Month: November 2019

Levi Strauss, arguably the pioneer of all denim brands, is no stranger to the premium jean. It was the first company to revolutionise the industry with its ‘Engineered’ jean, a time when £100 for a pair of jeans was an absurd price to pay. Now, with its new Red collection, Levi’s Europe is launching its most premium line to date, hoping to attract high end boutiques around Europe to stock its newest jeans, with a price tag to match.

“Since the brand’s debut, Levi’s has always been about jeans designed for pioneers,” You Nguyen, senior vice president of Levi’s product for Levi Strauss Europe told WWD. “Red is for the pioneers of tomorrow.”

Launched in 1999 as a one-shot collection, the new uber-conceptual Levi’s Red line is a resurrection of sorts. “For the new line, we have once again challenged the proportions of the traditional Levi’s five-pocket jeans,” explained Nguyen. “We deconstructed a traditional style and reinterpreted every aspect of the construction, driving it into different volumes, shapes and proportions in every single way.”

The extensive Levi’s archives serves as inspiration for the collection its archives to uncover some of its most cherished cartoon characters used in advertisements from the Forties and Fifties. Interpretations of iconic characters from yesteryear such as a lanky cowboy called Sidewalker, the bowlegged Saddleman and the circular Lasso Man were morphed into seven denim styles for men and women. To ensure exclusive appeal, Levi’s hopes to sell its collection in specialty shops across Europe such as Dover Street Market in London, Berlin’s The Corner and L’Eclaireur in Paris, as well as select Levi’s flagships.

Tommy Hilfiger is believed to have licensed its Karl Lagerfeld brand to Italian manufacturer Vaprio Stile.  According to Women’s Wear Daily, the production and distribution agreement takes effect with the AW 2008 collection Lagerfeld is due to show during Paris Fashion Week early next year.

According to market sources, Hilfiger has also been exploring the possibility of a Lagerfeld collection for mass distribution in the U.S., eager to duplicate the popularity the brand gained three years ago when H&M launched a one-off Lagerfeld collection for holiday retailing.

Regatta Pacific Alliance has recently been working on a Lagerfeld collection at a time when U.S. retailers are keen to use proprietary brands to draw consumers into their stores.

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Based in Milan and Bergamo and controlled by Switzerland’s Arner Private Equity Fund, Vaprio Stile has 80 employees and annual revenues of about 24 million euros. It’s affiliate company, Faenza Stile, specializes in jersey and collaborates with a range of design houses, including Versace, Jil Sander and Dsquared.

New York fashion week got off to a soaring start, with editors coping with the unfashionably humid weather and rigorous catwalk schedule. Thankfully, the hot temperatures didn’t take the focus off the Spring Summer shows, most notably that a shift in fashion was apparent across the major designer collections. Gone are the baby doll dress and girly shapes from last season. Fashion’s obsessions with the forties has a more playful feel, with graphic design and pattern and structured dresses being a common theme on the runway.

Evidence of the new trends was visible at 3.1 Phillip Lim, who moved away from his white silhouette of last season, and showed his eye for unexpected pairings, fresh hues and juxtaposing fabrics and colours, such as teaming a feminine silk blouse with a mod lycra mini. Oscar de la Renta received rave reviews from the American press, and had Victoria Beckham cooing on his front row. A strapless dress with an exquisite animated print was stunning evidence of his strength as one America’s most luxurious fashion houses.

Narciso Rodriquez, where Brit actress Rachel Weisz held court on his front row, showed floatier silhouette this season, including tie-dye dresses, metallics and embroidered pieces with optical spray paint in places. Tuleh also opted for prints, where zebra, abstract patters and florals were the focus amongst quirkier pieces such as a coral mermaid dress. Marc Jacobs, who’s show was a surrealist presentation of models in various states of undress, showed delectable dresses in violet prints, trouser suits with thigh-high slits and cashmere sweaters with sheer in his most conceptual collection to date.

Amy Smilovic at Tibi focused on glamorous safari-inspired pieces, mixing seventies-style prints on dresses and cardigans with linen jumpsuits, pretty gingham dresses and grecian evening wear in bold colours. A new shoe collection featured sumptuous warrior sandals and sexy heels.

This Fall, Pucci and 7 For All Mankind will unveil an exclusive capsule jean collection. The collaboration resulted in the creation of a limited edition jean designed by Pucci’s Creative Director, Matthew Williamson and brought to life by 7 For All Mankind. The partnership was based upon the principal that both Emilio Pucci and 7 For All Mankind not only have cult followings within their respective niches, but also have a passion for the craft of designing innovative products.

The special edition Emilio Pucci Carol jeans features the 7 For All Mankind’s iconic straight leg fit which slims the body, remaining perfectly parallel from the knee down to the slim leg opening. The jean is finished off with Pucci embroidered logo initials on the back pockets. In addition to the tonal back pocket stitching, each jean is fit with Pucci-designed copper hardware as well as exclusive Pucci-printed waistband and pocket labels.

These fits complements the rich color palette and Pucci’s eye-catching designs. 7 For All Mankind’s inky blue stretch denim, Manchester has been over-dyed to create a complex and saturated wash. Adding a burst of color is the lightweight stretch Colored Denim in warm, rich hues such as Rust, Moss, Burgundy and Purple.

The limited edition jeans are exclusively available at Pucci boutiques.

High street retailer Next said sales for the fourteen week period to 1 November 2008, down 4.4% were in line with guidance given at the time of its interim results in September. The combined total sales for Next Retail and Next Directory for the period were up 0.9%. Next Retail sales were up 0.3% on last year. Like for like sales in the 334 stores that were unaffected by new openings were down 4.4%. Tighter control of Spring Summer stock resulted in fewer markdown sales in August, so full price sales performance was marginally better than total sales.

In its interim trading statement Next said there is no change to its September guidance on full year gross margins, costs or operating margins for Retail and Directory. Cash flow remains as expected and, subject to the important run up to Christmas, year end net debt will be in the region of £670m. This includes the £17m cost of acquiring the Lipsy clothing business at the end of September as previously announced. The company is still budgeting for Autumn Winter 2008 Retail like for like sales to be in the range -4% to -7% and Directory sales to be in the range 0% to +2%

The outlook for consumer demand in 2009 is mixed. On the up-side, lower interest rates and falling fuel and food bills are likely to increase the amount available for discretionary spending at some point during the year. On the down-side, rising unemployment will reduce earnings and falling house prices may encourage people to save more. On balance the company expects negative like for likes to continue throughout next year, though not necessarily at any worse rate than the current year.

Next is due to issue a sales update for the period to 24 December 2008 on Tuesday 6 January 2009.

Image: Next campaign

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Esprit on Thursday announced final results for the year ended June 30th, recording 25.6% turnover growth while operating margins remained stable. “The global economy is undoubtedly facing a tough macro environment. It is during this time, however, that a strong company like Esprit demonstrates how such a storm can be weathered,” commented Mr. Heinz Krogner, Chairman and Group CEO. “Turnover growth was fueled by our strategic expansion plan. This year, we invested over HK$1.3 billion in capital expenditure and drove the Group’s total selling space to over 1,000,000m2, comprised of directly managed retail and controlled wholesale selling space. In addition, we have entered retail markets in Spain, Norway and Finland and have launched the new concept, de. corp,” said Mr. Thomas Grote, President of Esprit brand. “In the coming year, we will continue to seek growth opportunities and target to invest over HK$1 billion to further strengthen our global presence,” continued Mr. Grote. With robust net cash position of over HK$6.5 billion and to celebrate Esprit’s 40th anniversary, the Group proposed to share its success with shareholders through increasing dividend payout ratio to 80% of EPS, representing a 32.1% increase in total dividend for the year to HK$4.2 per share.

“As we embrace the coming year, which will be full of challenges and opportunities, we target to maintain our status among the industry’s leading global players and at the same time, maximize shareholders’ value,” concluded Mr. Krogner.

Image: Esprit AW08

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After selling Duchamp two years ago, Mitchell Jacobs, founder and former owner of the brand is to launch Penrose London. The new menswear label will be all about shirts, ties and accessories, but more grown up and sophisticated. Penrose London wants to move away from old formulas, market place fabrics and too much patterning. All designs will be exclusive to Penrose London and will be targeted at the higher end of the market.

Mitchell Jacobs will focus solely on the product as the Creative Director, and Michael Whitby-Grubb, formerly at Aquascutum, will be heading the Marketing Department. A Manager Director hasn’t been named as yet.

On the launch of Penrose London Whitby-Gubb commented: “With our combined backgrounds, contacts, reputations and experience we are a formidable force. We expect to hit the ground running.”

January 2009 will see the launch of Penrose London both in London and Florence.

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The cultural context on fashion has never been as prevalent as it is today. The impact of a global recession on not only the industry but also on consumers in general means fashion will have to adapt when the economy recovers. Anti-capitalist fashion may be a contraction in terms with the frivolity associated with an industry that has long promoted disposable fashion and thriving on ostentation. Both of which, put simply, are no longer cool.

David Wolfe, creative director for trend consultancy The Doneger Group, predicts bling has lost its appeal and consumers are looking at a cost-per-wear value. Clothing doesn’t have to be discounted to offer value, however high priced items as such a one-season it-bag no longer feels modern. A growing social awareness means consumers care where there product comes from, the quality of fabrics it consists of and most importantly how it is made.

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The overall mood in womenswear for next season is much more classic. Whilst there will always be an appreciation for dressing sexy, a new silhouette which moves the emphasis away from the body and obsession with youth will become more prevalent. All in all, consumers will want things to last longer and fashion movements to run deeper.

After being bought only a few weeks ago by former Proctor & Gamble executive Lea Ward and co-founder of investment firm H2Equity Age Hollander, childrenswear company Oilily is declared bankrupt by the Amsterdam Court. Ward bought a controlling stake from ABN AMRO Capital and H2Equity, which owned the company since 2003. The acquisition was realised with support of a different bank and without Hollander’s investments concern.

After closing down its headquarters and shops unexpectedly, the Dutch label opened its doors again last week. Especially after the new acquisition by Ward and Hollander, the closure came out of the blue. Ward and Hollander requested surseance and commented they want to look for a long-term solution to safe the brand’s future. Interesting to note, initially the couple said Oilily isn’t a company for institutionalised investors, and is in need of a more personal approach.

Several investors have shown interest in the 80-store counting company. In both fiscal years 2006 and 2007, Oilily made a loss of 2,3 million Euro. The company has 625 employees of which 175 are based in the Netherlands. According to Dutch national newspaper ‘De Telegraaf’, employees haven’t received a salary since February 2009.

Curator of Oilily, Marc Molhuysen is looking to sell the company by 30th April 2009, which is a national holiday in Holland in honour of Queen’s birthday.

Image: Oilily

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Shoe designer Tracey Neuls is currently exhibiting her work with a Shop and Show gallery in South Kensington, coinciding with London Fashion Week and ending March 1st. The Canadian-born designer over the last decade has established herself as a vital force in contemporary design and built a loyal customer base who keep coming back to her innovative yet idiosyncratic styles. Easily London’s best-kept secret, her boutique is situated in a little Marylebone off-shoot side street, where Neuls indulges us seasons after season with her hand-made, mould-breaking collections.

With a following including Kiera Knightley and Comme des Garcons’s Rei Kawakubo, the craftsmanship and attention to detail in each of her designs speaks for itself. The traditional working method Neuls employs are executed by Italian and Portuguese artisans who ensure comfort, ergonomics and durability. Neuls describes each shoe, each season as having its own flavour and story: “My shoes are whole objects, not half stories and that’s how they should be experienced.”

Displayed together for the first time, the entire spectrum of Neuls shoes – past, present and future – are shown not in sequence but in constellation. Displayed in salvaged library drawers, along with lost and found paraphernalia that Tracey collections and draws upon, this is a keyhole view of her creative processes. You can unpick themes, repetitions and variations in the collection of shes, yet each succeeds independently – proof of the timelessness of her work.

The Tracey Neuls exhibition runs until March 1st at 1-5 Exhibition Road, South Kensington.

Image: Tracey Neuls pop up shop

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