Hats on

Always wanted own a designer hat? Now you can get your hand on a design original. For this year’s Supergran charity campaign, Innocent has persuaded top designers and amateur knitters to create bobble hats for its smoothies.

For the normal bottle price, you could pick up a chic little number by Orla Keily, Pringle or Paul Smith, and get the drink thrown in for free. Meanwhile, Age Concern and the older people’s charity ExtraCare get 50p for every hat-wearing bottle sold.

From £1.75 from Eat cafes and Waitrose for a limited period only

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John Lewis outperforms market

The John Lewis Partnership announced that full-year profits had risen 10 percent to £252 million due to the continued strength of like-for-like sales. The company has surpassed many top high street retailers who have suffered a difficult year. It also said that trading in the first five weeks of this year had been strong. Furthermore, the group announced the acquisition of five stores, two of which are in Edinburgh. Group sales rose 8 percent to £5.8 billion, thanks mainly to a 13 percent rise in sales at Waitrose. Turnover at John Lewis department stores rose a mere 2 percent.

Meanwhile John Lewis profits dropped 6 percent to $192 million, partly as a result of one-off costs. Waitrose profits rose 19 percent to £231 million. In a company statement, group chairman Stuart Hampson said that 2006 would be a difficult year despite a good start to the year. “Looking ahead, there is every indication that this year will continue to be a tough one and that retailing in 2006 will not be for the faint-hearted,” he said. The members of the John Lewis Partnership, which include most John Lewis non-food and Waitrose chain employees, will share in the £120 million bonus.

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Nike sues Adidas-Salomon

The world’s largest sporting goods company Nike has sued the world’s number two Adidas-Salomon for allegedly infringing upon its patented Shox cushioning technology. Nike had filed a legal complaint against Adidas-Salomon in a Texan court stating that the infringing products include shoes using Adidas’ a3 cushioning system, including the new Kevin Garnett signature shoe and Adidas_1 footwear.

“Nike is widely recognized for its product innovation in footwear and athletic products and they invest heavily to provide performance products to their consumers,” said Eric Sprunk, vice president, Global Footwear Nike, Inc. “It is deeply frustrating and inappropriate when companies borrow or refashion such technologies as their own without making similar investments.” The Shox cushioning technology debuted in 2000 and is protected by 19 separate patents. According to Nike it took 16 years to develop. “Nike often reinvests its revenues into research and development of such new products. Understandably, Nike and its shareholders cannot allow infringement to occur unchallenged.

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Giles Deacon rumoured to head to Daks

London Fashion Week favourite Giles Deacon, who’s label Giles is still one of the most direction brands to show in London, is rumoured to be a contender for a design post at Daks. The British luxury brand, designed by Tiziano Mazzilli and Louise Michielsens, was launch three season’s ago. The spring -7 collection that was shown in a presentation in Milan this week will be the last by the two designers, whose three-season contract has not been renewed. It is believed that Deacon’s appointment will be announced in Paris next week.

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News of the role has surprised the fashion industry. Many expected Deacon to hold out for a role of a more high profile fashion house. Womenswear design director Anthony Cuthbertson left the company this week and is understood to be launching his own label. Bruce Montgomery, Daks menswear design director, is also chairman of the British Menswear Guild. For this financial year, Daks’ pre-tax losses doubled to £3.2 million for the year to eh end of January, from £1.6m the previous year, although sales grew 3.8 per cent to £21.2m.

UK sales made up 27% of turnover, while those from Asia and Australia made up 56% and the rest of Europe comprised 16%. Deacon’s label Giles is one of the first two designer labels to be supported by the new British Fashion Council Fashion Forward scheme, sponsored by property developer Westfield. The scheme aims to help designers make the transition from young talent to successful designer business by providing funding for catwalk shows and business development.

Doo.Ri – hot young designer

Doo.Ri is a name that looks primed to become a whole lot more familiar to British fashion fans, as designer Doo.Ri Chung brings her much talked about womenswear line across the pond to Harvey Nichols. Back in New York, she’s quite the golden girl with the papers and glossies that count championing her design talents.

As with so many of America’s favourite designers, her skills were honed at the legendary fashion hothouse, Parson’s School of Design. After that she sharpened them further at Geoffrey Beene, another American fashion legend if ever there was one. The collection you’ll find at the London store is a beautifully subtle and sensual meld of masculine and feminine shapes, and fluid and harder fabrics. The palette of fleshy neutrals was inspired by the moody and often hazy images of fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville, now regarded as iconic. The individual pieces are feminine (there are loose jersey tops, elegantly draping dresses and ruffle-front coats) but there’s a structured, more masculine undertone running throughout the collection. Fitted but wide-in-the-leg pants exemplify this. This is not trumpet-blowing fashion, but something more ethereal for women who like to keep their statements subtle. It’s a sentiment that will no doubt prove as popular on this side of the Atlantic as it has on the other.

Gerry Weber H1 profits rise

German fashion company Gerry Weber saw net profits for the first half of 2006 rise 22 percent to €10.3 million. Earnings before tax and interest rose 12.7 percent to €17.8 million, while sales gained 12.1 percent to €128 million. Pre-order figures were strong for the Gerry Weber key brand and its sub-labels, which rose 24.4 percent. Pre-orders for the Taifun collection surged 83 percent, while the Samoon brand witnessed a rise of 42.9 percent. Retail activities remain the company’s core business. Sales at the Houses of Gerry Weber rose 31.8 percent. The number of these stores rose from 102 to 120 in the first half of the year, with 44 directly owned and 76 run by franchisees. The company opened its London flagship on Regent Street during the second quarter and another one in Nuremberg, Germany. Furthermore, it will be opening outlets at highly frequented locations like airports and major railway stations. The first such franchise store will be located Lehrter Bahnhof in Berlin. The company is targeting the €50 million mark before the end of the year. Furthermore, it expects sales for this fiscal year to rise to €440 million, and to €500 million in 2006/7. It also aims to increase gross margin by a full percentage point to `0.5 percent.

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Edit magazine launch

There’s a new fashion magazine on the racks called Edit. Published by none other than the fashionable Harvey Nichols group, the bi-annual publication will mimic a buyer’s notebook in style and feature key catwalk looks from the current season. The magazine will be available at all Harvey Nichols stores in the UK and Ireland – six in total – as well as to its estimated 40,000 customers. You can preview some of the pages on the store’s website,

www.harveynichols.com

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Asprey appoints new creative director

British jewellery house Asprey has appointed Hakan Rosenius to be its new creative director. Rosenius will join the firm and the fill the newly created position from Paul Smith, where he spent the past 23 years and is currently creative director.

At Asprey, the creative roles had originally been divided among a design team that included Hussein Chalayan for ready-to-wear, Alessandra Gradi for jewellery and Thierry de Baschmakoff for home accessories. As creative director, Rosenius will be put in charge of design, marketing, advertising, promotion and visual merchandising. He will report to Asprey chief executive Gianluca Brozzetti.

“We are all very excited by the arrival of Hakan Rosenius as creative director,” said Brozzetti in a statement. “His creative experience, style and passion for Britishness and luxury will make a great contribution to the development of Asprey worldwide.”

At Paul Smith, Rosenius worked alongside Sir Paul on store interiors, merchandising, packaging, look books and advertising for licensed products. Prior to this he worked as a buyer and merchandiser for London boutiques Browns and Joseph.

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Fashion publishers under scrutiny

Fashion edia giant Emap is facing a shareholder backlash after it announced last week that its revenues will slide this year. Shares in the company, which owns ‘lads’ mag’ FHM and the weekly publication Grazia, fell by nearly 15 per cent last Thursday following the news.One of Emap’s largest shareholders hinted that it would support a takeover bid for the group. ‘It is not a huge surprise they have underperformed. There is a lot of venture capital money around in the media sector. They wouldn’t have much of a defence if someone came along with a bid,’ the stakeholder said.

Last September, Emap warned that advertising revenue in some of its public-sector trade titles was falling rapidly and overall growth was slowing. Before that, Moloney had announced that the group’s French arm was performing badly, and the business was subsequently sold.Emap said last week that revenues from its men’s lifestyle and automotive titles, which analysts estimate generate around 40 per cent of profits at its magazine arm, had slowed significantly. Magazines including FHM – one of the publishing success stories of the Nineties – music title Q and car publication Max Power are not performing as well as they were. Arena and Motor Cycle News are also believed to be suffering.

The company has launched successful weekly titles like Zoo and Closer, which are growing, but investors are worried that the latest comments from the company indicate the slowdown in the magazine market may be permanent rather than cyclical. One analyst said: ‘The market is catching up with them.’A company spokesman said: ‘Emap continues to outperform markets which are clearly under pressure’, and emphasised that it had raised the dividend and returned money from the sale of the French business to shareholders. He added that Sir Robin Miller, a former chief executive and chairman of Emap, described the company’s current management as ‘outstanding’ last week.

Ebay sets up business site

Retailers are able to set up their own transactional website when eBay launches a its new business site called www.ebayexpress.co.uk , in the UK this autumn. The site will enable business to sell new product at a fixed price, as opposed to individuals selling items at a fixed price or by auction on eBay’s main site. Retailers can list as many items as they like, paying a fee for listing and a final value fee for each item sold. Ebay UK has more than 15 million users and 68,000 use it as their main or secondary source of income. The site is due to be operational from October.