Gap looks to Italy for expansion

Gap this week announced it would enter the Italian market in 2010 as one of its long term growth investments. Expanding on the international appeal of its London and Paris stores, the company plans to open Gap and Banana Republic flagship stores next door to each other in Milan’s leading shopping area on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele in late 2010 with additional openings in other Italian cities such as Rome to follow in 2011. As a globally renowned fashion and tourist centre, Milan offers a strong initial market for both brands.

“As we continue to expand our global presence and deliver our customers great product, we are excited to enter another market that’s also one of the top five apparel markets in the world,” said Stephen Sunnucks, President Europe and International Franchise at Gap Inc. “With loyal shoppers already in London and Paris, we think Gap Inc.’s brands will strongly resonate with Italian customers.”

Each of the stores will be wholly owned and operated by Gap Inc. leveraging the company’s existing European teams and distribution infrastructure. The 25,500 square foot Gap flagship store in Milan will span three floors, and house collections from Gap, GapKids, babyGap, GapBody, and GapMaternity. Since opening its first store in San Francisco in 1969, today there are about 3,100 Gap Inc. stores across the world, with more than 170 Gap brand stores in Europe. Gap’s style is rooted in simple, easy to wear pieces that form the foundation of any wardrobe – the jean, the khaki, and the pocket tee. The brand epitomizes casual cool which transcends trend making it easy for people to express their personal style.

Founded in 1978, Banana Republic has established itself as a brand that offers a range of great versatile wardrobe solutions, delivering elevated design and luxurious fabrications at approachable prices. The 17,500 square foot Banana Republic flagship store in Milan will house the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, accessories and personal care products. In renovating this flagship space, Banana Republic will retain the building’s rich history while combining contemporary and traditional elements to evoke the brand’s essence of affordable modern luxury. Banana Republic aims to create the best of city style, that attitudinally works across all hub cities – from New York, to Tokyo, to London and now, to Milan.

The company also announced today plans to bring an online shopping site for Gap and Banana Republic to the United Kingdom, which will also serve online shoppers in nine other European countries, including Italy.

Image: Gap logo

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Hermès takes leather exhibition to Japan

Hermès is taking its Leather Forever exhibition to Japan. Showing in
Shanghai, Rome, London, Madrid, Taipei and Hong Kong, Hermès’ retrospective
retraces the house’s history, starting with its founding in 1937 by the
tanner Thierry Hermès.

At the time its high-quality equestrian equipment earned him success and
were sought-after by high-level horsemen and women across the world.

With the Kellybag, the Birkin, and distinctive orange coloured leather
goods, over the centuries Hermès’ skilled craftsmen have cultivated their
expertise handing it down from generation to generation.

Leather Forever sheds light on every step of their craft, from the leather
cutters, to the tanners and finishers, in a celebration of fine equestrian
legacy, that takes in the leather colour palette and the chance to see
unique vintage pieces.

Pearl Oscars dress worn by Nyong’o stolen

The pearl-encrusted 150,000 dollars dress worn by Kenyan star Lupita
Nyong’o at the Oscars last weekend was stolen from the actress’s Los
Angeles hotel room, police confirmed Thursday.

“It has been confirmed that it is the dress that was worn by Lupita
Nyong’o,” Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department spokeswoman Nicole
Nishida said.

Nyong’o, who won a best supporting actress Oscar last year for her
performance in the drama “12 Years A Slave”, created a sensation on the red
carpet on Sunday with her elaborate custom-made Calvin Klein gown designed
by Francisco Costa.

The stunning dress was adorned with some 6,000 white pearls. The gown was
stolen from a room at the London West Hollywood hotel just off Sunset
Boulevard, Nishida said. The theft was reported late Wednesday, police
added.

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No arrests have been made in connection with the theft, the Los Angeles
Times reported. (AFP)

New York Fashion Week booted out of Lincoln Center

Fashion Week will be booted out of
Lincoln Center for causing disruption to an adjacent park, under a legal
settlement between the city and local activists.

The ruling was reached after the fashion extravaganza, run by IMG
Worldwide, was accused of misusing Damrosch Park, where trees and perennial
plantings were removed.

Under the decision, special events should be the exception rather than the
norm, and so the twice annual event will not be able to renew its five-year
license when it expires in February.

Neither will the park be able to host similar such events. The city is now
working actively with IMG Fashion to find alternative locations for Fashion
Week, which earns New York nearly 900 million dollars, and
which has been based at Lincoln Center since 2010.

“Upon the expiration of its sublicense agreement, IMG Fashion shall vacate
the premises and remove all tents and other Fashion Week equipment from the
park,” said the settlement.

The agreement was signed by Margaret Chan, a New York state supreme court
judge. New York Fashion Week has anyway increasingly moved away from
Lincoln Center, with some of the most prestigious designers choosing to
hold catwalk shows in hotels or other prominent buildings.

Damrosch Park will be replanted with shrubs and trees. (AFP)

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New York getting standalone men’s fashion week

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has announced that
it is launching its own dedicated menswear fashion week, underlining the
growing importance of menswear fashion not just in American but globally.

The standalone showcase, New York Fashion Week: Men, will kick off with
the spring/summer 2016 shows, running from July 13-16 at Skylight Clarkson
Square in Manhattan, and will pave the way for a biannual event to rival
that of London Collections: Men, Pitti Uomo and Paris, where most menswear
designers currently showcase their new collections.

“American menswear has never been stronger or more creative. There are
many reasons the CFDA is launching New York Fashion Week: Men’s,” said
Steven Kolb, CEO of the CFDA. “It gives the designers a business platform
to show during their market dates and is an opportunity to demonstrate the
collective talent of an important segment of our industry.”

Kolb added: “The effort to create standalone men’s shows is not just
backed by CFDA and participating designers, but also by the American
editors and retailers who have contributed as we have built this, and they
will continue to be involved in our planning.”

CFDA launching dedicated menswear fashion week in New York

New York Fashion Week: Men’s will feature a combination of runway
shows, presentations and special events, and the CFDA has stated that
designers including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein Collection, Michael Kors,
Rag & Bone, Public School, Billy Reid, Todd Snyder, Michael Bastian, Ovadia
& Sons, Robert Geller, Duckie Brown, Patrik Ervell, Timo Weiland and Kent
and Curwen have confirmed their participation at the inaugural event.

Amazon’s portfolio of fashion sites, which include Amazon Fashion, East
Dane, and MyHabit, will serve as ‘Presenting Sponsors’, with additional
support from Detroit-based leather goods company Shinola.

Commenting on their partnership, Cathy Beaudoin, president of Amazon
Fashion, said: “When the CFDA decided to create a dedicated men’s fashion
week in New York, we knew we wanted to help in a meaningful way.

“We are committed to our menswear business across Amazon Fashion, East
Dane, and MyHabit, and are proud to support an initiative that both
celebrates strong design and talent, and solves a very real challenge for
menswear designers today.”

New York Fashion Week: Men will take place from July 13-16 at Skylight
Clarkson Square.

Image: Public School SS15

Paris Men’s Fashion Week Day 1 & 2

Valentino opted for utility chic during its AW15 men’s presentation in Paris on
Thursday. Inspired by images of the Ballet Russes in Paris and the Beat
generation in San Francisco, their ideas were translated by Australian
artist Esther Stewart, whose signature geometric patterns were featured on
tailored overcoats, parkas, bomber jackets and knitwear. Even their
signature camouflage, pale and deconstructed in a grey tones, looked fresh
and new.

Raf Simons presented a directional collection, with graffiti lab coats
and flared trousers as a new way of dressing next season. It was 70s
rockstar, with hints of rebelling youth with a mix of sportswear thrown in.
The graffiti prints found themselves on a long and lean silhouette, such as
sleeveless, raw edged lab coats, and worn with knitted trousers that seamed
to flare at the end. Colours included white with flashes of bright yellow
and red alongside browns and black. Simons’ tailoring was remixed with
outerwear that never steers far from his futurist path.

British designer Christopher Nemeth served as the inspiration for the
AW15 Louis Vuitton collection. Nemeth’s codes for the deconstruction trend in the
eighties were seen in original prints such as hand-drawn rope-like patterns
crafted onto outerwear, trousers and knits. Denim came needle-punched and
was teamed with luxurious indigo cashmeres and outdoors parkas. Sport,
luxury and travel were at the heart of this collection.

Rick Owens may or may not have anticipated that a little male nudity can
send shockwaves to the public. When a woman’s nipple is exposed on a
catwalk nobody bats an eyelid, but barely a glimpse of a man’s genitalia
and we are reduced to oohs, ahhs, and a media storm of commentary. What was
mostly a conservative show for Owens, with double breasted coats in
leather, suede and canvas, it was the toga gowns and curved hemlines that
were Owens’ more challenging silhouettes. When asked why he chose to expose
the models, Owens stated: “Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture, it
packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something
about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s
a corporate world!

Dries van Noten took Historical references and subtle Eastern elements to
present his collection, which always resonates with a luxurious nomadic
spirit. Navy and khaki were the primary colours with key styles including
overcoats and shirts were embellished with silver ornaments and quilted
blazers warn apron-like kilts over trousers highlighted. Traditional coats
and blazers were worn inside out to parade the delicate quilted linings in
tricolour satin.
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Pantone picks Marsala as colour of 2015

A naturally robust and earthy wine red, known as Pantone 18-1438
Marsala has been announced as the global authorities colour of the year for
2015.

Described as a ‘rich and charismatic’ hue, Marsala is impactful,
full-bodied and makes an elegant grounded statement, according to Pantone,
plus the winning colour has already been spotted on the spring/summer 2015
catwalks at Hervé Léger by Max Azria and Dennis Basso.

“While captivating Radiant Orchid, the 2014 colour of the year,
encouraged creativity and innovation, Marsala enriches our mind, body and
soul, exuding confidence and stability,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive
director of the Pantone Colour Institute. “Much like the fortified wine
that gives Marsala its name, this tasteful hue embodies the satisfying
richness of a fulfilling meal while it’s grounding red-brown roots emanate
a sophisticated, natural earthiness.”

Eiseman, adds: “This hearty, yet stylish tone is universally appealing
and translates easily to fashion, beauty, industrial design, home
furnishings and interiors.”

Pantone names Marsala as colour of the year for 2015

The fact that the hearty tone is complex without being overpowering is
why it is universally appealing and translates easily to fashion and
beauty, according to Pantone. With the ever-growing popularity of floral
prints and striping, variations of this hue will undoubtedly carry into
men’s and women’s clothing throughout next year.

Pantone also predicts that Marsala will be a popular choice for
jewellery and fashion accessories, including handbags, hats, and footwear,
as well as the burgeoning market of wearable technology.

Due to Marsala’s full-bodied qualities, the colour makes a great
statement on its own or as a compelling accent when paired with many other
colours, making it a versatile option. It can be paired with neutrals,
including warmer taupes and greys, and because of its burnished undertones,
Marsala is also highly compatible with amber, umber and golden yellows,
greens in both turquoise and teal, and blues in the more vibrant range.

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Pantone’s yearly picks can mean an increased presence of a colour
across not only fashion, but beauty, homewares, graphic design and consumer
packaging. Last year the forecasters picked a tasteful tropical purple,
Radiant Orchid, the year before it was Emerald green, and in 2012 it was a
vibrant Tangerine Tango. Marsala marks the darkest colour of the year since
Pantone introduced the initiative 15 years ago.

Fendi wins over audience during Milan Fashion Week

Like a luxurious chocolate pudding, the Fendi autumn/winter 2015 show left
Italy’s fashion world drooling Thursday with its sumptuous suede and
leather creations and bird of paradise bags.

The Roman fashion house under creative director Karl Lagerfeld — present
in his trademark dark glasses — upheld its reputation for multi-fabric
outfits, with patchwork and leather panels stitched loosely onto tunics and
dresses.

First up was a selection of white and cream ensembles, led by Victoria’s
Secret beauty Doutzen Kroes in a beautifully tailored high-waisted loose
coat, after which the catwalk gave way to earthy tones dominated by browns,
reds, camel and brick.

Sleeveless tunics in suede were paired with velvet elbow-length gloves
trimmed with fur — a Fendi staple — while simple, high-necked dresses
with a masculine cut were softened by box handbags sporting feather-like
adornments.

Black ermazine shifts were given large leather panel sides, tacked on
lightly and freely moving, or paired with leather smocks suggestive of
female gladiators — matched with brown and black ankle boots with diamond
heels.

While Gucci’s new director Alessandro Michele plumped for furry slippers in
his debut womenswear collection on Wednesday — raising a number of
eyebrows on the catwalk’s the front row — Lagerfeld opted for sleeker
boots.

Die-hard Fendi girls will no longer have to put up with catching cold as
the price for looking good, for the collection included duvet-style
jackets, with vast fur collars and even a brown and white patchwork dress
in quilting.

And for the very brave, there was an oversize beanbag dress and coat — but
ordinary mortals beware, you may end up looking rather like Humpty Dumpty.
(AFP)

Boohoo bans angora

Online fashion retailer Boohoo has become the latest brand to ban the
use of angora in its products following pressure from animal rights group
Peta.

The move came after the fashion e-tailer was given evidence by Peta Asia
with regards the cruel and inhumane practices during the harvesting process
at Chinese farms, which source 90 percent of the world’s angora fur.

Boohoo follows a host of retailers who have also pledged to ban angora
from its products including most recently Lacoste and Monsoon Accessorize,
as well as Asos, Forever 21 and H&M.

In a short statement, Boohoo said: “As a result of recent investigations
by Peta [Asia], which have uncovered cruel and inhumane practices during
the harvesting process, boohoo has committed to a ban on the use of angora
in any of its products.”

Peta UK’s Mimi Bekhechi, added: “By banning all angora products from its
international websites, Boohoo has done the right thing for animals and
consumers. Angora production is cruel, and Peta urges all remaining
retailers to follow Boohoo’s example and show that cruelty to animals has
no place in their stores.”

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Designing Disruption: What’s now, what’s new, what’s next?

How are fashion brands using technology to innovate, which brands are working outside the box and how can labels take the next step into the future, are just a few of the questions asked by TrueStart, the retail and consumer innovation hub supported by sector specialist investor True Capital and Land Securities.

During the R:evolution 2.0 conference, JC Oliver, Global Head of Innovation, Microsoft shares his thoughts and opinions on the future of fashion and innovation as well as tips as how fashion brands can be innovative. “Innovation is nothing unless it is applied. If you do not apply innovation, it just remains a very expensive hobby if you are not rich.”

TrueStart, in partnership with Land Securities, helps support innovation in the retail and consumer sectors, with the aim of taking the most cutting-edge technology into the retail sector. Housing up to 20 new businesses a year in Victoria, London, the innovation hub brings together entrepreneurs, retailers and creatives to develop and test the latest retail ideas.

Stay tuned for the next episode in the series ‘Engaging your customer: The power of content marketing” appearing June 3.

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