Month: November 2019

London – Givenchy has decided to shake things up a little bit and made the
leap from showing in Paris to showing in New York. The luxury French label
has chosen to show its spring/summer 2016 collection during New York
Fashion Week to coincide with the opening of its new flagship store on
Madison Avenue.

On September 11, Givenchy will host its catwalk show which will be followed
by a celebratory party to mark the opening of the 5,000 square foot
flagship store at 747 Madison Avenue designed by the label’s creative
director Riccardo Tisci. “It’s a very delicate day for America, and so the
show is going to be a celebration of family and love,” said Tisci in an
interview with WWD. The creative director will be working together with
performance artist Marina Abramović to ensure the event is special. “She’s
going to help me to art direct the show. It’s going to be very interesting.”

The store opening comes after the luxury label shut down its
former standalone store on Madison Avenue in 2006, and has been absent from
the city since then – although Givenchy does have two boutiques in the US
at the moment, one in Miami, Florida and another in Wynn, Las Vegas. The
brand has plans to open another stand alone store in Miami’s Aventura Mall
next year, as well as in Milan, Rome and London, with Tisci overseeing the
design of the new units. “It seems like history repeating itself,”
commented Philippe Fortunato, Givenchy CEO and chairman on Tisci’s decision
to show the collection in the US, noting that the jump from showing in
Paris to New York is likely to be a one-off.

Hubert de Givenchy, the founder of Givenchy, introduced his haute couture
and ready-to-wear collections in the US early in his career and made strong
relations with the country’s elite, including Audrey Hepburn. Tisci himself
has always been open in regards to his love for the US and is said to
spend a vast amount of time in New York City. “It gives me so much energy,
and I’m very inspired by the culture,” he said. “I feel free
when I’m there.” News of the change of show locations comes shortly after
Tisci presented Givenchy’s menswear collection in Paris, during Men’s
Fashion Week and saw the creative director call upon his female muses as
well as male muses to showcase the spring/summer 2016 range.

Image: Backstage with Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy menswear SS 16. mffashion_com

Graduate Fashion Week
2015 featured more than 40 universities and showcased over 1,000 promising
fashion graduates, and FashionUnited were on hand to watch the catwalk
showcases and scour the portfolios to bring you the next generation of
fashion designers you need to watch out for.

Our graduate profile series has already featured a number of menswear
designers, reflecting the moment men’s fashion is having, just look at the
recent London Collections: Men this area of fashion is booming, and there
are many promising graduates coming through and today’s interview is with
the talented Suzanna James from Winchester School of Art.

Suzanna James is a knitwear specialist who was awarded the WSA Fashion
Textiles Award by designer Peter Jensen for her ‘The Great Outdoorman’
graduate collection, inspired by the historic role of knitwear in regions
such as the Shetland Isles and Guernsey, and FashionUnited caught up with
her during GFW to find out her inspiration, plans for the future, as well
as her advice for aspiring designers.

Tell us about your graduating collection – what was the inspiration
behind it?

Inspiration initially came from the outdoors; combining my interest in
the natural world and fascination with historical knitting. I found the
geographical homes of iconic stitches specifically inspiring. Fishermen
jumpers became a common theme alongside the landscapes they came from and
so the landscape paintings of Michael Broad were fundamental for my colour
scheme and landscape inspired knit.

What are the signature piece/pieces?

I worked hard developing a modernisation of traditional Guernsey
styles, this has carried through my pre-collection into my final
collection. I’d say that these, along with my felted landscapes, which I’ve
been developing for a couple of years, are my signature pieces.

Did you have a specific audience in mind when designing your final
collection? Who is your target customer?

My collection is called ‘The Great Outdoorman’ and is aimed at those
who want to wear garments that bring a sense of continued but modernised
tradition with it. I hope that the audience of my work will have an
appreciation of the great outdoors or that my work could create this
interest. I’m passionate about sustainability and ethics and used a lot of
ethical materials, this is inextricably linked to a respect for the great
outdoors for me. Hopefully my collection could create respect for these
interests through the materials used or could attract those who already
keep this in mind.

What made you choose to study at WSA?

I transferred there after two years study at the University of
Westminster purely to specialise in knitwear. The facilities at WSA are
second to none. This was the biggest factor in my choice.

As well as university, have you completed any other work
experience?

I went on a few work placements in the first couple of years in my
studies, I had short term work experience at Nicholas Oakwell and James
Long before a longer placement in my second year with Peter Jensen. I
worked on the production team there, I was a huge fan of his SS13
collection which was the main reason I applied there.

What do you plan to do now that you’ve graduated? What are your
plans for your career in the future?

I’m going through the Texprint interview process at the moment, which
is very exciting. There’s a possibility that I would be able to show my
work at Indigo, Premiere Vision and in Shanghai which I’m really excited
about! Otherwise, I am currently applying for internships, one day I would
like to have my own business, but I think getting experience in the
industry for a successful brand is a good idea at first.

Where do you hope to see yourself/your label in five years time?

I’d like to be a knitwear designer for a high end/creative company or
running my own business. I hope I’ll be able to continue the actual making
and knitting process myself.

What was your Graduate Fashion Week/catwalk experience like?

It was great! It was such an enjoyable end to my studies. They have
been a hard slog at times and it made it all worthwhile, as I won this
year’s Fashion Textiles Prize from WSA I have had a lot of interest in my
work. I felt on top of the world!

What designers/labels do you most admire? Who would you love to
work or collaborate with?

Lately I have had the opportunity to talk to a lot of people about
where I would fit in the industry, it has been really encouraging as I have
had a lot of feedback which points me in the direction I wanted to go. For
example, I have always thought my work fitted well in boutique level
brands, and a favourite of mine is Toast, and I have recently been
encouraged to contact them, as well as Paul Smith and Anthropologie among
others.

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

Everyone is so different, but I think it is a fairly overarching
requirement that your studies and career have to be the top of your
priority list, it takes a huge amount of hard work and dedication and you
have to be prepared to give it your all! Having said that, you have to do
what’s best for you personally and that means working in your own way,
don’t feel pressured by the 24/7 working lifestyle if that doesn’t work for
you.

Images: Suzanna James/WSA

British designer Lee Wood, founder of womenswear label L72, has been
crowned the winner of this year’s edition of “Who Is on Next?,” the
emerging talent competition organised by in collaboration with Vogue Italia.

Wood, who has been working alongside Donatella Versace for more than 16
years, launched L72 in January 2015 to give life to his own “personal
aesthetic” and through forms that nod towards the 1950’s he has
reinterpreted the concept of uniforms, evoking an idea of “no- gender”.

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There were eleven finalists across two categories: Blaze, Giuseppe Di
Morabito, L72, Luca Sciascia and Miaoran for ready-to-wear; and Alexander
White, Avanblanc, Bams Moda, Catherine de Medici 1533, Giannico, and Lolita
Lorenzo in the accessories category, all of which presented their
collections to the judging panel during Pitti Uomo last month.

According to AltaRoma, the panel chose Wood for the clothing award for
“the maturity he showed in presenting the collection and his
reinterpretation of the iconic Fifties’ silhouette in a modern and sporty
way.”

Wood was also presented with the special Fashion Valley prize, which
means he will be able to develop a capsule collection with the Prato
textile district that will be presented at an exclusive catwalk show at
January’s edition of AltaRoma.

Giannico’s Nicolò Beretta was awarded the best footwear collection, for
his “exuberance and sense of colour”, while the best bag collection went to
Carol Oyekunle of Lolita Lorenzo.

All the winners will be given the chance to create and sell a special
piece on Italian e-tailer yoox.com.

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Minimalism continues to inspire designers into the Spring/Summer 2015 season, as purist styles evolve with an architectural twist. This week, the trend experts at Trendstop.com bring you their must-have fashion theme Engineers of Elegance, which is currently manifesting in current S/S15 womenswear collections after being initially forecast last fall. Designs with clean, constructed forms explore new dimensions of shape and volume, creating a mood of contemporary sophistication. We see how cool neutral colours saturate architectural silhouettes and stripped-back seasonal shapes, while manipulated garments speak of an Oriental influence. FashionUnited readers can discover three key trends from the Engineers of Elegance S/S15 theme below, spanning colour, material and styling.

Engineers of Elegance

Pale mint green is fused with a pearlescent quality to create Eucalyptus, an essential Spring/Summer shade with a modern appeal. Lightweight fabrics create a look of understated chic, as seen in the form of casual baggy pants or sheer layers. Textural qualities add depth to sports-inspired handbag accessories, while clean white contrasts enhance the forward feel on embellished sweats. Pair this colour with neutral casts of grey, black and white for a directional yet wearable look.

Woven cottons are treated with crisp qualities, offering a stiff fabric that holds its shape. Lending itself well to architectural silhouettes, wrap dresses resemble origami constructions, while wardrobe staples like tees and shirts take on a contemporary must-have status. For a minimal S/S15 statement, look to layer coordinated garments.

Springtime layering is revisited with inspiration drawn from sculpture and Oriental design, demonstrating intriguing ways to approach shape and styling. Masculine tailoring pairs deconstructed coats with baggy pants, while tactile waistcoats work well with crisp embossed underlays. More feminine looks see a focus on dresses, from draped asymmetric midi lengths to elegant shifts with overlapping panels of tonal sheers.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get a free copy of Trendstop’s complete Spring/Summer 2015 Engineers of Elegance Forecast, packed with directional trends across colour, print, material, apparel, accessories, beauty, street style and more, as well as theme influences and key items. Simply click the banner to get your complimentary report.

Trendstop.com is one of the world’s leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L’Oreal and MTV.

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Images courtesy of Trendstop.com: Emporio Armani, Iceberg, Missoni, Grinko, Helmut Lang, DKNY, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Costume National, Fendi, J.W. Anderson, Osman, all Spring/Summer 2014.

Premium fashion label Hugo Boss has made a pledge to go completely fur-free
from its Autumn/Winter 2016 Collections onwards following a series of talks
with The Fur Free Alliance – a decision that has been well received by
leading animal protection charity the Humane Society International, who is
also part of the Alliance.

“Hugo Boss has become a leader in the fashion world by taking a stand
against animal cruelty and ending the use of fur in collections,” said Joh
Vinding, Chairman of the Fur Free Alliance. “The Fur Free Alliance hopes
other luxury brands will follow Hugo Boss’s lead, especially since there
are now so many cruelty-free alternatives that are fashionable and
indistinguishable from the real thing.”

Hugo Boss joins a growing list of brands and retailers who have pledged to
stop using fur in their collections, including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein
and Zalando. The German fashion label’s decision to stop using
rabbit and raccoon dog fur in its collection was cemented in the group
Sustainability Report 2015, published last month. Bernd Keller, creative
and brand director Sportswear at Hugo Boss, explained in the report that
their decision was also linked to a survey previously conducted to learn
more about their customers expectations. In particular quality and
sustainability, concerning animal rights and protection, ranked high.

Hugo Boss to stop using fur in future collections to show luxury can
integrate ethical issues

“If we connect our quality requirements with sustainability, our customers
receive a special statement which they are able to pass on: luxury imbedded
with values,” commented Keller. “Contemporary customers are part of a
generation which is re-evaluating their ethical and fundamental values. We
want to include this generation among Hugo Boss consumers. We demonstrate
through our products that premium and luxury are able to integrate ethical
and environmental issues… Today, we are therefore also successfully
supplying “friendly fur” and “friendly leather” products.” Hugo Boss choice to remove fur from future
collections has been applauded by the Humane Society International.

“Hugo Boss’s firm commitment to go completely fur-free sends a really
powerful message to other luxury brands, that animal cruelty is never
fashionable,” noted Claire Bass, executive director of Humane Society
International/UK. “Every designer or fashion label that features real fur
contributes to normalising what is in actual fact a grotesque industry.
It’s all too easy to forget that behind every fur trim collar or gilet lies
the pain and suffering of once living, breathing animals. So by setting a
new trend of compassion, Hugo Boss is showing that it is never acceptable
for animals to die for the catwalk, and that’s a fashion craze we really
hope other luxury brands will follow.”

Julie Sanders, Country Manager for Four Paws UK, a member of the Fur Free Alliance,
added: “We are delighted that Hugo Boss have taken this massive step
towards a more ethical and compassionate approach to their products, particularly
as it comes at a time when there are signs that fur is actually becoming more popular
again. We hope that this decision from one of the world’s most renowned fashion brands
will create a sea-change and encourage other fashion companies to adopt a similar approach
and end their involvement in this unnecessary cruelty.”

FUR FREE
VICTORY! We’re thrilled that @HUGOBOSS
pledges to drop all #fur
from Fall 2016 collection onwards.
pic.twitter.com/60eWRXd9OR

— Humane Society Int’l
(@HSIGlobal) July 6,
2015

Hugo Boss goes ‘fur-free’ ahead of fur-filled Haute Couture Week in Paris

Hugo Boss’s decision to go fur free comes as Paris Haute Couture Week begins,
which will see numerous designer labels presenting Autumn/Winter ’15-’16
collections adorned with fur. On Wednesday Italian fashion house Fendi will
present its debut couture collection which is based on its history with
fur, led by creative director Karl Lagerfeld. The show, which has been
named ‘Haute Fourrure’ celebrates the longest relationship between a brand
and a designer in the industry. Although many have attempted to appeal to
the designers for his ongoing use of fur, including film icon Brigitte
Bardot together with Peta, Lagerfeld remains steady-fast with his
current opinion on the use of fur in the fashion.

“It’s very easy to say no fur, no fur, no fur, but it’s an industry,” he
said in an interview with the New York Times earlier this year. “Who will
pay for all the unemployment of the people if you suppress the industry of
the fur?…For me, as long as people eat meat and wear leather, I don’t get
the message. I’m very sympathetic. I hate the idea of killing animals in a
horrible way, but I think all that improved a lot. I think a butcher shop
is even worse. It’s like visiting a murder. It’s horrible, no? So I prefer
not to know it.”

Although Lagerfeld and other designer labels would rather remain in the
dark in regards to how an animal is killed for its fur, the Humane Society
International highlights that the most common methods to kill fur animals
in Europe, which include minks, foxes, racoons, rabbits and chinchillas
include being gassed to death in killing boxes and anal electrocution.

Consumer fashion event London Fashion Weekend, which runs biannually
the weekend after London Fashion Week, is moving to the Saatchi Gallery on
London’s King Road for its 30th edition on September 24-27.

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The event, which is run by the British Fashion Council and billed as a
‘fashion festival’, was previously held at Somerset House, and its move
follows the decision by the BFC to relocate London Fashion Week from
Somerset House in September to Brewer Street car park in Soho for the SS16
shows.

Caroline Rush, chief executive British Fashion Council said: “This
summer we want to drive support for a city wide celebration of our
fantastic British fashion industry. In September London’s creativity will
be on the catwalk. From shows at London Fashion Week in Soho to shows at
London Fashion Weekend in Chelsea, we are spreading our footprint across
the city.”

The weekend will feature catwalk shows, talks, pop-up events, as well
as designer shopping at exclusive prices. Tickets will be available from
May 12.

Fashion retailer Uniqlo is collaborating with fashion editor Carine
Roitfeld for autumn/winter 2015 with a womenswear collection that reflects
her “broad experience” showcasing new styles and designers to a global
audience.

Set to launch at the end of October, the Carine Roitfeld Collection is
part of the Japanese fashion retailer’s LifeWear concept, which features
innovative high-quality clothing that promotes comfort to enhance everyday
life. The collaboration will consist of around 40 items and will be
overseen by Roitfeld and Naoki Takizawa, Uniqlo’s design director.

Commenting on the collaboration, Carine Roitfeld said, “I feel joy at
creating new mode expressions. I am constantly asking myself what these
are, and creating new clothing within the Uniqlo LifeWear concept is a
great challenge”.

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“I started from the idea of clothes that I would want to wear myself,
and developed this into clothes that anyone would want to wear, a woman’s
ideal of clothes that make her feel transformed when she wears them.”

Uniqlo partners with Carine Roitfeld for new designer collaboration

Further details of the collaboration has yet to be revealed, just that
the collection will range from “stylish outer to feminine innerwear”, and
will feature “everyday clothing that is functional, comfortable, and
reasonably priced”.

Takizawa, added: “Carine goes to see collections all around the world,
and the visuals that emerge from this relentless pursuit of leading edge
fashion have had a tremendous influence on the fashion industry.

“The clothing depicted in these fresh and innovative visuals, produced
with the fashion world’s most influential creators, seems somehow
triumphant. I believe that a new type of LifeWear will be created through
her work.”

Tadashi Yanai, Fast Retailing chairman, president and CEO, commented:
“Roitfeld is a charismatic fashion editor and influential figure in the
fashion world, and we are extremely happy to present this collection with
her as our collaborative partner. I am pleased that this new collection
will allow us to present our customers worldwide with a new type of Uniqlo
LifeWear.”

Uniqlo has more than 1,500 stores in 16 markets including the UK, the
US, Japan, France, Germany, and Australia, and has partnered with numerous
brands before including French fashion icon Ines de la Fressange, German
designer Jil Sander, British designers Lulu Guinness, Orla Kiely and Laura
Ashley.

Roitfeld is a respected fashion editor and founder of CR Fashion Book,
which combines the collectible aspect of a book with a curated fashion
magazine, as well as being the global fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar
internationally. Prior to this she spent ten years as editor-in-chief of
French Vogue.

Image: Carine Roitfeld by Fe Pinheiro for Uniqlo

New York – NYFW: Men’s has been the talk of the town for several months now. It’s the
first standalone men’s week in the history of the CFDA, and they’ve managed
to land some big names for the schedule, including Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy
Hilfiger, Public School, and Thom Browne. The event is less than three
weeks away, and more than 500 retailers and editors have registered.

The event, which will run from July 13 to the 16, has proven to the CFDA
that the interest for men’s wear is there. The journey to creating NYFW:
Men’s was no easy task, however. For over two years, the CFDA was in talks
with sponsors and major fashion personnel to try and make it a reality.

Amazon and its fashion sites (Amazon Fashion, East Dane, and My Habit), in
addition to Shinola and Dreamworks, were recently joined by Cadillac and
Loews Regency Hotel, to help provide the financial support and hotel rooms
for the European editors that will be attending the event. For years, it
has been discussed that men’s wear deserves its own standalone fashion
week, but, for a while the idea was just a dream. While there are men’s
wear brands that show at NYFW in February and September, designers whose
primary focus is men’s wear have often complained that their shows are
overshadowed by the women’s shows.

The other issue with showing the men’s collections was the timing. While
the timing is not a problem during February, the September shows coming six
weeks after the buying cycle for men’s, so, the shows essentially become
more of a pr presentation and the business aspect is lost. While men’s
fashion week has provided a beautiful solution to this problem, they were
initially met with some pushback.

First ever NYFW: Men’s the talk of the fashion industry

Editors and retailers were reluctant to give up their summer vacations
after spending three weeks attending a full calendar of shows which went
from June 12 to June 28 this year. There was also criticism because a lot
of major U.S. retailers, including Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, and John
Varvatos have usually elected to show in Europe in the past, and if they
had only shown in Europe this year that would leave NYFW: Men’s lacking in
some of the biggest names in American men’s fashion.

Once John Varvatos decided to leave Milan and show his collection at NYFW:
Men’s it really helped the event come full circle. Almost every major
American men’s wear designer is on board, and while designers like Calvin
Klein will be showing the same collections they are showing at the European
shows, the event is still expected to bring in a whole new crowd. Every
editor and retailer doesn’t always have it in their budget to attend the
European shows, so, this will finally give them a chance to see the glory
of a men’s wear show.

Half of the events will be runway shows, and the other half will be
presentations at the events official venue, the Skylight Clarkson Square.
Thom Browne will open the shows on July 14 and John Varvatos will close the
event on July 16. 28 shows will be at the Skylight Clarkson Square, with an
additional 13 shows off-site. Because CFDA owns the Fashion Calendar it has
helped avoid any shows conflicting with each other.

While every designer showing at NYFW incurred some costs, CFDA set up a
fund to help subsidize the cost for some designers who were in need of
financial assistance. They also kick stared a travel fund to help
international editors from pulications like G.Q. France and Esquire U.K.
attend the first ever NYFW: Men’s. Dockers is also creating a platform for
new designers, Axe Premium White will be serving as official beauty label,
and Loews Regency will be providing hotel room gratis to the international
editors.

Fashion GPS will be the events technology provider. All of the sponsors
will be American companies, which is something the CFDA was aiming for to
help set them apart from Europe. CFDA has also selected several ambassadors
to attend the shows, including Dwyane Wade, Victor Cruz, Joe Jonas, Darren
Criss, Marcus Samuelsson, Andy Cohen, Casey Neistat and Tyson Beckford.
NYFW: Men’s has proven to be so popular already that they already have
plans for round two to take place in winter from January 28 – 31, 2016.

This will align with the tradeshows which will be the following Monday
through Wednesday after that week. Steven Kolb, the president of the CFDA,
said to WWD if there was one thing he would have done differently for this
upcoming NYFW: Men’s he would “have more trade show participation in the
beginning.” The City of New York is also doing their part for NYFW: Men’s,
with 100 light posts, bus shelters, and kiosks bolstering the NYFW: Men’s
promotional materials.

While it might have taken years to see it come to fruition, NYFW: Men’s is
certainly shaping up to be everything everyone in the fashion industry ever
dreamed of. It’s been a long time coming, but, it has certainly been worth
the wait. “It’s part of our mission to support American designers. This is
a very historic moment for American fashion,” Kolb said.

photo1:mensfashionpost.com

photo2:whatweadore.com

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From August 17 to 22, (FMD) is going all out to celebrate its 15th anniversary! This special edition will surely entertain with its share of colour, creativity and discoveries. Located for the second year in the heart of the Quartier des Spectacles, FMD, which celebrates and brings together every aspect of fashion and design, is opening up to the world more than ever, welcoming renown guests from Quebec, the U.S. and Europe.

The audacious FMD has a mission to entertain and help visitors discover the creative worlds of fashion and design. Everyone is invited to attend, free of charge, open-air shows at the Quartier des Spectacles. The most important event of its kind in America, FMD manages to bring together each year all players in the sector: 500,000 festival-goers, over ten major brands and close to 75 artists and designers, in addition to fashion schools, distributors and influencers. The event is unique in showcasing a large proportion of local talent.

The impressive 2015 line-up includes nine segments, each of which has many themes.

FMD FASHION
This year, the theme of celebration, sharing and diversity will be surrounding FMD’s main segment. The Festival will showcase the talent and creativity of major brands from Quebec and abroad, focusing on fashion shows featuring the public’s favourite retailers, which are central to FMD. Year after year, the big brands always dazzle, charm and entertain:

Dynamite, La Vie en Rose, Alton Gray, Forever 21, Le Château, Guess, Ardène, Antoine Laoun, Place Ville Marie, Essilor

Outdoor fashion shows by local designers will also be presented to the general public:

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• Montréal Créatif: local fashion, presented by the Montreal Fashion Bureau with Fashion Preview, Ethik BGC and Fibres Collectives, which will feature inspiring creations by over 25 designers.
• The daring MDM (Mode Musique Design) series will transport us each night into the creative world of an emerging designer. WRKDEPT, Atelier Wonder, Joncas and Lafaille will present their designs to live music presented by Saintwoods and video design by MASSIVart.
• INSTA-GLAM by Jason: Curated by artistic director and designer Jason Noël, this runway show will introduce some of Montréal’s best men’s fashion designers.

The Special FMD Events will feature two large-scale fashion shows, specifically created by Groupe Sensation Mode in an eclectic and cosmopolitan style:

• Génération Z: a fully immersive fashion event, presented by LaSalle College. The show invites all Gen Zers to gather and celebrate at a happening inspired by the creative worlds of this emerging and exciting generation.
• Numéro 15: this big party, the closing event at FMD, will be a nod to the 15 years of the Festival. A concept event that will offer a fusion of styles, cultures, fashion and technology embodying a world of communication without borders!

The next generation is forever central to FMD:

• The Cegep Marie Victorin Fashion School will present the collection by the graduates of 2015.
• Expose by Télio: to be shown over three nights, some of the finalists from this celebrated national fashion design competition will present pieces from their latest collections.
• Designer Tricia Crivellaro will present a show on the M.A.D. Stage
• Challenge 12: every day, emerging designers and stylists take on the challenge of creating a piece of wearable art, an original idea from IMPAIR, in collaboration with Télio.

Back by popular demand, FMD will present four fashion shows developed by your favourite bloggers: Hey Dahye, Le Cahier, The Montreal Fashion Society and Fashion is Everywhere.

True to its roots, FMD celebrates diversity in all its many forms, this time with:

• COOLKOALA, DYDH, Kitch’n Swell and Collectif Verge.
• The Sein(s) photo exhibit will link fashion in a positive way to women touched by breast cancer with illustrations by cartoonist Lili Sohn.

FMD DESIGN
The design segment is growing this year, becoming one of the main attractions at FMD. Multidisciplinary designer Jean-Claude Poitras, this segment’s curator, promises fascinating encounters to help discover designers and artistic trends.

• Wood, design material of choice: in 2013, Festival Mode & Design made Québec lumber its design material of choice, in collaboration with the Québec Forest Industry Council. To mark the third year of this partnership, many of FMD’s facilities will be made out of wood: stages for shows, terraces, VIP space and accommodations, all highlighting the beauty of wood.
• Lifestyle Competition – Parklets: second-year students in Environmental Design from UQAM’s School of Design have taken on the challenge to create, from Québec tree families, a “parklet,” a piece of urban furniture to be used as a meeting and relaxation area for all. Out of the 40 student projects, two have been chosen and developed. They will be integrated into the FMD site and the general public will be able to vote for their favourite parklet.
• Coop Établi, a group of designers and manufacturers, will display their outdoor furniture.
• A number of POP-UP Shops will showcase local designers.
• Conferences on the subject of design will be led by prominent speakers.
• In collaboration with the Conseil des métiers d’art du Quebec (CMAQ), Jean-Claude Poitras, curator of FMD Design, will present his favourite design pieces.

FMD BEAUTY
Throughout FMD, popular beauty activities, organized in collaboration with P&G Beauty, will allow festival-goers to learn about make-up trends seen on the biggest runways.

The Open Backstage will welcome visitors throughout the Festival. The general public will be able to watch as models get their hair and makeup done.

Makeup touch-ups and a photo booth are available from Cover-Girl, plus a Pantene Expert “braid bar” and an Olay hydration booth will all be open to festival-goers.

FMD COLLECTIONS in collaboration with P&G Beauty
To celebrate their 35th anniversary, Clin d’oeil magazine will be a partner in the 100% local programming of FMD’s opening night.

Back for a second year, FMD Collections, in collaboration with P&G Beauty, will present the creations of three Canadian designers. To celebrate FMD’s 15th anniversary, this major collective runway show, curated by legendary British milliner Stephen Jones, will be open to the general public and presented outdoors on the Casino de Montréal Runway at the Quartier des spectacles. This prestigious event will showcase the diversity of creations by:

• Harricana par Marlouche
• Bodybag by Jude
• Hip & Bone

The show will also see the start of an artistic encounter between aerial singer APigeon and New York artist Scooter Laforge, who will also present an exhibition at Galerie MX from August 19-31.

From the designs presented at FMD collections, Jean-Claude Poitras will choose a piece that will become part of the collection at the Museum of Costume and Textile of Québec.

FMD CONFERENCES in collaboration with Destination Centre-Ville
This very popular segment of FMD, with Stephane Le Duc as commissioner and MC, will host 15 conferences this year with distinguished guests from Quebec, the U.S. and Europe. FMD Conferences will be held at the Musée d’art contemporain de Montréal. The number of places is limited and tickets are on sale on the FMD site (in collaboration with LaVitrine.com).

FMD MUSIC
Music is at the heart of FMD’s unique ambiance.

• Fashion Music Happy Hour in collaboration with Virgin Radio: every night, athletes play DJ, accompanied by Melt MTL. Joannie Rochette, Charles Hamelin and many others will be on hand.
• Musical performances all week: Laurence Nerbonne, Charles Cozy of Melt MTL, Pieter Oliver, Iris Campo, Qualité Motel, APigeon, Ryan Playground, Wyln, DA-P, Robert Robert, Lost Heroes and our friends from Lunch Beat and Piknic Electronik.
• Piknic Electronik @ FMD: FMD’s scouting team and fashion trucks will arrive at Piknic Electronic on August 9 to find 20 of the most stylish piknickers. The winners will walk down the FMD runway as Piknic will play the best beats and gets the audience dancing.
• Lunch beat: for those of you tired of eating lunch in front of the computer, help is on the way with Lunch Beat and their DJs and food trucks!

FMD SHOPPING

Calling all shopaholics: you won’t know where to look! FMD has enhanced its program just for you:

• 24 fashion and design POP-UP Shops will offer the opportunity to discover and buy local designer creations: Afro Chic, allTRUEist, Atelier SYP, Casablank, Chic Marie, Christine Bijoux, Enzo kay, Ethik BGC, Fay with Love, My Addikt, Pilote et Filles, Procure, Schwiing, Stefanka Lingerie, Zaän, Alice in Montreal, Atelier Ében, Baltic Club, Garçon Fleur, L’Auberge du Chocolat, Le Cartel et Maison 630. In addition, there will be a few brands from Village des Créateurs de Lyon (Blue Mustach, Marie-Antoilette, FST Hand wear) with whom the festival is developing strongs ties!
• 4 fashion trucks on hand every day at FMD: Nomad, La Montrealaise Atelier, OldWIG and Coven. They will take advantage of all being in one place to launch their Fashion Truck Montreal Facebook page.
• The OldWIG crystal ball: festival goers will “swim” across more than 1,000 pieces of clothing to find the prize offered by the Montreal fashion trucks.

FMD CINEMA
At the FMD pre-opening, from August 14 to 16, Cinéma du Parc will showcase films on fashion:
L’AMOUR FOU (EST), BILL CUNNINGHAM NYC, IRIS, VALENTINO THE LAST EMPEROR (FST) AND DIOR AND I (FST).

LUNCH & FASHION
Every day at lunch time, festival-goers can watch and participate in highly entertaining activities, including:

• The Stiletto Race for Le Chaînon, in collaboration with Rouge FM and Montréal Pride. FMD’s kick-off event, held this year with the drag-queens of Montréal Pride! A 200-metre relay and obstacle race with acting ambassador Julie du Page.
• Vibe Pilates: an outdoor pilates session with Valerie Raby.

Festival-goers will also be able to take advantage of a host of daily activities: exhibits, live artistic performances, activities for the little ones, draws, contests, sampling, networking event, photo booths, as well as workshops and conferences by Me, Myself and Montreal.

Genevieve Borne: FMD spokesperson for the seventh year in a row
Genevieve Borne and the FMD have renewed their partnership for the seventh year. “Each year, the Festival greets all those who wish to celebrate their love of design, fashion and music in the heart of Montreal! It’s the opportunity to attend major shows, discover new trends in design and make new musical discoveries. It’s also a chance to meet the big names in the fashion world who come to share with us, at our conferences, their passion for their work and the secrets behind their wonderful achievements. FMD is a must-attend event for lovers of design, fashion and music who enjoy celebrating outdoors, in the heart of the city.”

Photo by Agnieszka S.

”I don’t get out of bed for less than a 10,000 dollars a day,” Linda Evangelista was famously quoted to have said. The era of the supermodel is far behind us, but in this generation there are still significant discrepancies between what ‘top models’ and ‘regular working models’ earn. The daily rate of a model depends on talent, experience, reputation and fame. Luckily, the modelling industry is very diverse and there’s a big difference between the various modelling agencies. A handful of agencies work exclusively with international top names, but there are enough agencies with local models on their books who focus primarily on jobs in the region.

’The top’ and ‘lucrative’ do not always mean the same thing

The remuneration amount is determined based on the type of assignment. First of all, modelling agencies differentiate between daily rates for print and commercial work. A fashion shoot for a magazine naturally also has a commercial element: after all, clothes are being marketed. But because a magazine doesn’t buy the garments itself (and making a refreshing series of photographs actually costs money), it is first and foremost an artistic endeavour. These shoots are therefore labeled as “editorial”. For models, this means a lower daily rate than publications with an aim to generate profit. A day’s work for ELLE – resulting in a six page spread – therefore usually pays less than a commercial shoot in which you feature in the bottom right hand corner of page ten of the brochure. The size of a postage stamp, at that. But that brochure will be distributed in eight different countries. It can be very confusing for outsiders. When I just started modelling, people said: “Good job, getting the cover and big fashion shoot. That must have paid really well!” Naturally, those kinds of jobs are great for your reputation and portfolio. After all, those pictures lead to new assignments, but they certainly aren’t the most lucrative jobs. I know enough models who returned home from Milan or Barcelona after a couple of months with great tear sheets (publications in magazines) and a wealth of new experiences, but who had only managed to break even because of all the costs they made.

To be able to make a living from modelling it is therefore important to book commercial work alongside the sexy magazines and covers; catalogues, campaigns for fashion and cosmetic brands, look books, advertisements, and commercial. Certain hourly, daily and also half-daily rates apply. Most agencies have clear-cut guidelines that apply to each individual model. A surcharge applies to swimwear and lingerie. A buy-out is an extra reimbursement for the commercial use of a model’s face. When a close-up of you is used in commercial productions, you have a right to a buy-out. This reimbursement is defined based on the type of commercial production, such as television, poster or commercial pamphlet. The buy-out is only paid out if the item is actually used and expires if you are cut out of the end product.

Discuss your preferences in advance

Not everyone is aware of these rights. I was once booked by a catering company that had never worked with models before. The foto shoot lasted half a day and the pictures would be used for their brochure. Upon arrival at the studio, the client enthusiastically told me that she had had a brilliant idea the night before. How cool would it be to print the photo’s from the shoot onto their trucks?After all, those trucks drive up and down the country delivering their products. The sketches for how this was supposed to look already lay on the table. In order to visualise the idea, she had downloaded a picture of me from my agency’s website and photoshopped it onto a truck. Apparently, nobody from the team had realised that blowing my picture up was not part of the standard reimbursement for half a day’s work. Their openness meant their intentions were pure, but naive. So I reacted enthusiastically, but told them I would have to call my agency to run the situation by them. Later that day I heard that the company had decided against the plan, when they hear what the extra costs would be. After some afterthought, they decided that the old trucks with pictures of various dishes could be deployed for a few more years.

In the fashion world, terms like ‘buy-out’ and ‘rights’ are more commonplace, although even there you hear similar stories. A colleague who had worked for the catalogue of a well-known mailorder company found out that her picture had been used on a much grander scale when she saw ‘herself’ drive buy on the highway. And when I had posed for a brochure, I received a phone call some weeks later from a friend, who had seen my picture on primetime television. I also once featured in a commercial, for which the contract stated a running time of one year, but which – I later found while innocently zapping through channels – had been quietly extended. Luckily, in cases like these, you have a modelling agency that backs you up and will pick up the phone and put things right for you. Of course, it’s always better to have everything neatly arranged beforehand, so no one is faced with any unpleasant surprises. The same applies to fashion shows. A show is usually also used to shoot the look book, thereby killing two birds with one stone. The models are, after all, ready to go, hair and make-up in place, with an appropriate setting and there is often enough time to photograph the models between catwalk appearances. This saves time and money. But no matter how efficiently you work, the fact remains that this is an extra assignment for the model. Therefore, do not forget to discuss the portrait rights with the modelling agency in advance.

Transparency and trust

Sometimes, jobs don’t go as you had hoped. That one great shoot in the studio with fun props and attributes unfortunately ended on a sour note for me. To my surprise, the client had called to complain to the agency that my hair had been greasy. Impossible, because I had washed my hair the morning of the shoot and hadn’t used any products. Furthermore, the client hadn’t arrived until 11 am, while my call time had been 9 am. My hair had therefore been styled before the client ever showed up. And I had chatted companionably with the hair stylist without her every remarking on the condition of my hair. Unfortunately, situations like these are not uncommon. People will be kind to you on the day of a shoot, and everything goes swimmingly, but the next day the client will be on the phone to the agency to complain about your ‘unprofessional’ behaviour and refuse to pay the (full) amount. This in hopes of getting a discount, and that while the resulting photographs from the shoot end up beautiful and used! A good partnership is based on transparency and trust. Of course, the wishes of the client always come first: if a model looks noticeably different from her photographs – for example, if her roots are showing or she’s been to the hairdresser and has forgotten to notify anyone – then the client has every right to complain. Just don’t wait to complain until after the shoot is over, but immediately call the agency to say that looks of the model don’t correspond with her photographs. Furthermore, discuss your wishes and expectations with the agency in advance. Both parties benefit from a clear, up-front definition of what happens during the shoot and to the resulting photographs. This prevents possible problems at a later stage. And allows you to focus on what really matters: creating a spectacular campaign.

Natasja Admiraal is a freelance fashion journalist, who has worked for FashionUnited since 2008, and also writes about related subjects such as jewellery and design. You might also find Natasja gracing the cover of a magazine: she has been working as a models for the past ten years.

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Photo 1: Photography Joost Konings
Photo 2: Wearing Spijkers en Spijkers during a fashion shoot
Photo 3: Backstage during a fashion shoot for the magazine Vriendin