Hansjörg Auer e il nodo alla fine della corda

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Hansjörg Auer ricorda a tutti l’importanza di fare un nodo alla fine della corda, anche sui monotiri in falesia.

Ieri in redazione è arrivata una email di Hansjörg Auer, il giovane austriaco che è salito alla ribalta internazionale con la sua straordinaria free solo del Pesce in Marmolada. Questa volta però Hansjörg ci voleva raccontare non della sua ultima avventura, ma della sua ultima disavventura in falesia che avrebbe potuto avere conseguenze ben peggiori.

Ecco il suo racconto: “Dopo essermi fatto male a giugno mi ero ripreso abbastanza, non al 100% ma in falesia arrampicavo già abbastanza bene. Ero anche tornato in montagna, ho rivisitato la Marmolada, ma poi a casa è successo di nuovo: arrampicando in falesia non avevo messo un nodo alla fine della corda (questo semplicemente non dovrebbe mai succedere), il mio amico mi ha calato da una via di 35m e nel momento in cui mi ha dato la mano, la corda è partita dal freno e io sono caduto per 25m, rotolando giù per la ripida roccia fino alla base della parete… La cosa che ha dell’incredibile è che mi sono procurato solo dei forti ematomi: la testa, i piedi, tutto bene – niente di rotto! Dopo una notte in ospedale ero di nuovo a casa . Non so bene perchè ho così tanta fortuna, ne sono davvero grato. Avrebbe potuto andare molto peggio.”

L’avvertimento è chiaro, la procedura semplicissima. Per evitare quello che si sta verificando sempre di più in falesia, dove i tiri stanno diventando sempre più lunghi: prima di partire su una via, assicuratevi di aver messo un nodo alla fine della corda. Ma soprattuto ricordatevi sempre che l’arrampicata è fatta di due elementi che hanno pari importanza e responsabilità: il primo di cordata e il secondo. Buone, e sicure, scalate a tutti!

Video intervista Hansjörg Auer al Trento Film Festival 2008

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Officials probe cracks found under Osaka trains that could have led to ‘serious incident’

OSAKA – Transportation authorities found a 10-centimeter crack on the undercarriage of a train car belonging to Osaka-based Nankai Electric Railway Co. on Tuesday, following the discovery of a similar 14-cm crack on the undercarriage of a train of the same model on Saturday.

The authorities also launched a probe into how the airport express trains went into service despite the cracks, deeming it a “serious incident” that could have led to an accident.

The 14-cm crack was discovered under a limited express “rapi:t” service train. Two investigators from the Japan Transport Safety Board held hearings at Nankai Electric Railway’s office on Tuesday.

The railway operator found a similar-sized crack on a third train car of the same type in April.

It said it would continue operating the remaining four trains of the type for the rest of the day.

A conductor was the first to notice a problem on one of the trains, detecting an abnormal sound coming from the coupling between the second and third carriages of the six-car passenger train while it was traveling from Namba Station to Kansai International Airport on Friday afternoon.

An attendant checked the train at the time, but it completed its service for the day before further inspections were conducted at a depot in Osaka, where the crack was then discovered near the motor on the undercarriage of the second car.

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The train in question was built in 1994, according to the operator.

Tokyo Gov. Yuriko Koike and Beijing officials confirm Olympic cooperation for 2020 and 2022

BEIJING – Tokyo Gov. Yuriko Koike and top officials in Beijing confirmed Monday that they will cooperate over the upcoming Summer and Winter Olympic Games.

Tokyo will host next year’s Summer Games, while the 2022 Winter Games are scheduled to take place in Beijing.

Koike’s visit to the Chinese capital came as Tokyo and Beijing mark the 40th anniversary this year of the establishment of friendly city relations.

In his meeting with Koike, Cai Qi, secretary of the Chinese Communist Party’s Beijing Municipal Committee, called for cooperation from Tokyo in city development. Tokyo is the best model for Beijing in establishing an international metropolis, Cai said.

Speaking to reporters after the meeting, Koike said interactions between the two cities are highly meaningful and that it is desirable that such interactions become more rooted after 40 years of friendship.

At a separate meeting, Koike and Beijing Mayor Chen Jining concluded an agreement to promote mutual visits by officials and cooperation between the two cities in fields such as science and technology, education, sports and the environment.

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Taro Kono says he hopes to reduce Middle East tension in meeting with Iran counterpart

YOKOHAMA – Foreign Minister Taro Kono hopes to make diplomatic efforts to reduce tension in the Middle East, he said on Tuesday, as he began a meeting with Iranian counterpart Mohammad Javad Zarif.

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“We are worried about tension in the Middle East and we hope to make some diplomatic effort to ease the tension,” Kono told reporters. “So we wanted to have a direct and frank conversation.”

The two men smiled and shook hands before sitting down for the talks as the media were ushered out.

Tension between Tehran and Washington has risen since U.S. President Donald Trump’s administration last year quit an international deal to curb Iran’s nuclear ambitions and began to ratchet up sanctions.

Iranian officials have denounced the new penalties as “economic warfare.”

Gerrard’s cousin to stay at Liverpool despite interest from Fiorentina

Liverpool will not allow youth team striker Bobby Duncan to leave the club this season.

The 18-year-old cousin of former Reds captain Steven Gerrard has been subject to interest from Danish side FC Nordsjaelland and, most recently, Serie A club Fiorentina.

Neither offers were suitable or credible and the Italian’s bid – believed to be about £1.6million for a permanent deal should any initial loan be successful – was considered “derisory and unrealistic”.

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Academy director Alex Inglethorpe rejected both approaches immediately and, contrary to some reports, is not in talks with Fiorentina over any kind of deal.

Duncan, an FA Youth Cup winner with the under-18s in April, has graduated to the under-23s this season but his absence from Monday’s 4-2 victory over Southampton has led to more speculation about his future.

Liverpool, it is understood, have no concerns about Duncan’s attitude and have kept the player and his representatives fully informed of their plans for the striker, who does not turn 19 until next June.

Duncan, who moved to Liverpool last year for a compensation fee of £200,000 having been with Manchester City since the age of 11, is expected to spend a full season with Neil Critchley’s under-23s side this season having already made three appearances in Premier League 2 and the Checkatrade Trophy this month.

 

Bolton future ‘is still in doubt’ ahead of EFL deadline

Bolton administrator Paul Appleton says the future of the club “is still in doubt” but hopes there will be a “positive outcome” before today’s 5pm deadline set by the English Football League.

Wanderers are on the brink of liquidation, with their 145-year history hanging in the balance while quibbles continue over legal paperwork.

A deal to sell the Trotters to preferred bidders Football Ventures collapsed on Saturday morning – despite being virtually agreed hours earlier – and Appleton had warned on Monday that he would start closing the club down on Wednesday.

The EFL has given the club until 5pm today to prove a deal is done or provide reasons why they require an extension, otherwise a notice for their formal withdrawal from the league will be issued.

“Following my statement of yesterday morning, I am glad to report there is continuing dialogue between the parties whose positions will ultimately decide the fate of the club,” said Appleton’s statement on Bolton’s website.

“Myself and my team will continue to do everything possible to facilitate a deal and we will work tirelessly to get this finalised for the club, fans, staff and wider community.

“The future of Bolton Wanderers is still in doubt but I have to believe there can be a positive outcome before today’s 5pm deadline set by the EFL.”

Bolton, founder members of the Football League, will still have 14 days to provide proof of funds in order to stave off expulsion if they fail to meet the deadline, but assets will start to be sold off on Wednesday, with the likelihood 150-plus jobs will be lost.

Neighbours Bury also face a 5pm deadline for their owner Steve Dale to complete a sale to data analytics company C&N Sporting Risk or face a similar withdrawal notice.

They, however, have been offered a lifeline by the EFL in terms of an extension should they be able to prove a deal is all but done.

Bolton’s situation appears more precarious, with Appleton saying on Monday: “The club is currently not in a position to carry on trading and, as such, the process of closing down the company will commence on Wednesday.

“Unless there is a change of position from any of the parties involved, the process of closing down the club and ultimately placing Bolton Wanderers into liquidation will begin this week.”

Bolton owner Ken Anderson, however, has rejected suggestions he is to blame.

“I have had no contact with any of the consortium, the Eddie Davies Trust (set up by the former owner) or Keir Gordon (lawyer for the Trust) since the appointment of the administrators and was not involved in any of the discussions or delays over the last few months,” he told Sky Sports News.

“The lengthy delays are entirely due to the discussions and negotiations between the consortium, Trust, Michael James, Administrators and Keir Gordon.

“As l understand it, Keir Gordon and the Eddie Davies Trust and my lawyers were unable to reach an agreement on Saturday.

“Obviously, l have to be guided by my lawyers and QC advice and it now rests with Keir Gordon and the Trust to respond to my lawyers.”

 

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Frank Lampard confirms injury to Chelsea winger

Frank Lampard has confirmed that Pedro picked up a hamstring injury which kept him from starting the 3-2 victory over Norwich on Saturday.

Pedro remains a doubt for the Sheffield Utd game this weekend, but he is hopeful the Spaniard will return to the matchday squad soon.

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Pedro is set for a two week break from competitive action as he will not be involved in the European Championship qualifiers for Spain.

‘Pedro picked up a hamstring injury and we will assess the severity of it over the next couple of days, but I think it will be tough for him to be back for next week at first glance,’ Lampard told the official club website.

‘We obviously then have the international break, so that might help, but we will be trying to get him back as quickly as possible because he’s an important player.

The Chelsea boss also hinted that they wouldn’t be rushing star midfielder N’Golo Kante back from injury.

‘It’s a difficult one with N’Golo because he’s had four years of constant playing.

‘We knew he had that injury from the Europa League final last season, which affected his pre-season, and then he picked up an ankle injury last week. He’s trying and we are trying to get him through it, but the game yesterday just came too quickly and he was in too much pain.

‘But again he is one to assess and we want him back in the team because he’s an important player. I think the international break will be great for him, to try and recover him.’

 

Man Utd legend to receive UEFA President’s Award

Former Manchester United star Eric Cantona has been chosen as recipient of the 2019 UEFA President’s Award.

Cantona scored 64 Premier League goals and five Champions League goals for United after moving from Leeds in 1993.

Cantona will join an illustrious list of previous winners which includes Sir Bobby Charlton, David Beckham, Alfredo Di Stefano and Eusebio.

UEFA said the award “recognises outstanding achievements, professional excellence and exemplary personal qualities.”

And UEFA president Aleksander Ceferin, who selected Cantona for the award, paid a glowing tribute to the 53-year-old.

“This award not only recognises his career as a player of the highest calibre, but also honours him for the person he is – a man who refuses compromise, who stands up for his values, who speaks his mind and in particular puts his heart and his soul into supporting the causes he believes in,” Ceferin said.

Cantona will receive the award in Monaco on Thursday, where the Champions League group stage draw is due to take place.

 

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Pundit: Solskjaer won’t take Man Utd back to the top

Ole Gunnar Solskjaer won’t take Manchester United back to the summit of English football, according to former Crystal Palace chairman Simon Jordan.

The Red Devils have had a mixed start to the new Premier League season, hammering Chelsea 4-0 in their opening match before grabbing a respectable draw on the road at Wolves last Monday.

On Saturday, United suffered their first defeat of the season in a 2-1 loss against Crystal Palace and Jordan thinks Old Trafford has now lost its “fear factor”.

“Because it’s Manchester United, we’ve watched all of their games because there is more focus on Manchester United,” Jordan told talkSPORT.

“On one hand you could say, two penalties put Manchester United five points better off so we would have a different look at Man United because they would be second.

“But if you look at the manner in which Man United are playing, I’m sorry because I know Man United fans will start yelling and screaming, but up to 60 minutes against Chelsea they were getting bossed.

“Chelsea were the better side in that game by a long way and nobody could see anybody other than Chelsea scoring goals. Now conventional wisdom was defied, Sam Allardyce got made to look a fool on the touchline as we did sitting here and Chelsea capitulated.

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“But anyone else other than Chelsea on that day, of that sort of perceived stature, wouldn’t have capitulated and I don’t think Man United would have won that game.

“With respect, Palace got very, very lucky yesterday and Roy [Hodgson] talked about ‘riding their luck’ and ultimately pulling a result out of nowhere.

“But looking at that performance; there is no fear factor, nobody cares about Old Trafford in way they once did because that image is gone.

“And I don’t think it is going to come back under the stewardship of Ole Gunnar Solskjaer because part of that image, as we know, was best players winning games.

“But also, there was this figure at the very head of Manchester United as a football operation, which was [Sir Alex] Ferguson.

“Are you seriously saying to me that the serious times of Man United, with Liverpool and Man City disappearing into the horizon, that Ole Gunnar Solskjaer is going to operate at the level that is required? I don’t think so!”

 

The football revolution will not be televised. It’ll be podcasted…

Have you noticed there’s a football broadcasting revolution going on?

It’s Monday, and that means for me and for hundreds of thousands of football fans, it is a big podcast day. The day when we download pods to listen to their various interpretations and observations on the weekend’s action. They have become an indispensable warp and weft upon which we weave our football life.

For me this means at the absolute bare minimum I‘ll be listening to the Guardian’s Football Weekly, the Totally Football Show and 5live’s Football Daily. However, if I’ve got the time – and I often do because I don’t have a proper job – I will catch up with many, many others too, rarely missing, at some point in the week, Set Piece Menu, The Game, The Offside Rule, Football Ramble, Off The Ball and That Peter Crouch Podcast (when there’s a new episode). Added to that I’ll Listen Again if I missed them live to various talkSPORT and 5live shows. I’ll hoover up Danny Kelly and Simon Jordan’s Boot Room To Boardroom and Football’s Deadly Sins pods, also talkSPORT’s Press Box, Final Word, Trans Euro-Express and On The Sporting Couch, plus any amount of BBC Sounds programmes too including World Football and 606 with ABB and Chris Sutton if I’ve missed it live. Some of these are three hours long, so they fill up a lot of my time every week.

If you look at any podcast aggregator, there are now hundreds of football ‘shows’. It is nothing short of incredible. It would be genuinely possible to fill every 16 waking hours of every day listening to football podcasts and still not listen to them all. And here’s the amazing thing, a hell of a lot of them are really good, made by entertaining people who have insight. Indeed, the lack of expensive technology needed means you can do one from your back room, or from professional studios and it pretty much sounds the same.

Because of all the different platforms and ways to access podcasts, numbers of listeners to any specific one are to say the very least opaque. Even within the BBC, they’re not sure. You can apparently be #1 on iTunes due to some twists and turns of their algorithm being based at least in part on the number of subscribers and the number of reviews any podcast has, even whilst not having the most listeners. It also allegedly favours new podcasts over ones which have been running for a long while.

It’s clear the BBC, with their Sounds app, are investing heavily in this new medium with a plethora of pods about every issue under the sun as well as re-edits of live shows that can be downloaded.

So what’s going on here? Why an aural revolution and why now? Podcasts have been around for at least a decade. We used to do one ourselves called PodBall back in 2008 but in the last year or two, the amount of them as gone off the scale. Has the demand for all this football broadcasting grown exponentially in recent years or was it always there?

Well, for a start, the cultural trend to want to personally curate our media in order to get it to fit into our lives and ensure we only expose ourselves to the stuff we enjoy, is now a normal part of life, the way it never used to be, as technology has made it easy and seamless to do so. The idea that we have to fit our lives around broadcast media rather than the other way around, now seems very outdated. So that this should extend to the aural media is wholly in keeping with the zeitgeist.

Podcasts play to my and many others roots because my primary source of football media has always been aural via radio, going back to the Medium Wave nights of my childhood endlessly turning a small plastic radio around to catch a better signal through the swell and fade of such a big world on so dark a night, dreaming of the distant places football was being played and of the grown-up world I knew nothing about.

Podcasts are also popular, I believe, because the modern world demands that many of us live through long periods of being alone. Whether it is a commute to and from work, or because more of us are single for longer than was once the case, it is very easy to get isolated. As well as being alone, there is a problem with loneliness. A study by The Co-op and the British Red Cross revealed over nine million people in the UK across all adult ages are either always or often lonely. Television doesn’t stop you feeling lonely or alone but I believe the more intimate aural medium of radio and podcasts can. A podcast made by people whose voice and point of view you like helps assuage such feelings. You feel you are with friends and psychologically you are inhabiting the same space as these often smart, well-informed, familiar and friendly voices.

Given it is an economic model which has been pursued for the last 40 years that has led to isolation and deprivation on a deep, nationwide scale, with communities shattered and many of us shut off from each other in our individual financial and cultural enclaves, it is no surprise that we’re a lonely nation in need of human warmth, nor that we might turn en masse to a medium which can deliver that.

But it is more than that, I think. Podcasts improve us. Selecting broadcasts by educated, informed people are the antidote to the crushing political and cultural idiocracy that we live under. I’m a big fan of the Totally Football suite of pods which cover Premier League, EFL, Scottish and European football, simply because everyone involved knows their stuff. It’s no more complex than that and I’m sure it’s the same for all fans of any pod. Add in the fact that listening to a pod fits well in our lifestyle and it isn’t hard to see why this big growth is happening.

Superb podcasts such as Set Piece Menu which frequently discusses deeper issues to do with the game, the people who watch it, the society it is played in and the media it is broadcast on, are the aural equivalent of in-depth think pieces. There is probably no better example than Set Piece Menu of how podcasts can provide a kind of football step-family. Familiar, reliable and welcoming, entertaining and intellectual but with a lightness of touch that makes it very accessible. In truth, all the best football podcasts do this.

Great pods are like your mates have come round for some tea or a glass of something cold. They have a natural ease to them. And I’m sure this is why they are compulsive and have become such a cornerstone of our football lives. They are also the opposite of the crud-o-crats in mainstream media who are filling up their sidebars of shame with dreck, who are busy twisting truth and fictionalising facts in order to garner clicks and readers in a pursuit of the dumbest dullards in the mistaken belief they are the masses, when this huge expansion of interest in podcasts proves rather the opposite. It proves our thirst for expertise, for wit, for wisdom and knowledge. In a visual age where ever more subscriptions can deliver ever more televisual excess, it is counterbalanced by a medium which lives in the landscape of the mind

They’re also free.

And this must also be a major reason for this huge expansion. It won’t have escaped your attention that almost all of us have anywhere between nothing and not very much in the way of money and assets, especially those under the age of 40. With 10 million falling into the new ‘precariat’ class, an average wage of around £27,000, with many living off far less, and students running up huge debts in return for an education that should be a right, not a privilege and paid out of the public purse, because educated people are an asset to the economy and society, the vast majority of us do not have spare money to spend on football media. Poverty, though widespread, has been made invisible to those who do not suffer from it and has been normalised to those who do.

This is why paywall football remains resolutely stuck down in the boondocks of popularity and viewing figures for 112 of Sky’s 128 Premier League matches attracted under 2 million viewers, many less than a million. It’s why BTSport’s highest number watching last season was just 1.7 million in a nation of 66 million citizens. Even those who do watch it tend to jump ship almost as soon as the game ends. Podcasts are evidence that there is a big audience and thirst for football thought and discussion, but TV usually finds it hard to retain even half of its audience as soon as the game is over.

But football is still massive. Millions love it. We know this because over 30 million people watched England v Croatia in the 2018 World Cup semi-final on ITV, the biggest audience any single channel broadcast has ever achieved in the history of UK broadcasting. The third largest audience ever after the 1966 World Cup Final and Princess Diana’s Funeral, both of which were simulcast on two channels.

However, our 27-year-long disenfranchisement from live top flight football on TV is now absolutely chronic, with supply far exceeding demand. The long established financial model is almost at breaking point under the weight of public indifference to paying for that which has cost so much to acquire. But the rainbow of podcasts and radio too have increasingly stepped up to the bar to slake our thirst for all things football and are helping to entertain the huge lost audience for live football. They are keeping a flame under our passion, replacing hours watching games on TV with hours spent listening. And at no cost, they are the best value product on the market.

A football broadcasting revolution is underway, old certainties are in flux and podcasts are one of the best and most important things to have emerged from the early battles in what will be a long war. They point to the viability of, and desire for, a brighter, cleverer, more informed, more inclusive, more entertaining, less lonely future, available to all and in the common embrace. Viva la podcast revolution!

John Nicholson

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