Temperley’s Circus Zoetrope

Fashion label Temperley London unveiled the Circus Zoetrope project to celebrate its SS10 collection to global audiences. Temperley London partnered with Milk Studio’s Emmy, nominated film division Legs, to create the travelling interactive installation. The Circus Zoetrope was officially presented to press and fashion buyers during New York and London Fashion Week and will continue to travel to different markets for the remainder of the year.

Keeping with the collection’s Circus theme, professional acrobats, contortionists, and circus performers were hired along with models to create moving images that both showcased the Spring Summer 2010 collection and the spirit of a circus. Wrapped around the spinning zoetrope, the frames taken from the 10 short films produce an illusion of action with an old film feel.

Temperley London also released a behind the scenes look at The Making of the Zoetrope on their newly redesigned multimedia website. With the interactive video the brand wants to reinforce its ideology of showcasing their collections in a new and innovative ways.

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Mango worldwide; an interview with Enric Casi

The Catalan fashion chain, Mango, which tops the European market for the most stores open, continues its international expansion plan despite the crisis and aims to open establishments all over the world. FashionUnited talks to Mr. Enric Casi, Mango’s General Manager and Partner.

FU: Which new markets has Mango entered during 2009?
Mango has over 1300 shops in 95 countries. In 2009, it entered the Dutch Antilles, Byelorussia, Guatemala, Iraq, Iran, Martinique and New Caledonia for the first time.

FU: Which markets does Mango expect to enter in the near future?
We want to enter all markets whenever we find places that interest us. In Europe, each country has the capacity for 400 stores and there still a lot to be opened. In Spain, we already have 300 sales points. In France, for example, we only have 100 stores. In the meantime, we are focusing on Europe, China and Japan because they are very demanding sophisticated and affordable fashion markets. We have new sales points in Belgrade, Dubai, Kuwait, Johannesburg, Manila, Moscow, New Delhi, New York, Paris, Peking, Tehran and Tokyo.

FU: If the economy stays flat over the next few years, is the firm still going to keep opening stores every year?
Our idea is to open 200 stores a year regardless of the crisis.

FU: Which is the best market now in terms of sales? And benefits?
Spain has the most stores, which is reflected by its sales. With regard to benefits, turnover is greater in Spain. Turkey is a very interesting country for us in terms of sales and benefits.

FU: How could you compare your international strategy with that of Inditex?
Mango has stores in more countries than Zara. Zara has more product lines than Mango. It has clothes for women, men, children and the home. We have been working almost exclusively with women and men’s clothing for one year now but we want to enter countries that prefer quality and sophisticated products.

FU: Where are your products made?
China represents 50 per cent of our production, Morocco 20 per cent and the rest is made in Turkey and Eastern countries like Romania and Bulgaria. Each country is specialised in one production phase.

FU: Have you had to adopt any important measures due to the world crisis such as renegotiating lease agreements, altering working hours, lay-offs or adjusting salaries?
Business has dropped with the crisis. But everything is pretty much the same. The only difference is that we have renegotiated some lease agreements and we have closed some shops due to the expiry of the franchise contract.

FU: Does Mango use Facebook as a real communication tool and do you think it more efficient in terms of communication than your own website?
Mango is still investing in interactive formats to introduce fashion to net surfers. In this case, we have launched a new application on the famous social network, Facebook, where users can interact and create their own Mango wardrobe.

FU: For the first time ever, ‘He by Mango’ has exhibited at the latest ‘Who’s Next’ in Paris. Have you thought about participating in other fashion fairs next year?
We hope to participate in HKTDC World Boutique Hong Kong and Franchise Expo Paris in 2010.

Arcadia Group sees profits rise

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Arcadia Group, the retail powerhouse that owns Topshop, Miss Selfridge, and BHS, revealed its financial results for the 52 weeks ended 29 August. The group saw pre tax profit of £213.6m, up 13.0% from £188.9m and an operating  profit of £266.2m, up 2.1% from £260.7m. Total sales up 2.7% at £1,897.7m. UK like for like sales were level on last year.

Commenting on the announcement Sir Philip Green said: “I am pleased to report pre tax profits of £214m, up 13%, together with cash generation of over £330m, despite one of the most challenging retail landscapes that I have seen.

The Arcadia Group and all the people working in it can be proud of these results. An excellent understanding of the market place and of our different brands has combined to provide our customers with great product and an exciting store and online shopping environment. I believe the focus on operational efficiency, managing our costs and cash, together with the ability of our global supply chain, will enable the business to continue to grow.

Once again, our leading fashion brands Topshop, Topman and Miss Selfridge have had an excellent year, producing record turnover and profit. The Topshop and Topman teams also successfully delivered our first American store in Soho, New York in April of this year.

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Having completed the integration of Bhs, the enlarged Group now operates from 3,115 owned and franchised outlets and trades in 34 countries. UK like for like sales in the first seven weeks of the new financial year were up 2.3%.

In respect of the year ahead, I remain optimistic but cautious as I believe the market will remain challenging and price sensitive. The VAT increase, unemployment and a general election will all impact upon the market.

Finally, I would like to thank all the people at the Arcadia Group for their hard work and commitment and all of our customers for their continued loyalty.”

Image: Topshop SS09

The end of an era: Germany’s retail giant Arcandor is broke

In Germany, the largest retail group in the country is presently facing the end. However Arcandor AG, with its head office in Essen, is no victim of the economic crisis. Rather the company has collapsed as a result of general management errors and an excessively visionary company policy that all too often failed to operate on the basis of reality.

The Arcandor era originally began with two equally good and successful ideas: On the one hand there was Rudolph Karstadt, who pursued the plan back in 1881 to open a department store in which all things essential for daily life were located under one roof and constantly available at reasonable prices. On the other hand, a Mr Schickedanz also played a big roll in the subsequent history of Arcandor. He founded the mail-order company Quelle in 1927 and was thus the first retailer in Germany to deliver goods from a catalogue to his customers in their homes.

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Both companies enjoyed success in the years that followed their establishment, and both expanded quickly. Following the end of the Second World War and during the economic boom period of the 1950’s in particular, Karstadt and Quelle developed to become synonyms of the prosperous German economy. In 1977 Karstadt expanded to become Germany’s largest retailer, with a turnover of almost eleven billion D-Mark. In 1999 Karstadt and Quelle finally announced that they were to merge to become KarstadtQuelle AG, the largest retail group in the Federal Republic of Germany with 116,000 employees and an annual turnover of 32 billion Euros.

However, the prestigious project was to be anything but a story of success. Shortly after the merger, the companies reported that they intended to economise and make around 7,000 employees redundant, although they were also set to purchase the textile chain SinnLeffers. This marked the onset of delusions of grandeur, which were to cost the group its very existence a decade later.

From 2002, KarstadtQuelle returned harsh losses. Rotations at board level followed market entries into Eastern Europe and other emergent nations, whilst the direction and strategy of the group became increasingly removed from the true demands of the market. A vast, faceless range of average fashions, lifelessly displayed on overfilled clothes rails, characterised the image of Karstadt department stores, whilst shopping centres, individual label and flagship stores for major brands became a long-term threat in town centres. The upshot: Customers turned away from Karstadt. Back in 2004 the company was already experiencing serious financial difficulties, resulting in the closure of 77 deficient stores across the country.

After a brief interim high in 2006, during which KarstadtQuelle suddenly enjoyed profits of almost 350 million Euros again, the company management opted to change the name. KarstadtQuelle became Arcandor. Company boss Thomas Middelhoff concentrated wholly on the shareholder value principle and focussed primarily on the dividend payments to shareholders. The consequences of the terms “reorganisation” and “restructuring” were felt with growing frequency. In 2008, the liabilities of Arcandor AG stood at around 1.5 billion Euros and with them came the threat that a number of expiring credit lines would not be extended. Soon, the talk at the head office in Essen was no longer of restructuring but rather of rescue. As the successor to Middelhoff, the former financial director of the telecoms company Telekom, Karl-Gerhard Eick, was tasked with bringing Arcandor back to profitability at the beginning of this year.

Eick quickly discovered that the group actually had debts of 2.6 billion Euros, of which a considerable portion was repayable in June 2009. Furthermore, Karstadt and Quelle sales rapidly declined even further. Eick desperately attempted to raise fresh funds. However, the major shareholder Sal. Oppenheim did not wish to proceed with recapitalisation and the federal government, when beseeched with requests for aid, refused to ally itself with the company. The upshot: On the 9th June 2009 Arcandor was forced to register its insolvency.

Just three days later the public attorney’s office in Essen initiated embezzlement proceedings against the former manager Thomas Middelhoff.

The insolvency proceedings have since commenced and the one-time largest retail group in Germany is now facing asset stripping. Once this is complete the workforce, which once stood at more than 100,000 employees, will be reduced to around 5,000 members of staff and even this number is highly questionable. A few profitable Karstadt stores will be taken over by the Arcandor competitor Metro, and integrated into its department store chain Galeria Kaufhof. In contrast, it is entirely unclear what will happen to the former mail-order giant Quelle. The company is initially set to be streamlined in order to make it attractive to any potential investors, although it is presently impossible to foresee whether and when there will be any chance for the remaining Arcandor subsidiary in the future. However, one thing is for certain: A great German corporate vision has transcended into one of the most spectacular crashes ever witnessed in the Federal Republic of Germany.

McQueen’s right hand designer appointed Creative Director

Alexander McQueen and Gucci Group, part of PPR, announced Sarah Burton has been appointed Creative Director of the Alexander McQueen brand. Sarah will supervise the creative direction and development of all collections of the brand going forward. Sarah Burton has worked in the design studio with Lee Alexander McQueen since 1996. She has been Head of Women’s design since 2000.

Sarah Burton commented on this announcement by saying: “The creation of modern beautifully crafted clothes was at the heart of Lee’s vision. I intend to stay true to his legacy.”

Commenting on this announcement, Jonathan Akeroyd, President and CEO of Alexander McQueen, said: “We are delighted that Sarah has agreed to take on the role of Creative Director. Having worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years, she has a deep understanding of his vision, which will allow the company to stay true to its core values. Sarah is extremely talented and under her creative leadership we are ready to enter a new phase in the brands history.“

Robert Polet, President and CEO of Gucci Group, added: “As a business we remain absolutely committed to the Alexander McQueen company which has proven to have strong customer loyalty and has shown to be a resilient brand in the aftermath of the tragic loss of its founder. Sarah has real talent, a close understanding of the brand, and the vision necessary to take it forward. We will be giving full support to Sarah and the team in the coming years.”

British-born Sarah Burton hails from Manchester and studied fashion at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London graduating in 1997. She joined Alexander McQueen in 1996, before graduating. 2

Image: Sarah Burton

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Customer loyalty conference

Retailers struggling to keep their customers base in turbulent economic year will be pleased to hear of The Retail Bulletin Customer Loyalty Conference.

With less disposable income in their pockets and a variety of shopping channels at their fingertips, today’s shoppers are becoming more and more difficult to retain. With higher expectations of customer service and an increased demand for lower prices; keeping customers loyal in today’s challenging economy is the key to retail survival.

The conference will address issues about focusing on your customer to understand their needs, how can you keep them loyal in a multichannel marketplace and how can you decide which loyalty initiatives you should choose. Key speakers on the day include executives from Marks & Spencer.

The event takes place on 22 June 2010 in Central London.

Kate Moss to go to Paris?

Rumours that Kate Moss is to cross the channel for good, have been quashed. As one of the few icons whose style is synonymous with all things London, Kate Moss seems to be sticking to her hometown after reports she is moving permanently to Paris, France.

According to WWD, British press reports published earlier this month that suggested Moss plans to relocate to Paris aren’t true. The reports claimed Moss had made a down payment on a 22.5 million euro, apartment in the Trocadero area of Paris. It’s particularly handy Moss isn’t quitting London since earlier this month she won the London 25 award at this year’s British Fashion Awards. The award celebrates an individual who “embodies the spirit of London,” and acts as an “ambassador” for the city as a creative capital.

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McQueen’s death fueled by drugs

Fashion designer Alexander McQueen hanged himself after taking a mix of cocaine, tranquillisers and sleeping pills, an inquest has concluded.

He was under huge pressure from work and “overwhelmed with grief” at the loss of his mother, the court heard. The 40-year-old’s body was found at his London flat on 11 February – the eve of his mother Joyce’s funeral.

McQueen’s psychiatrist, Dr Stephen Pereira, told the inquest that the leading designer was diagnosed with mixed anxiety and depressive disorder. “The balance of his mind was disturbed,” said coroner Dr Paul Knapman, recording a suicide verdict.

His psychiatrist added usually after a show McQueen felt a huge come-down – he felt isolated, it gave him a huge low. “He certainly felt very pressured by his work, but it was a double-edged sword,” Pereira said. “He felt it was the only area of his life where he felt he had achieved something.”

Before McQueen died he had been making final preparations for his spring collection to be unveiled in Paris. He was named British designer of the year four times after 1996.

His close friend, fashion stylist Isabella Blow who helped launch his career, killed herself in 2007.

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Free Range launches Fashion Week

As part of its 10th anniversary celebrations, artisan platform Free Range announces a new fashion category with 3 days of graduate fashion shows. The project by Old Truman Brewery supports new graduate artists and designers. Until now Free Range has presented graduate exhibitions in the creative disciplines of Art, Photography, Design, Graphics and Interiors. Now Free Range will extend its support to graduate fashion designers offering a catwalk-space to graduate fashion shows.

The programme will be from 2-4th June featuring graduates from Winchester School of Art, Middlesex University and Sommerset College. The Old Truman Brewery has a history of supporting and facilitating artists and designers. In 2000 ‘Truman Brewery Special Projects’ launched Free Range and Fashion East.

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Scouting for designers

Vauxhall Fashion Scout opens it search for the next generation of new and emerging designers to show, present or exhibit their work.

The Ones To Watch initiative will enable new talent to showcase their collections on an international platform to buyers and the media, while the inaugural Merit Award will be awarded to the best new designer (previous winners include William Tempest, David Koma and Hermione de Paula) and offers a generous three season award enabling designers to successfully build their business.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is now entering its ninth season and successful designers will be judged based on their creativity, quality of work and business level of the brand by a panel of industry experts. Applications are now open from 1 May 2010 and close on 31 May 2010. Designers wanting to find out more about the Merit Award should visit the website.

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