Trial run in Japan of anti-groping UV stamps sells out within an hour

Following a heated online debate on ways to combat groping and similar behaviors on trains, a name stamp-maker on Tuesday released a new product that can be applied to the offender’s hand — leaving the seal mark of an open palm to identify an assailant.

Developer Shachihata Inc., which makes easy-to-use pre-inked seals, hopes the product, priced at ¥2,500 before tax, will help deter the common problem on Japan’s crowded trains.

A limited trial run of 500 sets sold out in less than an hour after sales began at 1 p.m. Tuesday, company spokesman Hirofumi Mukai said.

The anti-groping stamp uses a special ink that only becomes visible under ultraviolet light, but not under sunlight or artificial light, according to the company. The black light that comes with the stamp can be used to illuminate the 9-millimeter stamped mark. The ink can be washed off.

Mukai said the product is designed primarily as a deterrent, to discourage anyone from groping. An accompanying strap can be attached to a bag to show those nearby that a person is carrying the stamp.

In May, a viral tweet about a school doctor who recommended pricking gropers using a safety pin generated mixed responses. Some said that would work as a deterrent, but others stated that the measure could be considered a crime. Shachihata then received a tweet suggesting the development of an anti-groping stamp. It was those discussions that propelled the company into action.

A tweet posted by the company on Tuesday said the launch of the product was “a small step” toward achieving a society where there are no sex crimes, including groping, and acts of violence.

“We will continue to consider ways for us to contribute to society,” the tweet said.

Yayoi Matsunaga, head of the Osaka-based organization Chikan Yokushi Katsudo Center (Groping Prevention Activities Center), said the same day that it was too early to judge whether or not the product can prevent groping but hailed Shachihata’s move as “very meaningful.”

The fact that a company released an anti-groping product “should have a big impact on society, which could lead to deterrence,” she added.

Following the trial sale, the company plans to revamp the product based on user feedback.

Trump’s de facto blessing of North Korea’s missile tests sends ominous message to Japan

U.S. President Donald Trump may not mind North Korea’s repeated tests of short-range missiles, including some believed capable of striking Japan, but his not-so-begrudging acceptance of the North’s actions is sending an unmistakable message to Washington’s Asian allies: America really does come first.

The latest volley of tests came Saturday, making for a total of at least 11 apparent ballistic missile launches overseen by North Korean leader Kim Jong Un this year and eight in the last five weeks. The pace comes close to matching the frantic speed of testing in 2017, when Trump and Kim traded insults and threats.

“I’m not happy about it, but then again he’s not in violation of an agreement,” Trump said Sunday, after the latest launches. He was apparently referring to a deal between the two leaders that ostensibly prohibits the firing of longer-range ballistic missiles.

Strikingly, the comment was made while sitting beside the leader of possibly the United States’ closest ally in Asia, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, during a bilateral meeting on the sidelines of the Group of Seven summit in France.

“I discussed long-range ballistic and that he cannot do and he hasn’t been doing it. … He has done short-range, much more standard missiles, a lot of people are testing those missiles, not just him,” the U.S. president said.

“We are in the world of missiles, folks, whether you like it or not,” he added.

But contrary to two years ago, when Trump threatened to rain “fire and fury” on the North over its nuclear and missile tests, observers say the U.S. president’s de facto blessing of this year’s short-range tests is in effect telling Japan as well as South Korea, another top Asian ally, that they are expendable.

It’s a message he’s sending to the tens of thousands of U.S. soldiers and expatriates there, too.

So far, Trump administration and defense officials have remained mum despite growing concerns over the president’s stance.

The Pentagon did not immediately respond to a request for comment on the issue and U.S. Forces Korea referred questions to the State Department.

Asked Tuesday when the president will say, “enough is enough,” and if he plans on “taking a stronger stance on North Korea,” U.S. Secretary of State Mike Pompeo had little to say beyond the White House’s standard line.

“The president’s taken the strongest stance in an awfully long time on North Korea,” Pompeo said in an interview. “We didn’t get to this situation in the 2½ years that President Trump’s been in office.”

The message has reinforced existing security concerns in South Korea and Japan that Washington may not come to their defense at critical moments, especially if U.S. territory becomes vulnerable to a North Korean nuclear attack.

Negotiations between Pyongyang and Washington for the North to relinquish its nukes have been stalled since late June, when Trump held an impromptu meeting with Kim at the Demilitarized Zone at the two Koreas’ border. That meeting ended with the two promising to return to the talks in the near future, but a restart has yet to happen.

Rather, Pyongyang has delivered repeated rebukes of Washington, Seoul and Tokyo, focusing especially on joint military exercises between the U.S. and South, and leaving the Trump team waiting for word of the talks’ resumption as increasingly sophisticated missiles continue to tumble into the Sea of Japan.

“The recent development in North Korean missile technology certainly puts Japanese policymakers on notice, and Trump seeming to brush off the concern in his attempt to prioritize the resumption of denuclearization [talks] aggravates Tokyo’s anxiety,” said Yuki Tatsumi, a senior fellow at the Stimson Center think tank who previously worked at the Japanese Embassy in Washington.

That anxiety was on full display when Abe expressed a view that deviated from Trump’s on Sunday, calling the latest test “extremely regrettable” and repeating Tokyo’s mantra that the launches are clear violations of U.N. rules.

Trump, looking to placate his golf buddy, shook off the remarks.

“I can understand how the prime minister of Japan feels. I mean, I can. It’s different. But, I mean, I can understand that fully,” he said.

Abe has long pushed Trump to include in the denuclearization negotiations the shorter-range weapons that put Japan in the North’s crosshairs, and Trump has obliged, at least for now.

But it remains uncertain if he will continue to do so as his focus shifts to what he considers the only real threat under America First: the intercontinental ballistic missiles (ICBMs) that can hit the United States.

“This was the worst-case scenario for Tokyo — Trump deals with North Korea, only focusing on its nuclear program and ICBMs, leaving Japan still exposed to North Korea’s short- and medium-range missiles,” said Tatsumi.

The North already has stockpiles of Rodong medium-range ballistic missiles, which have a range of 1,200 kilometer to 1,500 km, and Scud-ER (extended-range) weapons that can travel 800 km to 1,000 km. That puts large chunks of Japan in striking distance, a fact the regime has trumpeted and demonstrated on multiple occasions.

But when Pyongyang, after 16½ months of relative silence since its November 2017 ICBM test, restarted its latest rounds of weapons tests on April 17 — firing a “new-type tactical guided weapon” believed to be a rocket-launched projectile that flew so low South Korean and U.S. military radars didn’t detect it — it was clear that the North had a plan.

This continued, perhaps even more ominously, with the May 4 and 9 launches of short-range missiles, including one that resembled a nuclear-capable Russian Iskander missile.

The weapons tests abruptly ended in June as Trump held his meeting with Kim. But in the ensuing weeks, the North has demonstrated a spate of advanced new weaponry and missiles, with some traveling just far enough to hit virtually all of the South and potentially even parts of Japan.

While the distances paled in comparison with the North’s tests in 2017 — which included two intermediate-range ballistic missiles that overflew Japan and one ICBM that experts believe could hit all of the contiguous U.S. — Pyongyang has, in effect showcased ever-improving new capabilities for safeguarding its isolated regime.

Perhaps the most fearsome of these has been the presumed Islander clone, known as a KN-23, which one test in July showed was able to fly as far as 690 km (430 miles) — putting South Korea and areas of Japan at risk. The missile is designed to be mobile, which makes it easier to hide, and fly at a height and speed that makes it hard for U.S. interceptor systems to shoot down, weapons experts have said.

“In terms of the capabilities of this missile, it’s clearly got Iskander-like capability,” said Malcolm Davis, a senior defense analyst at the Australian Strategic Policy Institute think tank in Canberra. “The main advantage of this system is that it is designed to circumvent missile-defense systems such as Patriot and THAAD.”

A U.S. Terminal High Altitude Area Defense (THAAD) anti-ballistic missile system is currently deployed to South Korea.

By being able to travel around 700 km, “that would make U.S. bases in [the] ROK and southern Japan within range, and if U.S. and Japanese [ballistic missile defenses] can’t defeat it, that adds a new level of vulnerability … and a greater threat” from North Korea, Davis said, using the acronym for the South’s formal name, the Republic of Korea.

Indeed, Japanese Defense Minister Takeshi Iwaya confirmed this view on Tuesday, saying that Pyongyang appears to be developing warheads to penetrate the ballistic missile shield defending Japan — pointing in particular to the latest launches’ irregular trajectories.

Japan and the United States have Aegis destroyers deployed in the Sea of Japan, armed with SM-3 interceptor missiles designed to destroy warheads in space. Tokyo also plans to build two land-based Aegis batteries, called Aegis Ashore, to bolster its ballistic missile shield.

Those defense systems, however, are designed to counter projectiles on regular and therefore, predictable, trajectories, and any variation in flight path would make interception trickier.

Japan also employs the ground-based Patriot Advanced Capability-3 (PAC-3) missile interceptor, which is said to be capable of intercepting an enemy missile within a radius of less than 20 km and is designed to strike incoming missiles in the lower atmosphere.

Markus Schiller, a rocketry expert with the German company ST Analytics, said that while speed is “not that much of a problem” for the Patriot system, “if an intercept actually succeeds is another question.”

“You never have 100 percent hit-and-kill probability,” Schiller said.

“However, if you are crossing a site at an altitude of 25 km or above, this would be too high for the Patriot to reach the target. And it seems that SM-3 and THAAD would have a problem there, too, because that would be too low for both SM-3 and THAAD to kick in,” he said.

North Korea is believed to be testing these weapons before it resumes diplomatic talks with Washington, and may conduct further weapons tests this month, defense officials from the U.S. and its allies have said.

Masashi Murano, a Japan Chair Fellow at the Hudson Institute think tank, called the North’s “diversification of delivery systems” while denuclearization talks remain deadlocked “bad news” for Japan and its allies.

“In this regard, not only President Trump, but also Prime Minister Abe’s reaction is not appropriate,” he said. “Abe has repeatedly said, ‘It does not immediately affect the security of Japan.’ All of these missiles, even those with a short range that North Korea launches every day, are built into a layered escalation ladder and everything affects the deterrence strategy.”

Murano said that although Abe is attempting to “read the mood” of Trump “and not speak out against it,” that approach was “frustrating for Japan’s defense officials.”

“We need to conduct flexible deterrent options,” he said. “If North Korea’s tests are, as President Trump said, ‘short range are very standard’ then Japan, the United States and South Korea should test similar ground-based missiles,” he added, also suggesting that their militaries work more closely.

Trump’s tacit acceptance of the short-range tests could also have dire implications for the U.S. nuclear umbrella.

Murano said the nuclear umbrella is essentially based on the reliability of retaliation by the U.S. If Japan faced a nuclear attack from North Korea, the United States would certainly retaliate, the logic being that Kim would not choose to attack Japan if the U.S. retaliation was predictable.

“But what if [Kim] misunderstands that?” asked Murano, noting that his possession of an ICBM capable of striking the U.S. and Trump’s continued lack of criticism of shorter-range weapons could alter the calculus.

“This issue is based on the [Kim’s] perception, not on the U.S. president’s willingness to retaliate,” he said. “The more confident [Kim] is about his deterrent options, the more likely he is to misunderstand.”

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Heavy rains in western Japan trigger evacuation orders for around 847,000 residents

Torrential rain hit southwestern Japan on Wednesday morning, prompting local governments to instruct thousands of people to evacuate as rivers overflowed and at least two people were left dead in what the weather agency called an “unprecedented downpour.”

In Saga Prefecture, in the Kyushu region, JR Saga Station was flooded and a number of vehicles were seen submerged. Landslides were confirmed in the city of Takeo and rivers in Ogi and Imari overflowed, flooding nearby farm fields.

A man was confirmed dead after being found in a minicar that had been swept away by floodwaters on a road in Takeo, while another man was confirmed dead after escaping from his submerged light vehicle during flooding in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture, according to police.

A woman was feared dead after her light vehicle plunged into a flooded ditch in the nearby city of Saga, the police said, where a number of vehicles were seen submerged.

“It usually takes about five minutes to come to the station from my home, but (today) it took me an hour as it was difficult to walk in water up to my knees,” said Takaaki Matsuo, 56, in the city.

As of noon, Fukuoka, Saga and Nagasaki prefectures had issued evacuation orders to around 847,000 residents. The Meteorological Agency issued its maximum level 5 warning for floods and landslides in the region. The warning was lifted in the afternoon.

As landslides occurred and both the Ushizu River in the cities of Ogi and Taku and the Matsuura River in Imari burst their banks, Saga Gov. Yoshinori Yamaguchi requested the Self-Defense Forces be dispatched to provide disaster relief.

Kyushu Railway Co. canceled some services, mainly in the three prefectures that were severely affected.

“We are seeing unprecedented levels of heavy rains in cities where we issued special warnings,” weather agency official Yasushi Kajiwara said in a hastily organized news conference Wednesday morning. “It is a situation where you should do your best to protect your lives.”

He also urged those currently facing evacuation advisories to act before the warning was upgraded further.

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“Please don’t wait,” he said.

In the early morning, 110 mm of rain was recorded in the city of Saga and 109.5 mm in Shiroishi, Saga Prefecture, in a one-hour period, according to the agency.

For the 24 hours through 6 a.m. Thursday, the agency forecast up to 200 mm of rain in northern Kyushu and 180 mm in the Kanto-Koshin area, which includes Tokyo as well as Yamagata and Nagano prefectures.

Footage on local television showed rivers swollen by rainwater and parked cars surrounded by muddy brown water rising nearly up to the vehicles’ roofs.

In some parts of the affected areas, small landslides have already been reported.

Authorities regularly urge people to take evacuation orders seriously, particularly since disastrous heavy rains last summer in the west killed more than 200 people.

Many of the deaths were blamed on the fact that evacuation orders were issued too late and some people failed to follow them. Entire neighborhoods were buried beneath landslides or submerged in floodwaters during the disasters.

Major manufacturers with production centers in northern Kyushu suspended operations of their factories Wednesday.

Toyota Motor Co.’s factory in Miyawaka, Fukuoka Prefecture, halted production of auto parts for the Lexus luxury brand in the afternoon, while Canon Inc. called off the day’s operations at its digital camera factory in Nagasaki Prefecture, the two companies said.

The suspensions were aimed at securing the safety of factory workers, according to the firms, who both confirmed that the factories themselves had not sustained any damage from the heavy rain.

Other companies that saw operations affected include electronics giant Panasonic Corp. and major tire-maker Bridgestone Corp.

Logistics in northern Kyushu were also affected. Major shipping firm Yamato Transport Co. said deliveries were significantly delayed in Fukuoka, Saga and Nagasaki prefectures and part of Oita Prefecture on Wednesday. Japan Post also reported delays in deliveries of letter and packets.

Lukaku tells Sanchez: Milan ‘more elegant than Manchester’

Romelu Lukaku basically told Alexis Sanchez that Manchester is a bit of a sh*thole in comparison to Milan.

Sanchez is expected to join former United teammate Lukaku at Inter Milan this week after a breakthrough was found in negotiations over a loan deal.

Lukaku was one of few allies the Chilean had throughout his ill-fated Old Trafford spell, and the forward played a key part in Sanchez’s impending move to Italy.

The Daily Mail say the Belgian ‘had initiated numerous telephone conversations’ with Sanchez, practically ‘begging’ him to join him.

Lukaku informed Sanchez of ‘the beauty of Milan and the immediate impression the area has had upon him’.

He ‘sold the vision’ not necessarily of Inter themselves but of life in Italy, describing his new neighbourhood as ‘much more elegant and livable than Manchester’.

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Charming.

Former Man United striker teases Old Trafford return

Zlatan Ibrahimovic believes he could easily still cut it in the Premier League – and the self-styled lion would be ready to roar for Manchester United again was it not for his determination to lead LA Galaxy to glory.

It is 17 months since the veteran Swede left Old Trafford for the city of stars and the confident, larger-than-life striker has proven a big hit in Major League Soccer.

Ibrahimovic’s brace in Sunday’s thrilling 3-3 draw with rivals LAFC took his tally to 46 goals in 49 appearances – not bad for a 37-year-old, never mind one that had to fight back from serious knee ligament damage.

That injury in April 2017 brought an abrupt halt to a superb first season at Old Trafford, where his 28-goal haul included efforts in United’s EFL Cup and Community Shield triumphs.

Ibrahimovic would only make a further seven appearances before heading Stateside and the well-travelled striker continues to keep a close eye on a club he knows he would shine for.

“I could play easy in the Premier League, so if United needs me, I’m here,” he said with a grin in Los Angeles. “But Galaxy has me, so I’m sorry.

“Nah, I did my job in Europe. I enjoyed it, I have 33 trophies that I brought with me here and hopefully I can get something here.

“And then we will see where that adventure finishes.”

United could certainly have done with Ibrahimovic’s cutting edge at the weekend as Ole Gunnar Solskjaer’s side fell to a galling 2-1 home defeat to Crystal Palace.

“I look, I look, I look,” the striker told PA. “I saw the last game and I think they were unlucky.

“If they score the penalty, it’s a different game but a game in England is not finished until its finished.

“Anything can happen, especially in the last minutes where everything is in the heat of the moment.”

Bury’s battle ‘looking fairly positive’ as EFL deadline looms

Former Bury director Joy Hart believes the club’s battle to preserve their English Football League status is “looking fairly positive” with today’s deadline looming.

The League One club have been given until 5pm to secure their future, with current owner Steve Dale in talks with data analytics company C&N Sporting Risk over a potential takeover.

However, EFL executive chair Debbie Jevans has suggested that deadline could be extended if only “one per cent” of the deal remains to be completed.

Hart, who protested at Gigg Lane on Friday ahead of the original deadline, told BBC Radio Manchester: “It’s all looking fairly positive, but one can never tell until the final whistle, as my father used to say.

“I’m expecting anything, but hoping for the very, very best. The emotion is still raw. Your stomach turns over every morning that you wake up. We hope the EFL let us live for another 134 years. It’s very emotional.”

Jevans revealed that a dialogue between the relevant parties was ongoing on Sunday morning, with hopes high that an agreement can be reached after C&N demonstrated the necessary financial strength to pay creditors and cover the cost of running the club for the season.

Jevans told BBC Radio 5 Live’s Sportsweek show on Sunday: “If we get to 5pm on Tuesday in the board meeting and there is one per cent, it would depend what that one per cent is.

“What we’re not going to do is this cannot go on for weeks and weeks and weeks. We are not going to postpone any more matches and we see no reason why they cannot reach agreement by that time.

“There is enough time to do that, so I would just urge all parties to get around the table, which I know they are doing – as I said, we have been working already this morning on this – and that we’re in a place where Bury Football club can survive.”

Bury are yet to play a game this season having already been docked 12 points after being placed into administration by Dale, who bought the club for £1 in December.

However, buoyed by recent statements, fans are optimistic their side will be back in action against Doncaster on Saturday and have answered a call to arms to clean up Gigg Lane ahead of the potential fixture.

James Frith, Labour MP for Bury North, told Tower FM: “The deadline of 5pm today looms large.

“There’s a huge amount of work still to do in what is essentially day three of unravelling six years of mismanagement of the club, after very late engagement from the current owner, and an EFL deadline that recognises an extension was warranted but may yet prove to time us out.

“There’s huge amounts of complication on the structures of the debts and what’s been sold and who owns those debts, that’s where they’re at at the moment, which has itself implications for both the valuation of the club and also the liability of the new owners.

“The new owners are rightly cautious of signing blind on a deal that then renders the club unsustainable.”

 

Scopri il blocco in Val Lanterna

Sabato 27 e domenica 28 Settembre è in programma un meeting esplorativo nelle nuove aree boulder dell’alta Val Lanterna (Valmalenco – SO).

Sabato 27 e domenica 28 Settembre la Sala Boulder “Campo Base di Brugherio (MI) organizza Scopri il blocco: meeting esplorativo nelle nuove aree boulder delle Alpi Centrali.

Un raduno per scoprire le inesplorate aree boulder dell’alta Val Lanterna (Valmalenco – SO), dove i partecipanti potranno sbizzarrirsi a tracciare i loro passaggi sulle decine di massi della zona.
Durante il raduno verrà preparato un filmato dell’evento, foto e le cartine di queste aree che verranno scoperte per l’occasione.

QUANDO
Sabato 27 settembre – ore 13.00
Domenica 28 settembre

DOVE
Appuntamento nel piazzale di Campo Franscia (20 km da Sondrio via Valmalenco-Lanzada). In 10 minuti di auto si raggiunge l’area dei blocchi (inesplorati) di serpentino, già puliti e posti a quota dai 1600 ai 1900 metri.

PER DORMIRE
è prevista, meteo consentendo, la possibilità di campeggio libero con fuoco e grigliata nella zona dei massi.


Boulder a Campo Moro.

Scopri il blocco
Meeting esplorativo nelle nuove aree boulder delle Alpi Centrali

Campo MoroVal Lanterna
Valmalenco – Sondrio)
27 – 28 Settembre 2003

Organizzazione
Sala Boulder CAMPO BASE
Brugherio (MI)

info
338/3625451 (Patrizio)
333/2078643 (Irene)

www.campo-base.it
[email protected]
www.go-mountain.com/

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Coppa Italia Boulder a Core e Giulia Giammarco

Christian Core e Giulia Giammarco vincono l’ultima tappa della Coppa Italia Boulder dell’Aprica e si aggiudicano anche il Trofeo.

Quinto e ultimo turno della Coppa Italia Boulder dell’Aprica e valori in campo rispettati, senza sorprese: Christian Core e Giulia Giammarco sono i vincitori della tappa e della Coppa Italia Boulder 2003.

Core, da campione del mondo e ormai regolare “pigliatutto”, non si è lasciato sfuggire neanche la Coppa Italia 2003 con un percorso di 6 boulder risolti su 6 nella finale dell’Aprica che dà peso ulteriore alla sua vittoria. D’altra parte con uno score di 5 vittorie su 5 gare disputate (sulle 6 del circuito) c’è poco da aggiungere per fotografare il dominio assoluto del savonese.
Alle spalle di Core, all’Aprica, come nella classifica generale di Coppa, si piazza (con 5 problemi risolti in 11 tentativi nel turno di finale) un Georgos Progulakis che quest’anno ha affermatodi essere cresciuto e di poter continuare a crescere, anche e soprattutto con buone prestazioni in Coppa del mondo. Insieme a lui, nell’ultima prova, si sono distinti Paolo Leoncini (3°) e Gabriele Moroni (4°), sempre più l’enfant prodige dell’arrampicata italiana. Al 5° posto si trovano invece due vecchie conoscenze: Luca Giupponi e al 6° Cristian Brenna. Da segnalare nella classifica finale della Coppa il 3° posto di Alessio Deiana, il 4° di Alessandro Gandolfo e il 5° di Michele Caminati.

In campo femminile a Giulia Giammarco bastano tre gare vinte su 3 partecipazioni (ultima proprio quella dell’Aprica) per portarsi a casa la seconda Coppa Italia, e affermare la sua leadership. Alle sue spalle si classificano nella gara dell’Aprica Stefania De Grandi (seconda) e Claudia Salvadori (terza), mentre Giovanna Pozzoli è quarta. Quando si dice che alla fine tutti i conti tornano, questa è praticamente la stessa classifica del Trofeo con l’unica eccezione che il ranking finale vede Giovanna Pozzoli al terzo posto e Claudia Salvadori al quarto.

Classifica maschile
1 Core Christian G.S.FIAMME ORO
2 Progulakis Georgos EQUILIBRIUM – Modena
3 Leoncini Paolo ARRAMPICATA SPORTIVA RIVOLI
4 Moroni Gabriele B – SIDE – Torino
5 Giupponi Luca G.S.FIAMME ORO
6 Brenna Cristian FIAMME GIALLE GRUPPO SCIATORI
7 Giacomini Luca C.U.S. BOLOGNA
8 Munari Patricio LEZARD – Varese
9 Ghidini Stefano PLASTIC ROCK – Rovereto
10 Deiana Alessio KADOINKATENA – Genova
11 Gandolfo Alessandro MONKEY’S CLUB – Recco
12 Milani Alberto I RAGNI DELLA GRIGNETTA – Lecco
13 Scarian Riccardo FIAMME GIALLE GRUPPO SCIATORI
14 Preti Lucas LEZARD – Varese

Classifica femminile
1 Giammarco Giulia B – SIDE – Torino
2 De Grandi Stefania PLASTIC ROCK – Rovereto
3 Salvadori Claudia ARCO CLIMBING
4 Pozzoli Giovanna I RAGNI DELLA GRIGNETTA – Lecco
5 Gaggero Flavia KADOINKATENA – Genova
6 Longo Roberta U.S. PRIMIERO
7 Crasnich Paola A&F POLISPORTIVA – CIVIDALE
8 Annecchini Marina ECOLE VERTICALE – Roma
9 Pegon Elodie LEZARD VA
10 Aloi Laura CLIMBER’S CLUB – Foggia
11 Morandi Sara ARCO CLIMBING
12 Begnozzi Carlotta EQUILIBRIUM – Modena

1a prova Roma
2a prova Spiazzo Rendena
3a prova Bardonecchia
4a prova Genova
reports Coppa ITA 2003

dall’alto: Giulia Giammarco e Christian Core alla tappa di Coppa del Mondo di Rovereto 2003
ph Planetmountain.com

Coppa Italia Boulder 2003
quinta prova
Aprica

GIURIA
Maurizio Cattani, Franco Gianoli
TRACCIATORI
Loris Manzana e Mario Prinoth
ORGANIZZAZIONE
Società Climber Aprica

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Alexander Odintsov – intervista dopo la vittoria del Piolet d’Or 2004

Intervista al capo delle spedizione russa che ha ricevuto, dalla Giuria internazionale, il Piolet d’Or 2004 per la prima salita diretta della parete nord dello Jannu.

Quando, nel giro di incontri organizzato da Betta Gobbi della Grivel durante il Piolet d’Or 2004 , è arrivato il turno di Alexander Odintsov, l’impressione è stata di trovarsi di fronte ad un oggetto sconosciuto: l’alpinismo russo. Non tanto per il valore notevolissimo delle realizzazioni (come quella dello Jannu ad esempio) ma per lo spirito, le motivazioni e la “cultura” con cui i russi affrontano la montagna. Così, di comune accordo con Alexander, fin da subito abbiamo deciso di avere una conversazione diretta, senza tanti giri di parole. E’ stata un’intervista per certi versi spiazzante, ma alla fine una cosa forse sarà chiara a tutti: ognuno ha i propri sogni e ognuno ha un modo proprio per raggiungerli, occorre saperli leggerli, comprenderli e rispettarli, anche se si hanno idee e si praticano scelte diverse.


La vostra è stata la prima salita di una delle pareti più difficili. Vi siete posti il problema dello stile? 10 alpinisti, 50 giorni, corde fisse… la nord dello Jannu poteva essere salita in maniera diversa?
In trent’anni di storia, 25 team di tutto il mondo hanno cercato di salire la via diretta al pilastro nord dello Jannu: non ce l’hanno fatta. E si può essere certi che erano tra i migliori al mondo. Il nostro scopo principale era salire. Per farlo dovevamo scegliere lo stile migliore tenendo conto del livello mondiale dell’alpinismo e dell’obiettivo. Dei 10 alpinisti della nostra spedizione solo 3 non si sono fatti male, 7 hanno avuto problemi. E’ stata una guerra. Se fossimo stati un’armata di 5 persone, se la nostra armata fosse stata troppo piccola, avremmo perso prima ancora di riuscire ad arrivare all’ultima parte della salita, la più ripida. Se avessimo provato a salire questa parete in stile alpino avremmo dovuto vivere per un mese a 6500m. Nella nostra situazione, nella società mondiale degli alpinisti, tutti possono capire che era impossibile. C’erano due possibilità: o avere dei membri di un team estremamente forte, più forte della gente normale che arrampica, o ci si doveva muovere più veloci. Non esiste essere umano che riunisca in sé queste capacità. Non è possibile trovare un essere umano che possa vivere a settemila metri così a lungo, su una parete e delle difficoltà come quelle dello Jannu. Non è umanamente possibile

C’è stato un momento in cui avete pensato di non riuscire?
Noi abbiamo pianificato tutto per farcela, e fin dall’inizio non c’era problema che non avessimo previsto, perché avevamo tutte le informazioni di tutti quelli che prima di noi avevano cercato di salire la parete. Sapevamo tutto sulle difficoltà e le sfortune di tutte gli altri team che ci avevano preceduto. Ogni tentativo fallito aveva la sua spiegazione. In base all’analisi di queste esperienze abbiamo scelto il modo migliore per affrontare e risolvere il problema.

Avete pianificato tutto… però deve esserci un altro ‘segreto’. E’ stata la squadra, la volontà? Com’è successo che una squadra di 10 persone abbia potuto lavorare così intensamente, e in accordo, per raggiungere un obiettivo?
Siamo cresciuti in tempi sovietici, non siamo giovani. Noi normalmente siamo abituati a lavorare in team e lo scopo principale del team è l’obiettivo, l’uomo viene in secondo piano. Lo scopo di te stesso è in secondo piano.

Non ti nascondo che mi ha lasciato inchiodato alla sedia questa risposta.
Quando tu capisci che non ci può essere libertà in fondo anche questa è un certo tipo di libertà.

Spiegami meglio…
Se tu capisci che la libertà non è eterna. Che la libertà non può essere senza tempo e che puoi toglierti la tua libertà personale, tu diventi più libero di prima. Non pensi che le persone più libere siano i criminali? Perché loro hanno qualunque tipo di libertà, possono anche uccidere qualcuno…

Quindi il concetto è: per l’obiettivo ognuno decide ti togliersi una parte di libertà perché raggiungere quell’obiettivo dà una maggiore libertà per tutti.
Sì!

Grazie per aver affrontato il “problema” così sinceramente. Però mi piacerebbe sapere qualcosa sulla vostra gioia per aver raggiunto la cima…
Non c’è stata gioia. Perché quello che abbiamo patito di più è stata la discesa dalla cima.

D’accordo, lo capisco. Ma ti chiedevo la gioia del dopo, al campo base…
Eravamo talmente esausti che non c’è stato tempo di gioire: dovevamo andare a Kathmandu. E lungo la strada abbiamo incontrato i maoisti e ci sono stati dei problemi. Durante tutto il tempo della spedizione, e anche prima di tornare a Mosca io stesso mi sono sentito molto “chiuso”, compresso nel mio cuore. Penso che ciò che abbiamo fatto l’abbiamo digerito, realizzato, solo due o tre mesi dopo… Tu sai cos’è un sogno?

Sì, posso immaginare cos’è un sogno…
La Nord dello Jannu era un sogno per tutti, per tante generazioni di alpinisti, i migliori del mondo. Questo significa che anche per noi questo sogno è stato raggiunto. E ora? Cosa succede alle persone raggiungono il loro sogno? Sono scontente. Che cosa si farà dopo?

Dopo questa risposta mi vien da pensare che se storicamente provenite da un’educazione sovietica, d’altra parte siete anche figli di quell’anima russa trasmessa dalla grande letteratura russa…
La mentalità sovietica e la cultura russa sono in contrasto tra loro… Ma certo quello che dici è vero.

Un’ultima domanda: gli alpinisti russi sono forse tra i pochi che riescono ancora a soffrire e quindi a raggiungere grandi mete?
No, tutti gli alpinisti sono pronti a soffrire, qualunque sia la loro nazionalità. La differenza tra i russi e il resto del mondo è che noi siamo più organizzati. Per esempio, immaginati un team con Huber, House, Humar e così via, sarebbe una squadra eccellente ma ciascuno di loro non è pronto a rinunciare a qualcosa della propria personalità.

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IXX Valtellina Orobie di scialpinismo a coppie

Il 4/01/2004, ad Albosaggia Val di Non (SO), si disputerà la IXX edizione della della ‘Valtellina Orobie’ gara di sci alpinismo a coppie organizzata dalla Polisportiva Albosaggia, 2a prova della Coppa della Alpi centrali.

Domenica 4 gennaio ad Albosaggia (SO) è in programma la 19a edizione della ‘Valtellina Orobie’ gara di sci alpinismo a coppie organizzata dalla Polisportiva Albosaggia. La competizione, che si svolge in una delle patrie dello scialpinismo agonistico italiano, è valida come seconda prova della “Coppa delle Alpi”, ed è aperta anche ai giovani atleti delle categorie Cadetti e Juniores. Il dislivello totale della gara per la categoria Senior è di oltre 1.600 metri.

Percorso Senior. Partenza loc. Campelli (1300m), salita alla Cima Meriggio (2350m), discesa alle baite del Meriggio (2050m), salita alla Cima Campagii (2450m), discesa al Lago delle Zocche (2060m), salita alla cima Meriggio dal canale sud-ovest (2350m) e discesa finale all’arrivo in località Campelli.

Percorso Giovani. Partenza località Campelli (1350m), salita alla Cima Meriggio (2350m), discesa alle baite del Meriggio (2050mt), salita alle Baite Casera (2100m), salita al Dosso Piada (2200mt) e discesa finale all’arrivo in località Campelli.

Programma valtellina Orobie
4 gennaio 2004

 ore 8,00
Ritrovo concorrenti c/o palestra comunale di Albosaggia, Via Coltra.

 ore 9,00
Partenza gara in località Campelli – Albosaggia

 ore 14,00
Premiazione gara c/o il ‘Matador Café Latino’

Calendario COPPA ALPI CENTRALI 21.12.03 Giro Valle del Bitto Valgerola Skyrunner Rally 04.01.04 Trofeo Valtellina Orobie Polis. Albosaggia Sq. 11.01.04 Trofeo R. Maffeis CAI Gazzaniga Sq. 18.01.04 Trofeo Monte Guglielmo CAI Marone Rally 25.01.04 La nuova Rampegada Sci Club Pezzoro Ind. 01.02.04 Trofeo Pellicioli-Nembrini GAN Nembro Sq. 08.02.04 Trofeo Presolana CAI Clusone Rally 15.02.04 Trofeo Valtartano Pro Loco Valtartano Rally 22.02.04 Trofeo Pizzo Tre Signori A.S. Premana C.I.Rally 07.03.04 Trofeo Ing. Remedio S.C. Bovegno Sq. 22.03.04 Trofeo Pizzo Scalino Sportiva Lanzada Sq.

www.polalbosaggia.it

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