The Nose e il tentativo di Dobrinskiy e Gelmanov

Video dei russi Pavel Dobrinskiy e Rustam Gelmanov e il loro tentativo a ripetere The Nose in Yosemite, USA.

The Nose, non è un segreto, è una delle più famose e ambite vie del mondo. Per tutti, anche per questi due russi che l’estate scorsa, dopo un primo periodo a Indian Creek per imparare a salire le fessure offwidth e abituarsi a piazzare i friend, si sono recati nella Yosemite Valley per salire la via delle vie. I due non sono riusciti nell’intento di ripeterla in libera – come hanno fatto soltanto Lynn Hill e Tommy Caldwell – per via del freddo in parete, ma l’ambizioso progetto non era senza fondamenti:  il primo è l’espertissimo alpinista Pavel Dobrinskiy, mentre il suo compagno di cordata era niente meno che Rustam Gelmanov, il vincitore nel 2012 della Coppa del Mondo… Boulder!

SCHEDA: Arrampicare nella Yosemite Valley – 5 vie classiche

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Eiger Parete Nord, Paciencia per MacLeod e Muskett

I due climbers britannici Dave MacLeod e Calum Muskett hanno ripetuto la via Paciencia (8a, 900m) sulla parete nord dell’Eiger.

Dave MacLeod, noto soprattutto per le sue pericolose vie trad e difficilI vie di ghiaccio e misto in Scozia, ha appena salito la sua prima via lunga nelle Alpi: la difficile via Paciencia sulla parete Nord dell’Eiger, assieme al giovane gallese Calum Muskett.

Paciencia era stata aperta tra il 2001 e il 2003 dagli svizzeri Ueli Steck e Stephan Siegrist, e poi liberata dai due nel 2008 con difficoltà fino a 8a. La via disegna una linea dritta sulla Rote Fluh NEL lato desto della parete nord. Seguendo una serie di placche lisce, è caratterizzata da difficoltà sostenute e continue che avevano spinto David Lama, dopo la prima ripetizione nel 2011 assieme a Peter Ortner, a dichiarare: “raramente ho salito una via cosi impegnativa.” Una via di spessore insomma ed un bel banco di prova per chiunque.

MacLeod e Muskett sono arrivati a Grindelwald all’inizio di agosto e dopo aver trasportato tutto il materiale e i viveri per tre giorni alla base della parete hanno provato i primi tiri difficili per avere un piccolo “assaggio” delle difficoltà prima di scendere a valle. Poi i due britannici sono ritornati e hanno ripetuto la via con tre bivacchi in parete. Entrambi hanno salito tutti i tiri in libera, a volte alternando capocordata e salendo tutti i tiri difficili in stile rotpunkt. Dopo la salita Muskett ha commentato “Paciencia è una sfida incredibile, una big wall nelle Alpi che dovrebbe essere sulla lista di tutti i climbers che hanno le capacità per ripeterla.”

Paciencia, Rote Fluh, Eiger
Prima salita: Stephan Siegrist, Ueli Steck 2003.
Prima libera: Stephan Siegrist, Ueli Steck 2008
6b, 6a, 6a+, 7c, 7c, 7a, 8a, 7a+, 6b+, 6a+, 6a+, 2, 7c, 7c+, 7b, 7a, 6a, 7a+, 7c, 7a, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6c+

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273 idee per la Ricostruzione del Bivacco F.lli Fanton sulle Marmarole (BL)

Per il concorso di idee per la ricostruzione del Bivacco F.lli Fanton sulle Marmarole (BL) indetto dal CAI di Auronzo sono stati presentati 273 elaborati.

Ben 273 sono gli elaborati giunti al concorso di idee per la ricostruzione del Bivacco fratelli Fanton, gara bandita dalla Sezione CAI di Auronzo, in collaborazione con la Fondazione Architettura Belluno Dolomiti e con il sostegno di AKU trekking & outdoor footwear, del Consorzio Bim Piave e del Comune di Auronzo di Cadore.

Il numero consistente di partecipanti denota il particolare interesse per il tema e il tipo di procedura adottata per questa gara fra professionisti dell’architettura in alta quota. L’aspettativa degli organizzatori è che questa iniziativa possa essere di stimolo per realizzare costruzioni in alta quota con l’uso di tecnologie all’avanguardia, nel rispetto dell’ambiente e della sicurezza.

Entro il mese di marzo la giuria esaminerà gli elaborati e sceglierà le 3 migliori proposte che saranno pubblicate sul sito ufficiale www.fabd.it. Al vincitore, oltre all’affidamento della progettazione definitiva ed esecutiva del Bivacco, andrà un premio di 6000 euro, al secondo 2500 e al terzo 1500. Tutti i progetti in concorso saranno esposti al pubblico in una mostra che sarà allestita in primavera.

Dopo 50 anni di attesa, sembra ormai vicino il momento per il Bivacco fratelli Fanton di ritornare nella posizione pensata in origine, vicino ai principali itinerari escursionistici e alpinistici nella zona di forcella Marmarole a 2660 metri di quota.

AKU trekking & outdoor footwear appoggia l’iniziativa per la progettazione del nuovo Bivacco fratelli Fanton, nella duplice prospettiva di sostenere la fruizione escursionistica consapevole della montagna e dall’altro di condividere con CAI e Fondazione Architettura Belluno Dolomiti l’impegno nella ricerca di soluzioni progettuali per ridurre l’impatto sul paesaggio. Maggiori informazioni sulle iniziative di AKU per un agire responsabile sono disponibili sul sito www.aku.it.

12/12/2014 – Bivacco F.lli Fanton sulle Marmarole, il concorso di idee per la ricostruzione
Il punto della situazione sul Concorso di idee per la ricostruzione del Bivacco F.lli Fanton sulle Marmarole (Bl), che prevede come data finale della consegna degli elaborati il 23 gennaio 2015.

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Liverpool extend Oxlade-Chamberlain’s contract until 2023

Liverpool midfielder Alex Oxlade-Chamberlain is keen to make up for lost time having signed a contract extension.

The 26-year-old, who made just two appearances last season after being sidelined with a serious knee injury, has agreed a deal which, PA news agency understands, will take him up to 2023.

Oxlade-Chamberlain, who moved to Anfield from Arsenal in the summer of 2017 for £35million, has already made more appearances this campaign than he did in the whole of the previous one.

“I feel like I missed out on a year, which I obviously did, so it’s really exciting for me to be able to sign,” he told liverpoolfc.com.

“It’s something that I feel is an opportunity to give that year back and make up for lost time – and hopefully put in some good performances to make amends for not being around last year.

“You’ve got to count your blessings every time you get an opportunity like this, you don’t get the chance to play for Liverpool Football Club every day.

“I am really excited to be able to extend my time here.”

Oxlade-Chamberlain had finally found his form when his season was prematurely ended by a knee injury in a Champions League semi-final first leg in April 2018.

He has already shown signs of reaching those levels again in his three appearances this season and he is keen to return to top form.

“I hope that I can do some special things like I did before I got injured and, most of all, be a part of this group of players that go on to hopefully win more things,” he added.

“I’m really excited to see what the future holds for us all and I look forward to seeing them every game moving forward.

“I can promise the supporters that I’ll give them absolutely everything moving forward.

“There might be times where I have bad games and good games and moments where it’s not so good, but I’ll always work through those moments and give my everything to correct them and keep pushing this team forward.”

Manager Jurgen Klopp paid tribute to the midfielder’s attitude during his recovery period.

“We all know Alex’s story since he came to the club, and yes there have been disappointments as well as highs, but what has impressed me and everyone is his attitude to dealing with setbacks and his character,” he said.

“That’s why none of us were ever in any doubt about him fighting his way back in the way he did. To see him play almost the whole game at Southampton on Saturday was such a positive moment for all of us, especially him.

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“Now he is no longer injured, he is fit and he can kick on and show once again just how good he is. But there is still a lot of hard work on that road.”

Away from the first-team squad, Liverpool have abandoned existing plans for the redevelopment of Anfield in favour of a more ambitious project.

The club had outlined planning permission, due to expire next month, to expand the Anfield Road stand by 4,000 seats to lift the ground’s capacity to over 58,000.

However, with the demand for tickets still outstripping supply, those plans have been shelved – planning permission will be allowed to lapse – as Liverpool consider a grander scheme which would take the number of seats beyond 60,000.

The club remain committed to the redevelopment but now want to consider a scheme which pursues “a vision in keeping with the club’s aspirations”.

“The progress that has been made during ongoing feasibility studies has resulted in us being in a position to allow the outline planning permission to lapse,” said chief operating officer Andy Hughes.

“We are committed to working with local residents, planning officials and others as we now focus on the detail behind any proposed redevelopment for Anfield Road.

“Throughout this process we have been clear that our objective is to find the best possible solution for Anfield Road and that remains the case.”

Liverpool completed a £110million rebuild of the Main Stand at Anfield in 2016 which raised the capacity by 9,000.

 

Kompany’s role changes at Anderlecht after worst start in 21 years

Vincent Kompany will concentrate on playing football for Anderlecht and will no longer be player-manager during match days.

The former Manchester City defender has taken charge of four league matches this season – playing in all four too – drawing two and losing two, which is the club’s worst start to a league campaign in 21 years.

The likes of Samir Nasri, Nacer Chadli and Kemar Roofe all joined in the summer as the Belgian side looked to improve on their sixth-placed finish last term.

Belgian newspaper HLN claims that head coach Simon Davies will now take charge of tactics on the day of games so that Kompany can concentrate on playing.

“Kompany must be more a player during the match,” said Davies.

“He must be able to really lead the team on the field. Of course no one doubts that he can, but it is important that he is merely one of the players during the match.

“So, together with my staff, I will take on the tactics next to the field. Because you can plan some things in advance, surprising things always happen during a match. I take that on me.”

Davies added: “Look, we are looking forward to it. To the players who fit best in our system and philosophy, but also to the right framework next to it,” he said.

“We all only get to know each other fully and find our way in this new situation. That is how we came to this decision. The team needs stability, let that be clear.

“However, Vinnie loves the club so much that he always wants to give everything for Anderlecht. Every day.

“This should allow us to work more efficiently and more result-oriented. On competition days, Kompany will only concentrate on the match. The club can only reap the benefits of that clearer hierarchy.

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“I also want to emphasise that this is not really about me or ‘Vinnie’, but about Anderlecht and its fantastic supporters.”

 

Man Utd ‘offer former Spurs striker a two-year contract’

Manchester United have offered a contract to former Tottenham striker Fernando Llorente, according to reports in Italy.

The Red Devils sold Romelu Lukaku to Inter Milan this summer without bringing in a replacement with Ole Gunnar Solskjaer placing his trust in players already at the club.

However, United are still lacking a striker in the same mould as Lukaku with rumours before the transfer deadline that they could sign Juventus’ Mario Mandzukic.

And now Gazzetta dello Sport (via Sport Witness) claims that United are very interested in ex-Spurs target man Llorente.

The Spaniard is still a free agent after being released by Mauricio Pochettino at the end of last term.

And the report adds that United have ‘contacted’ the 34-year-old and offered him a two-year deal at Old Trafford.

The Red Devils have a limited pool of free agents to choose from with Wilfried Bony even mentioned as a possible option by Gazzetta dello Sport.

 

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Japan defense white paper to concede North Korea has miniaturized nuclear warheads, report says

TOKYO/BEIJING – Japan has upgraded its estimate of North Korea’s nuclear weapons capability in an upcoming annual defense white paper, saying it seems Pyongyang has already achieved the miniaturization of warheads, the Yomiuri newspaper said in an unsourced report Wednesday.

That compares with the assessment in last year’s report in which the government said it was possible North Korea had achieved miniaturization, the daily said without citing sources.

The report, to be approved at a Cabinet meeting in mid-September, will maintain the assessment that North Korea’s military activities pose a “serious and imminent threat,” the Yomiuri said.

South Korea’s 2018 defense white paper, released in January, reported that North Korea’s ability to miniaturize nuclear weapons “appears to have reached a considerable level.”

According to South Korean media reports late last year, the South Korean intelligence agency told lawmakers that North Korea had continued to miniaturize nuclear warheads even after the Singapore summit between U.S. President Donald Trump and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un in June 2018.

At that time, North Korea committed “to work toward complete denuclearization of the Korean Peninsula” and destroyed some tunnels and buildings at its Punggye-ri nuclear test site.

But a second Trump-Kim meeting in February collapsed without an agreement, and North Korea has since resumed missile tests.

American officials have concluded for years that North Korea had likely produced miniaturized nuclear warheads. A leaked report by the Defense Intelligence Agency in 2017 concluded that North Korea had successfully produced a miniaturized nuclear warhead that can fit inside its missiles, according to The Washington Post.

In last year’s defense white paper, Japan said “miniaturizing a nuclear weapon small enough to be mounted on a ballistic missile requires a considerably high degree of technological capacity,” and that “it is possible that North Korea has achieved the miniaturization of nuclear weapons and has developed nuclear warheads.”

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Also Wednesday, North Korea voiced its eagerness via its state-run media to continue developing and testing new weapons while accusing the United States of seeking confrontation through joint military drills with the South.

“There can be no constructive dialogue while confrontation is fueled,” the Rodong Sinmun, the mouthpiece of the ruling Workers’ Party of Korea, said. “We have to develop, test and deploy powerful physical means essential for national defense.”

The remarks by North Korea’s most influential newspaper came a day after the United States and South Korea ended their joint military exercise that started Aug. 5. Pyongyang has denounced such drills as a rehearsal for an invasion.

North Korea has repeatedly launched projectiles, including what appeared to be short-range ballistic missiles, off its east coast since July 25, in protest against the latest U.S.-South Korea joint military exercise.

The moves came despite Trump’s revelation earlier this month that he received what he called a “beautiful” letter from Kim. Trump said Kim expressed his desire in the letter to hold more summit talks following the end of the military drill.

North Korea is scheduled to convene the second session of its top legislative body this year on Aug. 29. All eyes are on whether Kim will make a speech at the legislature to announce his policy of how to proceed with denuclearization negotiations with the United States.

At their June 30 meeting at the inter-Korean truce village of Panmunjeom, Trump and Kim agreed that Washington and Pyongyang would resume stalled denuclearization talks within weeks, but they have yet to take place.

Chelsea ‘move strongly’ for 16-year-old Spanish starlet

Chelsea are looking to sign 16-year-old Spanish youngster Pedri from La Liga 2 side Las Palmas.

The Blues are currently under a transfer ban after being punished by FIFA for breaking rules around signing foreign players under the age of 18.

But this does not seem to have dampened their resolve to target the top young talent from across Europe.

The young midfielder has been attracting attention from the ‘great clubs of Europe’ many of whom were ‘marvelling at him’ in Gran Canaria last weekend, according to a Radio Marca Lanzarote report.

Barcelona are also said to be front-runners for Pedri’s signature, keen to land one of the ‘great promises’ in Spanish football before his value skyrockets.

With Las Palmas in something of a crisis, it is thought that they would be willing to accept a fee in the region of €10million.

Chelsea would not be able to register Pedri until next summer, but an up front payment and a loan deal back to Las Palmas could be one that suits all parties.

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Man Utd don’t need £80m Maguire to be better than Van Dijk

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Harry Maguire fee
Interesting article yesterday about Harry Maguire, to which I would like to offer a Manchester United fan point of view.

Over the years, I have grown less concerned about transfer fees. Let’s be honest: there’s no such thing as a reasonable fee paid for any player at any level – it’s all exorbitant and ridiculous spending really. The only time I really get interested in transfer fees is in the context of our reported budget, i.e. if the fee we pay for for one player hinders us from being able to sign another player we also need. Harry Maguire signing for £80m is ridiculous but really speaking it’s no more or less ridiculous than Virgil van Dijk at £75m, or Neymar at £200m, or even £800k for Steve Bruce back in the day. I think people are far too hung up on fees these days, something I have also been guilty of in the past, but it’s all about context really. The only things that United need concern ourselves with are:

Is he better than the players we already had? On previous evidence there’s really very little concern in this regard; for both Leicester and England he has shown that he is a talented player quite consistently. It’s very early days in his United career but the signs suggest that he is, having played well in his first two matches and seemingly formed a reasonable understanding with both Lindelof and Shaw next to him. We’ll see more how that develops in the next few months and years, but he’s off to a good start.

Does he fit how we want to play? I would say quite obviously yes. He seemed to be one of only a very select number of players we wanted for that position, alongside maybe only Koulibaly, so he must fit the profile. From an observers vantage point, I would say he ticks the boxes: calm under pressure in possession, good in the air, good passing game are all things that Jones and Smalling weren’t.

Could we afford him? Again, obviously yes. At the start of the window then I would think it was reasonable to assume that there was at least in the £150m mark to play with and we subsequently brought in about £70m + recovered wages (which might even go up a bit more if Sanchez leaves this month). So again, this wasn’t really a concern.

All things considered, I don’t really care too much how much he cost us if he plays well consistently. His transfer fee won’t really dictate whether he’s a success – only his performances will. If he turns out to be bobbins then, sure, you can say it was a waste of money but that would still be the case even if he’d cost £8m. It would be different if we had gone and signed someone like Neymar for £200m or something, and clearly broken our financial structure, if he had then turned out to be utterly useless because then you’re saddled with an expensive mistake that will continue to cost you into the future (Alexis Sanchez, anyone?); we didn’t go beyond our means because £80m was within our budget, so the finer details of his price don’t really matter.

When I watch him play I’m not thinking “£80m player”, I’m just thinking “United player”. It definitely doesn’t matter to me how much we paid or whether or not he turns out to be better than Van Dijk because we don’t really need him to be; we only need him to be better than the players he has replaced and at least equal to the attackers he faces.  I certainly won’t be counting the pennies any time he makes a mistake; Phil Jones has taught me the fultility of that particular exercise.
Ted, Manchester

 

Let’s just enjoy Maddison
So F365 publish an article the other day slating Simon Jordan and Karen Brady for their words on Daniel Sturridge quite rightly. They don’t know him and as was said people within the game really respect and him and Klopp who has managed him for the last 4 years has said nothing but good things about him.

So it was to my great surprise that today I see an article from Seb Stafford-Bloor doing the exact same thing to James Maddison.

“It’s easy to criticise him. It’s also easy to interpret the way he looks and how he carries himself as an accurate reflection of who he is. As a bit brash, a bit obnoxious. Is that fair? Only people who actually know him can answer that, but it’s actually part of what makes him alluring. Jeremy Clarkson may not like it, but Maddison looks the part. He struts his way through warm-ups and has that confidentdemeanour on the pitch which makes him seem like a star in waiting”

So you don’t know the guy at all but to you he is “arrogant” and “struts around” in a warm up. Almost everything I’ve seen on him says he’s hard working and really wants to make the best of himself. He back’s himself but what footballer at the top level doesn’t?

Theres about as much consistency here as the handball rule for attackers and defenders.

Lets enjoy watching Maddison develop with starting the rumours of him being difficult and being the new David Bentley.
Chaz (Essex)

 

Why would you sign?
Question to the mailbox. I’ve kind of seen a pattern arise for players who sign for Barcelona or Real Madrid, and I was wondering what the mailbox thinks. Often, the clubs will go all out to court, tap up, and basically blow smoke up the backsides of any player they want, especially young players. Obviously, they have the prestige, any young player probably dreams of playing for them since picking up a joypad to play Fifa or Pro Evo, but how many of those players end up used, abused or discarded?

I’d say for every Ronaldo, there is a Dembele. Players who’s development takes a hit because the seductive idea of being a major signing for the world’s biggest clubs supersedes this. I think of Sancho at Dortmund, who has recently signed a new contract in spite of offers from United and PSG, and I think he has been smart. If Real really want him, or one of the other superclubs, they will have to make him a record signing. And unless you are a record signing, you will never have the club truly back you. Basically this is a round about way of asking, if you were a great young player, what club would you want to play for, and why? Even as an Arsenal fan, I’d want to go to either Dortmund, Southampton, Ajax, or Liverpool. Those are the clubs that seem to be properly nurturing talent IMO.
John (TRAITOR) Matrix AFC

 

Holloway
I am sitting here stunned, and in absolute awe, of Ian Holloway’s brexit/VAR comments.

I’m not going to call it the stupidest, most Brexity thing ever said – but for anyone who doesn’t know how football’s rules get changed, please google ‘IFAB’ and take a look at how its membership and rules are structured.
Joe Donohoe

 

While I was campaigning for Remain in the referendum back in 2016 I was told by a man looking not dissimilar to the esteemable Ian Holloway that all of us Remainers were traitors, as the EU had invaded the Falklands.

This is their world, we just live in it.
Tim Sutton

 

VAR was inevitable
How many times have you watched a match and an exchange, between commentators or in the studio, like this happens?’I think he might have handled that/fouled etc’
*watches frame by frame, zoomed in replay*

‘Yep, he has. I can’t believe the ref hasn’t seen it’

You get the gist. Technology has been used for so long as a stick to beat the ref with. And whip up the masses when a result hasn’t gone your way. This is one of the reasons why we have Var now, because of the constant outcry against a miniscule offence that you only spotted because it was reviewed several times, from several angles, at 1/10th speed. And then bitch and moan that the refs necessary snap judgement can be wrong. With that consistent level of undermining going on from fans, pundits, ex pros etc, Var was inevitable.

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Anyway my question is this, for people opposed to Var, if you were told that Var would be scrapped but, to protect refs, incidents could only be reviewed from their viewpoint (or as close as possible) at full speed and only once, would you agree to it?
Kev (it’s the linesmen I feel sorry for)

 

Is this the year that Barcelona get ripped to shreds in La Liga and The Champions League?
The average age of this current 2019/20 starting 11 is 28.7yrs, that’s including the youngster De Jong and Griezmann, who is no spring chicken anymore at 28yrs old.

They have an aging Piqué, Busquets, Rakitic & Suárez, all over 30yrs of age (Messi is 32, but I think we can all allow him some leyway for being the football Messiah).

Add to that Démbélé being injured, Malcom sold to Russia and Coutinho loaned to Champions League rivals Bayern, and this team have a serious lack of pace. I think Valverde could be on borrowed time. Gone by Christmas is my bet.

(Anyone know how to type Rakitic with a c accent..?)
Kireca

 

One more about the pundits
Phil Neville claims that footballers should get off social media due to the ridiculous abuse they get online.
But one thing that feeds this type of abuse is the overly strong opinions expressed by pundits towards certain players.
Could Phil speak to Gary and ask him to take a chill pill?
Ryan

 

Slimani joins Monaco on season-long loan from Leicester

Leicester striker Islam Slimani has joined Monaco on loan for the rest of the season.

The 31-year-old, who became the Foxes’ record signing when he arrived for a reported £29million from Sporting Lisbon in summer 2016, scored just 13 times in 46 appearances for the club.

He spent the second half of the 2017/18 campaign on loan at Newcastle, where he played four times without scoring, before another unproductive loan last term at Turkish side Fenerbahce.

Slimani has had some joy on the international front, however, helping Algeria win the Africa Cup of Nations earlier this summer.

He will now link up with Monaco and could make his debut for the Ligue 1 side at home to Nimes on Sunday.

 

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