivista con le vie dell’Argentera, e poi lavoro con Christian Appertet, una guida di Annecy, che aveva aperto con Gabarrou una via sulla punta Margherita alle Jorasses. Gli parlo del mio progetto… questo è il mio ultimo Bianco, poi dieci giorni off, vogliamo scalare Divine P… bien bien!!… il giorno dopo mi porta un leggerissimo sacco da bivacco per due… non l’ha mai utilizzato, ma è molto simile a quello che hanno usato con Patrick sulle Jorasses. E’ ricavato da una vela del parapendio.

Il Gran Pilier d’Angle sarà più meno come la Farfalla Bertrà! nel senso che prima o poi vomiterai! ahahaha… diciamo che in teoria più o meno i conti tornano a parte il fatto che è tutto un po’ più sostenuto, più fisico, più psico, più senza spit, più duemilametri traslata verso il cielo.

Valanghe strepitose ai piedi del Pilier d’Angle. Di colpo immersi nella storia, i due piccoli uomini si fermano e ascoltano. La Brenva, la Major, Sentinella Rossa, la Pera… the Wild Side!! Finalmente al col Moore.

Una felice intuizione di Bert, ci porta, dopo un tirello di corda, a bivaccare su una molto comoda cengia. Il francese emozionatissimo, parlerà tutta la notte… una delle poche notti all’addiaccio in cui la temperatura mite mi avrebbe permesso di dormire…

C’eravamo detti: compriamo una corna singola nuova di pacca… ma quanta ne compriamo, 50 o 60 metri?… alla fine avevamo deciso: 55! La mattina ci svegliamo, pronti per partire e con grande amarezza scopriamo che un punto della corda è fottuto! perdiamo circa 8 metri = 47m lift… forse facendo le doppie del col Moore?… boh… di sicuro la notizia renderà la nostra arrampicata molto cauta.

Saliamo lo zoccolo abbastanza veloci, l’arrampicata non è mai troppo difficile, ma la roccia non troppo buona e gli zaini non troppo leggeri, rendono la “cosa” non proprio rapida. Comunque, dopo sei ore circa siamo sotto lo scudo arancione! Da qui, modalità bigwall e sacchi al traino… si scala leggeri!

Ora un poetico sacrificio mi fa prendere, col senno di poi, la decisione più importante. So che lui può farcela, perché è un cazzo di fuoriclasse geneticamente modificato, perché ha le mani grandi e uno sterno da gorilla, e le sue braccia sono lunghe come le mie anche se è più basso. Guardo il primo tiro duro, che mi sarebbe toccato, e già mi vedo appeso a un chiodo o ad aiutarmi su un microfriend! No, vai tu, vai tu che sei un poeta della roccia, vai tu che puoi realizzare il sogno!… E lui va, non deciso come entrambi pensavamo, ma tentenna, riflette, ma alla fine lo incatena, a vista… Ma se questo era il più facile poi che cazzo faccio, dice lui!…. Dovevi solo entrarci dentro Bert, ora sei caldo!

Un bel tirone da alpinisti classici mi porta alla base del grande diedro. Recupero Bert. Siamo nel cuore della via. Ancora un tiro duro per lui, in catena, a vista. Siamo sotto al tiro chiave, appesi in una scomoda nicchia, sotto una vertiginosa fessura strapiombante, un po’ bagnata, dall’aria inizialmente non proprio solida!

Ora il francese dice cose e poi farà le cose che disse! “Ci metto tutto in sto tiro, tutto, quarant’anni di scalata!” Un’altra persona attacca il tiro, non più l’arrampicatore riflessivo delle volte precedenti, ma un essere determinato e fiero che salta chiodi e si spara i piedi in bocca, ma un piede scivola su tratto un bagnato, e mette un ultimo friend finché la fessura diventa buona ma tremendamente fisica ed un gran run-out lo porta fino al blocco incastrato che ti salva il culo! uau!!!…. che botta ragazzi, che emozione!

Arrivo in sosta, con le braccia gonfie e continuo a ripetere: tu non sei normale! tu non sei normale… e siamo felici! Ancora un paio di tiri da alpinista classico e poi il tetto stronzissimo che il francese supera in scioltezza con gli ultimi residui di energia esplosiva!

14 ore di scalata dopo bivacco, vista meravigliosa sul Bianco… tre di notte, partenza, nella nebbia, stanchi, lenti, ma sicuri… alba, Peuterey, lunghissima, piacevolmente tracciata (scopriremo poi dal grande Profit). Bertrand è alla frutta, io sono davvero molto stanco, scopro con dolore che i Bianchi non ti allenano, ma almeno sono acclimatato! Vento e nebbia… non si vede la fine. Bert mi chiede quanto manca, come ai bambini rispondo sempre che siamo quasi arrivati ma non ne ho idea, non si vede che nebbia in alto. Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, Bert vede la cima del sommo Bozzo e vomita per l’emozione! Che eroe, che mito! Divine Providence in libera e a vista… ma dimmi tu! Bertrand Lemaire, escaladeur de reve!

Andrea Di Donato

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